Learning from 1:96 USS Constituion

I put weight in the hulls of all my plastic models.  I just like the feel and also the reaction of others when they lift the model and it has some depth to it.  Plaster is not a good idea because it generates heat.  I use modeling clay since it is pliable yet sticky enough to hold a few lead weights in place for the lifetime of the model.  It also will never harden, dry, and crack out over time, nor will it expand or contract do to changes in humidity and temperature.  All things that you need to consider when sealing up the hull.

I am just about to join the hull halves on a 1/96 Constitution and will place a roll of modeling clay along the keel and then place a 1/4"x1/8" x 6" steel bar into the clay.  I will already have my ferrel mounts built into the hull before joining the halves so these will not interfere with the clay.

 I had two ships hit the floor this year, one was knocked over by a cat, and the other, my 1/96 Thermopylea, I dropped down the stairs.  Having the weighted keel, IMO, maybe allowed both ship to land on the keel and both only had spars knocked off.

Repairing is not as hard as it first looks if you have a well rigged ship.  Many times, if the structual integrity of the mast was not broken, I could just pin and glue the broken spar back in place and the rigging will require just some tension adjustments.  

Scott 

A couple of good points are brought up here.

As far as a base is concerned, I plan to order BlueJackets base and supports. The Revell model is made to accomadate two bolts to be fastened through their respective supports. The BlueJacket base has 3 mounts. I will have to see how I will handle it after I get it.

Or, I could go to one of the local wood shops that support the local Megayacht indudstry and order a custom made base. Or, I could go to the same shop and buy the wood and make the base myself.

But when all is said and done, I think I will be better served with the BlueJacket product. (Yes, the base will end up costing more than the kit. In the end result, I believe that the cost of the kit will be listed under "miscallaneous and incedental expenses.")

The vessel, even when mounted, will be light in weight. What do you think of this idea? Build the hull, mount the supports and attach it to a temporary base in the same manner as the finished base. Then pour in some plaster of paris in the hull before inserting the gun deck.  This will add some weight to the model but it will be entirely undetectable.

Oh, to think of the model being accidently blown over! Has anyone successfully repaired a plastic sailing ship after such an accident? Having more weight down low might prevent this.

But, is there a down side to this idea?

Ditto on everything you just said. The hard lesson I learned was with the lines running through the tip of the iib. Boy does that break easy. I can't say enough about making sure your rails are glued to the deck solid enough either. I took a break from mine for several months, and also can't underscore the value of a "highlighter" pen when you have to come back to the plans and try and figure out where you stopped at. I am definitely done with plastic sailing ships for awhile after this. Going back to real wood models. I wish I could send your post back a few years to a more eager and motivated me who started this project.

Great post! Keep em coming!

Todd

Good advice magic steve. As I get ready to rig the CSS Alabama I cannot say enough , particularly with Revell DE kits, that one must read the instruction book several times front to back. Many of the instructions are out of sequence and miserable to correct if already built.

When my hull was complete and painted I drilled holes in the Revell base into the hull bottom and used liquid nails to attach aluminum tube to make as one. I then carefully drilled small holes and used small screws to attach to sides of hull from underneath. Its rock solid and already measured for its base of wood. I will attach the 2 revell bases (attached now to the ship) by filling them with Liquid nails and placing over dowels already attached to the stained and varnished pine base. Let dry 48 hours. The model will then be permanently attached to its finished base.

I 'm not familiar with the Constitution base, however you may try placing the model in a jerry rigged B&D workmate where the model is steady on both sides and the bottom open... and you can drill from the bottom (with another person helping to hold the ship) sit on the floor and drill up, and do as I have for the Alabama.

I asked santa for a Constitution, but I don't see anything under the tree that big

There is so much that can be done to that kit. My first encounter with rigging was with the Cutty Sark, 1/196 scale I believe many years ago that kit took almost two years to complete and I gave it to my aunt who proudly displayed it on the fireplace mantle.Good memories.