Deck to hull

Jeff Herne wrote:

I usually try to avoid attacking the deck, but once in awhile I have to in order to attach it. :-) Some kits have decks that fit better than others. I've never had trouble with Tamiya decks, but had a tough time with the North Carolina's deck on the Trumpeter kit. What kit are you specifically having problems with? Chances are I've built (probably more than once) and can offer some advice. Basic advice is to fit the deck prior to gluing it. I'd also recommend using a welding agent like Tenax or ProWeld. Typically, I start at the bow, fit the deck piece, and apply a bead of ProWeld to the seam using a Touch-n-Flow applicator. This also gives time to make an minor adjustments as I go. Once that's set, I'll add the center section of the deck and repeat the process, paying more attention to the deck joint across the beam instead of along the deckedge. The deckedge seams are far easier to clean up than across the planked deck. After fitting the rear deck section, I'll focus on the seam at the joint instead of the fantail, again, it's easier to address those than the deck joints. The key is to test-fit everything at least twice before you apply glue, and to start at one end of the ship and work your way aft, or forward. I also can't stress how much easier it is when you're using a Touch-n-flow with a welding agent. Jeff

It seems to happen on any ship that is 1/350 or larger, the worst case was with the 1/144 (I think) Lindberg USS Melvin, which is supposed to be attached with screwes. I also had problems with the Heller 1/400 Bismark which had some gaps between the hull and the deck in the  front and back that just took  A LOT of carful sanding and filler.

Interesting question, because my first two ship models were 1/700 resin kits and there was no deck/hull joint to worry about, it was all one piece. I didn't know how good I had it until I tackled a 1/700 plastic kit, with the two hull halves and the deck pieces (6, if I remember correctly). After trying to glue the hull halves together with regular plastic model cement, and inventing some new permutations of venerable old swear words in the process, I went back to the "long settting" CA glue, which gave me about 45-60 seconds to get each piece right. It was't very elegant, but it worked.

I usually try to avoid attacking the deck, but once in awhile I have to in order to attach it. :-)

Some kits have decks that fit better than others. I've never had trouble with Tamiya decks, but had a tough time with the North Carolina's deck on the Trumpeter kit.

What kit are you specifically having problems with? Chances are I've built (probably more than once) and can offer some advice.

Basic advice is to fit the deck prior to gluing it. I'd also recommend using a welding agent like Tenax or ProWeld. Typically, I start at the bow, fit the deck piece, and apply a bead of ProWeld to the seam using a Touch-n-Flow applicator. This also gives time to make an minor adjustments as I go. Once that's set, I'll add the center section of the deck and repeat the process, paying more attention to the deck joint across the beam instead of along the deckedge. The deckedge seams are far easier to clean up than across the planked deck. After fitting the rear deck section, I'll focus on the seam at the joint instead of the fantail, again, it's easier to address those than the deck joints.

The key is to test-fit everything at least twice before you apply glue, and to start at one end of the ship and work your way aft, or forward. I also can't stress how much easier it is when you're using a Touch-n-flow with a welding agent.

Jeff