Plastic display case paranoia

To avoid this problem................? don't glue it, screw it! I screw mount or thread mount (depends on the model) all of my kits that are going to be on a display base. For 2 reasons first, the glues won't come loose as they age and there is no squeese out of other mishap to damage the outside surface; second, it allows me to remove the model for a repair if needed. If your ship is up on pegs replace the kit pegs with hollow tubes with hull profile filed into then (just like the stand) and now you can run screws up through them and into the hull.

1:700 scale Perrys are almost all waterline. You shouldn't have to file the shape of the hull into mounting pegs.

What you need to do is epoxy some hardware nuts into the bottom cavity of the hull to receive a bolt up through the base.

What, you cemented the bottom plate onto the hull without planning ahead. You are scr*wed now!

Ship modelers should always plan their mounting method in advance by planning for a pedestal or waterline mount. This includes provisions for mounting hardware early in the construction phase - before adding details which will be crushed by a later addition.

If you have not cemented a the bottom plate on, go to the hardware store and buy some nuts & bolts. Epoxy in place.

If you have cemented the bottom in place and you want the model to be removable from the base, drill an appropriate sized hole in the bottom plate.. Carefully thread a nut into the hole. Be careful to not strip threads which are being cut into the plastic by overtightening the bolt. the model will be removeable, but you want to limit the number of times it is removed from the display base to limit the chances of stripping the threads.

Knowing the person I am building this for, the model is NEVER going to be removed.

I am concerned about the possibility of the drying superglue and/or plastic cement vapors fogging the inside of the display case.

mfsob,

You will need to wait to "seal" the case if you use super glue.

I've done 3 waterline ships and I didn't paint the bottom plate so I could use plastic cement to attach the hull to the base. Yeah, there are better ways as others have said. One of the things about modeling I've read for years is, if you had all your good ideas up front, you'd never learn anything.

I've had sucess with waiting a day or so after gluing before sealing the case. I put the case cover over the base, but I use something to hold the cover off the base to allow air to flow. I haven't had any crazing using this method.

One question though. Have you considered how you're going to fix the case cover to the base? I use white glue. It will hold the case cover on, but it can be removed. You can clean any excess glue from the case cover with water.

Best of luck.

Mike

Thanks, Mike ... I had not even thought about sealing the case lid to the base! But as she has cats, that might be a very good idea.

I'm going to let everything dry for a couple of days before I put the lid on for good, just to be safe. I don't want to have to fool with this thing once it's done!