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Rigging the Kearsarge

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Rigging the Kearsarge
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, February 25, 2006 8:10 AM
I'm working on the 1:96 USS Kearsarge kit by Revell AG.

This is my "baptism by fire" for rigging.  One major hurdle is to rig the lines suspending the lifeboats.

There are about six lifeboats, each hanging from a crane (sorry for my ignorance of the proper terminology) and passing through two pulleys to either the aft or the stern end of the lifeboat.  So each lifeboat requires six loops of line of identical size.  The entire kit requires therefore 36 loops of line all of identical size in order for all the lifeboats to be suspended exactly horizontally and exactly at the same elevation as all the others.

So far, my ability to tie these very small loops has been disastrous. If I can tie them at all there is no similarity between one and the other in size.

So how can I ensure that all 36 are the same size? Do any of you folks have any secret tools or hints? I was thinking of buying some wire and twisting it closed rather than trying to tie the thread which comes in the box.

Any suggestions very much appreciated!
jim

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Monterey Bay, CA
Posted by schoonerbumm on Saturday, February 25, 2006 10:19 PM

Here's one approach....

Loop the line and cross the ends, leaving 'tails' on both ends. Take a small, size 00 'nymo' line (available at bead or craft shops in a variety of colors - less than $2.00 for a bobbin) and lightly tie a slip knot (half hitch) around the 'joint' in your loop, and then a second slip knot on the other side, just tight enough to hold the joint together, but allow the tails to slide. You can then adjust the length of the loop to what length you need. (Use tweezers on the slip knot, holding the leads, to push the knot against the tail that you are pulling) Then simply tie the loop tails over the slip knot when you get the length you need, glue and trim the tails. Roll the loop to move the knot to the most inconspicuous place.

Alan

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." Benjamin Franklin

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Saturday, February 25, 2006 11:02 PM

I haven't seen that kit in a long time, so I'm not sure just how the instructions tell you to rig the boats.  It sounds, though, like Revell has tried to simplify the rigging of boat davits and, in the process, has (a) created a rigging system that doesn't make sense, and (b) actually made the job more difficult than it needs to be.

The rigging of boat davits actually is pretty simple - though it's a little tricky to explain without the help of a diagram.  It varies a little according to the size of the boat, but the principle is the same.

The rigging at each end of the boat is identical, so let's just talk about one end.  There are two pulleys (usually called "blocks" in nautical-speak), one hooked to an eye on the end of the davit and the other hooked to an eye in the bow or stern of the boat.  (If you're using the blocks that came the kit you'll probably tie them to the davit and the eyebolt in the boat, rather than hooking them.)  The upper block (the one on the davit) has an eye (called a becket) on its lower end.  (The Revell kit, if I remember correctly, contains single-sheave blocks with beckets on one end and on both ends.  You want one with two beckets for the upper block, and one with a single becket for the lower block.)  The line (called the boat fall) is secured to the lower becket on the upper block.  It then runs down through the sheave in the lower block, back up and through the sheave in the upper block, then inward to some point where it can be reached by a sailor on the ship's deck.  I seem to recall that the davits of the Kearsarge have little cleats molded into them - about halfway up.  The davit fall gets wrapped around the cleat three or four times in a figure-8, and what's left over (quite a few scale feet) is coiled up neatly and hung over the cleat. 

When it's time to lower the boat, the boat crew scrambles over the ship's bulwarks and into the boat.  Two guys on the ship's deck, one at each davit, cast off the falls and ease them off, causing the boat to descend gently into the water.  When it's afloat, the sailors in the boat unhook the lower blocks and the boat goes on its way.

Those "loops" described in the instructions don't make sense.  They'd keep the boat from moving up and down.  Nineteenth-century seamen were rational beings.  They set up the system in such a way that it was easy to adjust the falls, so the boats would hang level and at the same height.

A convenient, reasonably quick way to deal with this problem on a model is to rig the tackles before mounting them on the ship.  Pin the two blocks to a piece of something or other (this is one of the few places where balsa wood comes in handy in serious ship modeling), the correct distance apart.  Rig the tackles, then pull out the pins and tie the blocks to the davits and the boats.  Belay the ends of the falls and you're done.

One small - unsolicited - suggestion.  That kit, if I remember right, uses plastic parts to represent just about every fitting on the ship - including the blocks and eyebolts.  Revell blocks aren't the greatest, but they aren't bad - they're certainly superior to the ones in Heller kits.  But unless you enjoy the sound of breaking plastic, it would be an excellent idea to junk the plastic eyebolts and replace them with metal ones.  The ship model fittings suppliers sell preformed brass eyebolts,  but it's ludicrously easy - and quick - to make your own.  You'll need a length of brass or copper wire of an appropriate diameter, a candle, and a steel mandrel of some sort.  (If you've got a set of drill bits, #60 to #80, they'll work great.  You can make eyebolts of lots of different diameters.)  Put the mandrel (drill bit, piano wire, or whatever) in a vise.  (If you don't have a vise, hold the mandrel with a pair of pliers.)  Soften the wire by holding it over the candle for a minute.  Then bend the wire around the mandrel and twist the ends into a "pigtail."  Once you get the hang of it, you can turn out eyebolts faster than one per minute.  Super-glue them into the appropriate holes in the model, and you'll be spared the frustrating experience of having your eyebolts snap at crucial moments.

Hope that helps a little.  Good luck.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 26, 2006 12:54 PM
jtilley-
simple to you maybe!  I haven't tried this for many years,so your advice is very much appreciated. Hopefully as I gain experience I can think of some of these techniques myself.
thanks much
jim

  • Member since
    July 2009
Posted by Publius on Sunday, August 23, 2009 6:20 AM
Jtillley, One small comment on your excellent answer. It seems from the original photos that the blocks for lowering the lifeboats are double sheaves to add more mechanical advantage to lowering the heavy boats. Correct? I'm going to try and model this and do whatever I have to do when I run out of blocks. Also the Revell Germany davits have no cleats. I made little ones out of sprue, but placing them is tricky because dimensions are pretty cramped on the original ship. I also reshaped the lateral bumper beams to resemble the 1873-4 version of Kearsarge I'm trying to do. I'm going to try posting photos when I get back to California. Thanks, Paul

How does this work?

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Sunday, August 23, 2009 9:28 AM
It's entirely possible that the Kearsarge's davits were rigged with double blocks.  As Publius points out, those are big, heavy boats - especially if they have men in them.  I'd have to study some pictures before commenting on the configuration of the cleats.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Netherlands
Posted by Grem56 on Sunday, August 23, 2009 1:06 PM

Check this thread:

/forums/952215/ShowPost.aspx

There should be photo of the davits here that gives you an idea how to rig them,

Julian

 

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  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Monday, August 24, 2009 5:10 PM
 Hey Jtilley , you are right on as usual. My wooden model of the KEARSARGE has double blocks for the boats and even specifies that you use them. It states that because of the weight of the boats plus the two crewman ,it would require double blocks to handle them safely !! The cleats on my davits are on the back (inboard )  surface of the davits as rigged .I hope this helps a little .     tankerbuilder
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