The propeller almost certainly would have been bronze. I rather suspect the hoisting frame would have been bronze too; the big advantage of that material, of course, is that, though it's not as hard as iron, it doesn't rust. It's rare to find anything made of iron below the waterline of a wooden ship.
You've found the "shroud and ratline assemblies" (or, as Revell used to call them, "pre-formed ratlines") all right. As you can see, they're fit only for the trash. If you do a search on the word "ratlines" in this forum you'll find quite a few posts that deal with the subject of how to rig them. The gist of it is that ship modelers over the years have come up with two reasonably effective ways of doing it: the "clove hitch method" and the "needle-through-the-shroud method." In either case, you'll need two tools: a fine-tipped pair of tweezers and a small, sharp pair of scissors. (An X-acto knife will do if necessary, but scissors run less of a risk of cutting a line that they shouldn't.)
The clove hitch method is the more accurate - and, as I think virtually everybody would agree, better looking. Rig the shrouds (the vertical lines). Cut a piece of stiff paper to fit just inside the shrouds, between the channel and the masthead, and draw a series of lines on the paper, 1/8" or 5/32" apart. (The reference books quote spacing distances of between 12 and 15 inches for ratlines.) The lines on the paper are your guide to the spacing of the ratlines. Take a handy length of the finest black thread you can get your hands on, and tie one end of it to (assuming you're right-handed) the left-hand shroud of the gang, using a reef knot (known to the Boy Scouts as the square knot). Then tie it to the next shroud using a clove hitch. (Describing how to tie a knot verbally is next to impossible, but you can find a picture of a clove hitch on any of several websites or in any book on ship modeling. It's one of the simplest of knots to tie.) Keep going till you get to the last shroud, and tie the ratline off with another reef knot. Allow a little slack between the shrouds, so the ratlines droop realistically. Put a tiny drop of white glue on the first and last knots, and when the glue's dried snip off the excess thread.
I always encourage folks to at least give the clove hitch method a try - and don't discard it till you've given your fingers and brain a fair chance to learn it. (Say, five or ten ratlines.) The human hand has an amazing ability to learn maneuvers like that, but it does need a little time to do it. Ship modeling is full of short but steep learning curves. My guess is that the first ratline will take you ten to fifteen minutes, and leave you in need of a break. Sit back, take a deep breath, imbibe some of your favorite beverage, and try the next one. I'll bet it will take you seven or eight minutes. By the time you get to the top of the mast you'll be rigging one ratline per minute - and wondering why people make such a fuss about ratlines. Many folks who've stuck it out report that, by the time they finished rigging their models, they found "ratting down" a thoroughly satisfying, and even relaxing, activity. My personal custom is to use it as an excuse to listen to an audio book on my little workshop stereo system.
If that method does turn out to be a little much, though, try the "needle-through-the-shroud" method. Rig the shrouds and set up your paper spacing guide as before. Then run your ratline thread through the eye of the smallest, sharpest needle your local sewing store can sell you. (Beading needles also work well for the purpose.) Shove the needle right through the right-hand shroud, then through the next one, and so on, being careful (of course) to follow the line on the paper. When you've gone through all the shrouds in the gang, put a tiny drop of white glue on the first and last ones, let the glue dry, and snip off the excess. This method is a bit quicker than the other, and if executed carefully can yield good, neat results.
The other obvious option is to leave off the ratlines altogether. Their absence will be quite noticeable on a model this big, but if it's your first in the genre you may well decide to leave ratline rigging till next time.
The Alabama actually isn't a bad subject for learning this sort of thing. (Certainly better than the Revell Constitution or the Heller Soleil Royal, on which so many beginners insist on cutting their teeth.) The Alabama has relatively few shrouds (hence fewer knots), the scale is reasonably large, and her top hamper is pleasantly uncluttered. There's plenty of space between the masts, and the rest of the rigging, being relatively simple, doesn't interfere obnoxiously with what you happen to be working on at the moment.
I do seem to recall one inexplicable oddity of the kit. It is, of course, a modified version of Revell's slightly earlier U.S.S. Kearsarge. Most of the changes between the two kits made sense, but one didn't: the omission of the deadeyes for the fore and main topmast shrouds of the Alabama. There should be a second set of shrouds on each of those masts, complete with their own pairs of deadeyes, running from the tops (the semi-circular platforms at the heads of the lower masts) to the topmast heads. My poor old memory may be playing a trick on me here, but I recall pretty clearly that the Alabama kit, though it recycled the Kearsarge's tops (complete with the slots for the deadeye assemblies), omitted the deadeyes themselves - and the topmast shrouds and ratlines were missing from the awful "preformed ratlines" sheet. This makes no sense whatever; there's no doubt that the Alabama had topmast shrouds. Something to think about when you have to cross that particular bridge.
I'll take the liberty of offering one other suggestion. In the context of a model like this, a 1/16"-diameter drill bit is enormous. If there's a respectable hobby shop in your neighborhood, pay it a visit and pick up a pin vise and a set of hobbyist's drill bits, #60 through #80. They won't cost much, and they'll come in handy for all sorts of things.
Good luck.