W.E.M. Bismarck PE sets - Need tools

A gadget callled the "Hold and Fold" has been getting a lot of attention lately.  It looks like a first-rate tool, but it's pretty expensive.

I personally don't do enough work with photo-etched parts to justify the expense of a Hold and Fold.  One tool I have found extremely useful for the purpose, though, is a pair of tweezers with wide, squared-off ends.  They're great for folding metal parts, and for handling them and putting them in position on the model.  Such tweezers are sometimes carried by good model shops; they can also be found in virtually any store that caters to stamp collectors.

Get the hold & fold,  You've got a lot of p.e. to fold. It will make life much easier, the different double and triple folds will come out much straighter (and faster too).  Another tool for simple folds that will get used a lot is a smooth jawed square nose plier.  A (very) sharp pointed nose tweezer. Razor blade for folding the p.e. when its in the hold & fold and cutting from the fret.   3X magnifying glasses from wal-mart, lotsa super glue and your ready to go.  Check out the techniques forum and tool forum too.   Sounds like fun..........             g.l.

Hi Scott,

Ah, so you have the PE sets. Good ! Now begins your journey.

I also have to highly recommend the Hold n' Fold. I use it myself and would not be caught folding PE without it. Like it also was suggested, you will need a single edge razor blade to make the fold. I find that some of the tiny parts are best folded with tweezers. I have several ranging from flat headed to very sharp pointed ones. The smaller, the better. I tend to look for the word "micro" when looking for PE tweezers. One that I find is of particular use is a pair of micro pointed tweezers that have a 90 degree bend to them. The flat spot along the top is usefull for bending the really small parts. The bend also makes it easier for getting into tight places. I think I got it at Squadron.com, but I'm not positive. But, they should be available most anywhere I would imagine.

Remember what I told you before, if things don't seem to be going well during a particular PE session, just walk away. Some days you'll be wondering why you never though of doing this for a living, and other days you will be wondering why you ever took up this hobby in the first place.

Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress !

Ted

 

Thanks guys, I'll get my hands on the Hold n' Fold and gather up some good tweezers etc.  I'm really looking foward to learning some new skills. 

espins1 wrote:

Thanks guys, I'll get my hands on the Hold n' Fold and gather up some good tweezers etc.  I'm really looking foward to learning some new skills.

Scott,

Are you all set on the glue you will use to attach the PE ? If you already have a favorite, go ahead and use that. If not, I would suggest a super glue called "Zap A Gap" in the medium thickness. MicroMark sells it, but I think it is also available in hobby shops. That's what I use. The thinner glues tend to bond too quickly, not giving you enough time to position correctly. With the Zap A Gap medium you have about 5 - 10 seconds. Doesn't sound like much, but sometimes it's too much when you get that perfect placement of a PE piece and you have to hold it there until the glue bonds. Sometimes it seems like not enough time, sometimes it seems like an eternity. (Remember what I told you about good days/bad days)

Oh, and if you work with super glue, it's always wise to get some debonder as you will occasionally glue your fingers to the parts and each other. A bottle of accellerator is not a bad idea either.

These are just my personal preferences. Go with whatever you feel the most comfortable with.

Ted

 

Excellent suggestions Ted!  I don't work with PE much, so that's great advice. 

I'll hit up my LHS in the morning and pick up some Zap A Gap or equivalent, along with the other goodies.  I'm really looking foward to building these Bismarcks. 

oz1998 wrote:

Are you all set on the glue you will use to attach the PE ? If you already have a favorite, go ahead and use that. If not, I would suggest a super glue called "Zap A Gap" in the medium thickness. ...<SNIP>

Let me suggest an alternative for the initial task of securing the PE.

Go to the craft shop (Michaels, Hobby Lobby, MJ Designs, Moores, etc.)  and get some Aleene's Tacky Glue.  This is a white glue,  much like a thick Elmer's glue.   It grabs and holds the part in place yet allows you some time to reposition the part.  It is water soluable, so that if you need to remove a part you can do so easier. 

Put a pin point dab of glue on each end of a railing run and every 1/2 inch or so along the length and place the part.  Since it grabs quickly you don't have to hold it long.    When it drys, go back with some thin CA on the tip of a needle and run a bead of glue along the base of the rail to firmly secure it to the deck edge.    When complete an overall shot of clear flat kills the shine of the white glue and CA.

Other tools:

Go to the hardware store (Ace, Lowes, Home Depot) and get a pack of single edge razor blades.  These will help you make straight bends with that Hold-n-Fold you are going to buy.  You can also make bends between two opposed razor blades & save on the H-n-F.   Drill bits or wooden dowels from the hardware store are good tools for bending curves around.  Pick a bit which is slightly smaller to allow for the natural spring-back of the brass.

While there -- get a 4x4 inch piece of white tile to cut the piece from the fret.  Use a #10 Xacto (round) blade and cut with a rocking motion like a paper trimmer.  You can use a #11 (straight) blade but the tip WILL break the first time.   Cutting on  a hard surface gets you a cleaner cut.  If you cut on paper or a self healing mat the cut tends to bend into the surface.  You can also cut on a piece of glass.

Walmart's beauty department sells a cuticle nipper by LaCrosse.  This is much like a pair of fingernail clippers except the blade is straight and the bevel is on the inside of the jaws.  You can use these to clip larger parts from their frets and to remove left over fret nubbins. 

Sally Beauty Supply sells fingernail polishing boards in various grits.   I think my last purchase was 39 cents each for some 4-way files.  Use these for fine removal of the fret nubbins

EdGrune wrote:

Let me suggest an alternative for the initial task of securing the PE. Go to the craft shop (Michaels, Hobby Lobby, MJ Designs, Moores, etc.)  and get some Aleene's Tacky Glue.  While there -- get a 4x4 inch piece of white tile to cut the piece from the fret.

Thanks Ed. I'm going to try that Aleene's Tacky Glue myself.

Scott: My Hold N' Fold came with 3 black plastic tiles for cutting the PE on. It also came with an assortment of dowels for bending curves. I think it may have been the "deluxe" version, so make sure what is included when you purchase it.

 

Ted