Imai carrack build

Hello Rod,

Bob here. Now I am jealous. I couldn't for the life of me get my Hull to look like that. I love the shading.

I am now stopped on my SM as I am still awaiting my books. I want to add or correct any parts before I add anything else. There was some information I found about the Nina ship which has caused me to rethink how I will detail this model. :)

My Pamir is now in the bathtub getting an oven cleaner bath. Seems some poor slob just didn't know how to paint and screwed the hull up. I am still pounding him in the skull.

I do have other things to work on. I am working on learning CAD. I am planning on doing a veeeeeerrrryyy slow build on the Nautilus Sub. To do this right, I will edit some CAD files Ihave of her to get some parts just right. I wanted to learn this program for a while so here is a chance.

I am keeping busy, 2 ships and AutoCAD. give me a few hours and I will have all of this figured out. I meant decades.

Plese keep the photos coming. I am particularly interested on how you will go about this.

Robert

 

Bob

Thanks for nice comments.I didn't know if anyone would be able to view the pictures or not.Donnie from the group gave me instruction on how to post pictures,but some how I errored.I'm not a computer genius.

On this hull to get the look I wanted.First I sprayed the whole hull with Model Master acryl "Wood" paint.Let that dry.Than I took Burnt Umber artist oil in a tube.Put a dab of that in a small cup and then mix it with Turpenoid.This is kind of like Turpentine but dosen't have the strong odor.I make a wash out of it than just start brushing it on the hull.Now I do keep a dab of the Burnt Umber off to the side that I don't thin down.when I want a little darker area I'll put a lttle bit of non thinned oil paint in.What's nice about artist oil paint is you have time to go back over and either thin or darken and area.After that hull has dried for at least 24 Hrs.I take MM acryl flat coat and mix it with Future floor wax about 33% Future.I spray the hull with that let dry for 24 hrs again.I take a mechanical pencil and lightly draw in the caulking lines.Since almost all Plastic ship models have nails on the hull in the molding I highlight them with the pencil.Because after I use the mechanical pencil I go back and give it anothe coat of flat with Future.And to me it kind of makes the nail heads look like treenails to hold the planks on.Its more of and effect for me than anyone else.Depending on the effect I want I'll now  dry brush on more Burnt Umber than dry brushing on lighter shades of oils and acrylics.You just have to keep at it till you get the look you want.Than when all done give it another coat of flat and Future.

I'll get more photos as I go.I'm not a fast modeler so hang in there for more.I'm also doing a Hansa Cog right now and I'll send some Photos soon.

Rod

Hope you are not offended, but I thought I would post your image link so that you can see what I done.
Donnie
The only problem is that you can not see what I typed. I did write you another email about this.

Rod,

Please do keep the pics coming.

As for the images, on the forum they are not visible. I had to go to the link to view it.

For posting a pic here, you need to have the link look as below

[img.]http://photobucket.com/albums/c189/rmillard/th_000_0020.jpg[/img.]

without the . in the brackets eg.

[img]http://photobucket.com/albums/c189/rmillard/th_000_0020.jpg" border="0" />

Well, at lest I hope so.

Robert

 

 

Eh Rod,

 

Don't listen to me. I can't seem to get it to work either. But it looks like Donnie just did.

Darn, I thought I had it too. I will have to work on this.

Robert

millard wrote:

http://photobucket.com/albums/c189/rmillard/th_000_0020.jpg[img.] Taking a Imai Santa Maria kit and making into a 1400's Carrack I've cut the hull to make a water line version.using artist oils for the wood look.Thought I'd send some build pictures. Rod

I cannot get the link to work. However, I guess the IMAI ship you are speaking of is at scale 1:60, right? I sometimes see the IMAI "Santa Maria" on ebay.

How much did you pay for the kit? Last time I saw it on ebay they wanted $60 for the kit. Is such a pricey tag reasonable?

Regards,
Katzennahrung

Rod,
when you do your link, type this in exactly like I have it. I think I saw where you had some "periods" in your link. Study the link below very carefully and do it just like I have it. In case you are wondering how I posted the link is that I created this IMAGE in my paint program.

Click on the YELLOW Square and it will get larger !!!
Donnie

Here the cannon's are in place.The picture isn't very clear.I lashed the gun to carriage per Ian Hogg & John Batchelor book "Naval Gun" I didn't put the handing rings on the breech because you wouldn't really see them under the deck very well.

Here's the model with decks in place.I'll post a close up picture later.I was asked what I paid for this kit.I have several Imai kits and I buy at my price.This kit was less than $35.00.When I go to model contest, yard sales,and on EBAY I look for good buys on sailing ships.And I have enough kits that I can wait till I pay what I want to pay.

My great thanks to Donnie for working me through this picture process. I still have things to figure out but I'm getting there.Again thanks

Rod

Looking down on the main deck.With the windlass and rails.

Rod,

I see that you are doing some scratch building on items which were mentiond in Powells articles. Great!

I found some dowels here in Taiwan. I may have to shave and sand a bit more jut at least O can get rid of the plastic masts and spars.

Here is a question for you. In Powells articles he mentions mast wedges. It looks like you are using them. In my SM there is a block where the main mast is to "sit" on. (Can't find my darn camera) it is in the same place as your photo but it is square. Roughly 11mm per side and 1.5mm tall. I have found 2 wooden dowels 1 is 11 mm in Dia and the other at 15mm. I am thinking of either 1: drilling a hole large enough for the larger dowel to sink into and totally remove the square block. the other option is to use the 11mm dowel and wrap it in a mast wedge. Do you think the latter alternative will work or should I go for it.?

I finally got the hull and main deck together. Just sanding smooth and getting ready to use flat black on the bottom of the hull.

Please do keep the pics coming. I will try to post mine but am very embarrassed now seeing what you have been doing. You mentioned you are a slow builder, looks to me as if you are whipping through this. I am so slow, the paint dries on the brush as I move the brush from the bottle to the model.

Adios,

Robert

 

Bob

 I would use the 11mm dowel and add wedges it will look better.On my model they are already on the deck part of the molding.Also if you noticed my gunports are round.Like Powells article stated square gun ports didn't come till much later.The Imai model came this way.I almost always change my mast and yards out to wood.They rig a lot better.If a plastic mast comes in two halves so I can put a Brass rod up through it then I'll use it..Good luck

Rod

 

Millard,
you are welcome on the picture ordeal. Looks like you are getting the hang of it - grat looking ship you got there too !

One tip is that when you take your picture, go ahead and upload your picture with the largest image. Lets say about 600 pixels x 400 pixels.

Then the photobucket and FSM will figure out the rest !   What will happen is that FSM will load a picture automatically that is small version ( kinda like what you have here, about 400 x 200), however, when you click on your image, a larger image (600 x 400) will appear giving forum members the chance to see the image larger.

Donnie

Hello again,

I think I will go with the idea of a 11mm dowel. I still ahve the problem of the corners of the square base sticking out. I may try to jury rig the base to cover these up, but I am not sure if I can do it. If all else fails, I will get out a few tools Hammers, axes, etc. and cut the corners down.

I wish my boks would get here so I can start to carve the masts. I am not sure how the mast looked on the SM. Was it the same as the Nina?

This brings up the problem with the basket (crowsnest). I am ow going to have to make this by hand as well.

Don't you just love the OOB models. all you need is some glue and maybe paint. geez. What ever happened to just heating up the styrene over fire, press the melting plastic to where you want the piece to go and voila, a model. (OK I was 8 or so at that time)

I am now woring on the final detail painting of the SM. will post pic when done.

Robert