If I were you I'd be inclined to leave these lines off for the time being. The writers of Heller instruction sheets (who pretty clearly had virtually no understanding of how to rig a ship model) tended to recommend installing various lines like these early in the construction process. When I'm building a model like that I don't like to install rigging that early. It gets in the way of subsequent work, and the chances of it surviving for the several months I'll be working on the hull and deck structure are pretty slim.
If it turns out that these things are supposed to represent iron or steel railings, you can represent them with stiff brass wire (or even piano wire) later. If they're rope and supposed to be slack, you can glue eyebolts into the holes and run the line between them.
Incidentally, reproducing slack rigging line on normal ship model scales is a big challenge. Thread doesn't act like rope in that respect. (Stretch a piece of thread out between your hands. Then move your hands together a few inches and watch what happens. The thread will not assume a catenary curve - that is, it won't sag like a piece of rope would. You can scale down the diameter of a piece of rope to 1/200, but you can't change the effect of gravity.) The truth is that in the normal operation of a sailing vessel hundreds of lines hang fairly slack, but most modelers don't represent them that way. It's a modelers' custom to rig them all taut. A few people who work on very small scales - the aforementioned Donald McNarry comes to mind - rig their models entirely with wire, and shape it into realistic curves. That's a technique that takes enormous knowledge and years of experience; I can't do it.
Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.