Cutty Sark upper exterior hull color

Well, that certainly isn't how I'd go about painting a "black" hull. It seems particularly pointless in the case of the bulwarks, which, in reality, are painted sheet iron.  So far as I know the Cutty Sark has always had a black hull - with the exception of her years under the Portuguese flag, when she apparently was "port painted."

Mr. Campbell's plans indicate "black topsides."  He says the main rail (the one that forms the base of the bulwarks, running below the freeing ports) originally was varnished teak, "later [he doesn't seem to know exactly when] painted white."  The two upper rails, which form the top and bottom of the wood "topgallant bulwark," are indicated simply as "varnished teak." 

If I remember correctly, the instructions in some of the Revell kits call for a white stripe along the top of the metal sheathing.  Wrong.  It should be copper (or Muntz metal colored) from the keel to the waterline.

Eyebolts come in many sizes, depending on the load that's going to be put on them.  The diameters of the eyebolts are among the very few things that aren't spelled out on the Campbell plans.  A good general-purpose wire size might be .015".  That's about an inch and a half on the scale - a pretty hefty piece of iron bar.  Some of the most important eyebolts (e.g., the big ones in front of the foremast, to which the main and main topmast stays are secured) probably would be bigger - maybe .020" or .030".  This is a place where photos would come in handy.  There are some on the ship's website (though they seem to have been selected for their artistic value more than the information they convey), and lots more in various books. 

To make the brass wire bend more easily, heat it over a candle for a few seconds.  Then bend it around a mandrel of some sort; a twist drill bit clamped in a vise works quite nicely.  Twist the ends together in a short "pigtail," and snip of the ends leaving 1/4" or so excess.  Shove both ends through a hole in the deck, spread out the ends, and superglue them to the underside of the deck.  That eyebolt will not come loose.

Thank You as always , John.  I'll make notes of this.

BTW  the intructions do also call for that white stripe at top of metal as you mention.

jtilley wrote:

If I remember correctly, the instructions in some of the Revell kits call for a white stripe along the top of the metal sheathing.  Wrong.  It should be copper (or Muntz metal colored) from the keel to the waterline.

Depends on what period of time you are modeling her in, as there are photos of her with a white stripe at the waterline after her restoration in the 1920's . 

In Longridge's book he states that old square-rigger men told him that they were sometimes required to take one of the ship's boats and polish any exposed copper sheathing, if they were idle in port with nothing else to do.   It is not clear if this was ever the practice on Cutty Sark, but he does suggest that a model of her could be displayed with with the bulk of her bottom in a weathered or oxydized state and the top one or two strakes in a bright condition.

I guess I inadvertantly misspoke, in that I didn't make it clear that I was just quoting Mr. Campbell's plans.  It seems that the uppermost strake of the sheathing was indeed painted white at some point in the ship's career.  Mr. Campbell's plans are only intended to show how she looked when she was built.  (In a few cases, Mr. Campbell freely admits that he's not sure.  The original working drawings of the ship, according to one of the notes on his plans, don't include the teak deckhouse aft of the mainmast.  He does assert, though, that he's found evidence that the deckhouse was there by 1870 at the latest.) 

I'd have to compare the old Revell - which I haven't seen outside the box in quite a few years - with the Campbell plans to see whether there are any other anachronisms in it.  Apparently the kit originally included those odd air ports in the sides; there may be some other points like that.