size of replacement blocks on 1/96 model

Unfortunately there's no simple answer to this question. The rigging of a real sailing vessel contains hundreds of blocks in at least a dozen sizes. Replicating all of them in a model probably isn't practical, but a well-rigged model has several different sizes of blocks. As a practical matter, the three or four smallest sizes in the Bluejacket line will yield a pretty convincing model. How many of each size depends on how much rigging the model's going to have.

As a general guide, a block that's a foot long is a mighty big block. The ones that come with the Revell kit are definitely on the big side. I'm a big fan of Bluejacket blocks, but be warned: working with the smaller sizes of them takes some time and some practice. The holes in the 3/32" ones frequently have to be drilled out, and the grooves around them have to be cleaned up. In my opinion the results justify the effort - and the considerable expense. Here's a link to some photos of my model of the Continental frigate Hancock, which is rigged almost entirely with Bluejacket blocks and deadeyes:
http://gallery.drydockmodels.com/album194 .

You really need a good set of plans to do this job. Good sources are Bluejacket, Model Shipways, and the Smithsonian. (The Revell kit is based on the plans by George Campbell that the Smithsonian commissioned.)

Two Golden Rules of ship model rigging: 1. If in doubt regarding line or block size, err on the small side. 2. If in doubt regarding line color, err on the dark side.

Hope this helps a little. Good luck.

jtilley,
That helped quite a bit. The model of the Hancock you built is truly inspiring.
I am not quite to the rigging stage on the Constitution yet, but I think I will order some of the hardware from Bluejacket and see how I like working with it. I do not like the plastic blocks or deadeyes that come with the plastic kits, and that makes the finished project somewhat disappointing to me when I finish them.
I am not in a hurry to finish this kit in any way so the time, and expense, of using the better hardware are easily justified by having a better looking model when I am finished.

Thank you once again,
Greg

GregSS - Many thanks. Sounds like you're going into your Constitution with an intelligent attitude.

One tip: if you want to replace the deadeyes, it would be a good idea to make the decision fairly early. The lower deadeyes - the ones attached to the channels - are most easily attached before the channels are fastened to the hull. Also - if you rig the shrouds to scale with deadeyes and lanyards, the plastic channels will come under a considerable amount of stress. (For a channel to break loose when you've almost finished the rigging is embarrassing at best.) It would be a good idea to reinforce the channels with steel pins or something similar, preferably shoved in from the inside of the hull.

Also - throw away the plastic eyebolts that came with the kit. They won't take the pull of the rigging lines. It's easy to make replacements from wire. You can make them any size you want. If you've got a set of twist drills, #60 - #80, they make excellent mandrels for forming eyebolts. (If you don't have a set of twist drills, I strongly advise getting one.) Brass wire makes good eyebolts. Bend it around the drill bit, twist the ends into a pigtail, and snip it off at whatever length is convenient. If the wire is too stiff to bend into a tight enough curve, heat it over a candle first.

Good luck. It's actually an excellent kit - a fine basis for a serious scale model.

jtilley,
I had not thought of those thin plastic channels. Excellent point. I am going to have to think on a good way to reinforce those.
I completely agree on the eyebolts and have already made some from piano wire bent aound a tiny stainless pin. I made a nice small fixture for doing this so that I can make them any size and length necessary.
As for the shrouds, and am going to try my hardest to make them to scale and tied properly. As I mentioned earlier, I am in no great hurry, and would rather have a proper model later than an improper model sooner.

Thank you for all the advise, I am sure I will ask more questions as time goes on!
Greg