Scratchbuilding details for a u-boat, help wanted.

Thanks Grauwolf, and others, i didn't realize that the u-99 was a later version of the VIIB. I was pretty confused about that, i couldn't understand why i was finding so much contradicting info. For simplicity's sake in dealing with the coning tower, i think i'll stick to modeling Gunther Prien, as it would be hard to find the resin AM kit, even tho i like how the later version looks. Thanks for the refernce and help with material choices, i'll definatly take note of that. Seeing as i don't have a drivers license yet, all i have to do now is get a ride to the hobby shop and then to the model train shop. i'll keep you guys posted when i start building. I'm just trying to get everything i need first, before i start

Hello again,


So here is the site.

http://hanshansa.piranho.de/

It is German but the photos is what you are after.
Go to the site......click on an area of the u-boat and
what follows is the most amazing collection of interior photos
of a Type VII u-boat!

Enjoy and have fun building the interior!

Hello Sawdeanz,

Nice project you are undertaking, you will have lots of fun!
I will not go into all the brass and styrene bits because the
others have said it quite complete.

I will give you some assistance on  a technical note instead.

The Revell U-47 kit represents a Type VII B in its early configuration. This tower although a little off
in measurements, correctly depicts the original tower as seen on the Type VII A and the early VII B.
The aft portion of the tower comes together to form a point and sweeps out from top to bottom.
The 2cm flak is in the right location as these boats carried this weapon mounted on the deck. You
also have to add a hatch between the flak and the tower (in place of the"button") to represent the
watertight ammo locker. If you are modelling Gunter Prien's boat then the tower is basically
correct, just add detail.

The later VII B, as in U-99 saw some modification to the tower. You will find that the tower in
the Revell kit U-99 correctly depicts this type. The main difference was that a circular platform
was added and the flak was moved up onto the tower. There was also modifications to the air
intakes. When looking at the Type VII B (late) you will notice that the tower now sweeps in-
wards from top to bottom. This is correct for the late VII-B tower. There should also be an air intake
duct which is faired in with the attack periscope housing.

So depending on which boat you model, use the towers accordingly and yes the Westwood book
is excellant for all other references. You may also want to refer to:

The Type VII U-boat .... Robert C.Stern
The U-boat in Action ..... Robert C.Stern Squadron Signal Publications

All excellant reference.

Hope this has been of help, have a nice day and happy modelling!
Joe

PS I will link to an excellant site with lots of interior photos. I will get back to you on this later.

You've certainly picked a challenging subject, but I think that if one is willing to spend the time, almost anything may be achieved.  Obviously to fully address your question would take a book, but here a few quick tips.

• As for materials, you local hobby shop should have Evergreen sheet styrene, from which you could scratch build almost anything.  To get started, a package of 0.040, 0.020, and 0.010 should see you though with plenty left over and each package should only be a couple of bucks.
• The cut straight edges, get a small steel ruler.  I got an Exacto triangle for about five bucks which not only gives me a straight edge, but a 90 degree right angle as well
• To cut, I use my Exacto knife with a No.11 blade, but I actually draw it backward, so the tip gouges out an extremely narrow channel.
• For gluing, I find that Testor's thin liquid brush-on cement works excellently and causes the least mess.
• CA glue is also handy, though I typically use it to more to strengthen existing joints and to work as filler. 
• Try not to kill yourself on complex shapes.  Any complex shape can be made by some combination of simple shapes.  If you need to make a thick block, you can laminate thin sheets together.
• If you need something curved, you may be able to bend a thin sheet, or alternatively laminate pieces together to form a block, and sand away what you don't want.

The main thing to remember is to be creative and have fun.  Good luck on the project!

Andy

When you go to the model railroad hobby shop for the HO scale brake wheels - also get some N scale brake wheels.    The HO ones might do for things like rudder & plane controls, but are likely much too large for the water & compressed air isolation valves which were scattered throughout the ship.  Also pick up various sizes of brass wire - Detail Associates poly sleeve pack with a beige label

While there, or in your local hobby shop, look for Evergreen rod, strip, and sheet styrene.  Plastruc styrene is also good.   Plastruc makes an ABS plastic which does not cement well with typical plastic cements.   Plastruc also makes various valve fittings for archetectural models.

Use sheet Plexiglas (1/4 & larger) to make various sized boxes.   Rough csaw to shape and sand to final shape.  I use a disc sander to get square corners.