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Multiple Questions on US Ships of the 1970s

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  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Nashotah, WI
Multiple Questions on US Ships of the 1970s
Posted by Glamdring on Saturday, December 30, 2006 11:20 PM
So I need to fing a subject to build that was in service for the US Navy during the 1970s. I currently have the Dragon USS Tarawa, which I believe entered the forces during the late 70s. If worse came to worse, I'll go with that kit. I haven't opened the box, but does anyone know what year the kit is supposed to represent? Were I to pick up the detail set from Gold Medal Models, what year would that bring the kit to? Of course, I'd really love to build a regular aircraft carrier, such as the 1/700 Nimitz by Trumpeter, but the price seems kind of restrictive to a cheap guy like me. I know that one is the represents the ship in 1975, or at least that's what they tell me. Finally how about battleships? I know there were several still in service during that decade. What kit and AM set would be best for that class of ship? Thanks for reading my rather long list of questions. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Robert 

"I can't get ahead no matter how hard I try, I'm gettin' really good at barely gettin' by"

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Seattle, WA
Posted by Surface_Line on Sunday, December 31, 2006 3:22 AM

As for the battleship, the only Viet Nam era BB (New Jersey) was decommissioned in 1969, and she was the first of the next wave of recommissionings - in 1982.  Battleships absolutely missed the '70s.

 Otherwise, you might consider the Skywave/Dragon USS Charles F Adams class.  It is packaged in a '70s rig.  That class was in commission throughout the decade.  Or a Spruance kit - they were commissioned starting in 1975, I believe.  Also available is the AFV Club kit of the USS Robert E Peary, FF-1073, a Knox class frigate.  Just make sure you leave the CIWS off. (Actually my ship, USS Stein, never got CIWS by the time I left her in 1989).

 If you want an aircraft carrier in 1/700, there is a horrendously expensive Kitty Hawk or Constellation from Fujimi for $70 from the Viet Nam era.

 I believe the Dragon Tarawa kit represents the kit early on, in the late 70's. 

good luck,

Rick 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Sunday, December 31, 2006 7:17 AM

Iron Shipwright makes a 1:700 scale Truxtun (CGN-35) nuclear cruiser, appropriate for the '70s.

JAG Collective makes a whole line of 1:700 scale ships appropriate for the decade too.

http://www.jagcollective.com/Ships_catalog.htm

The make a beautiful little FRAM Gearing and their AOE Sacramento is a wonderfully detailed kit. 

But wait a minute you say,  resin kits are too expensive and I am cheap.

Before you say that you need to examine what is included.  Most resin kits include photoetched brass.  Many include decals for the whole class.   Compare the JAG Gearing at $40.00 complete (MSRP) with the AFV Club kit mentioned above (16.00 at Pacific Front) plus PE (20.00 at GMM).  36 bucks versus 40 bucks - the prices are comparable -- and the JAG quality is better. 

The Adams mentioned above is 18.50, which when paired with the 20 dollar fret of brass is also comparable with the 40 dollar price tag on the JAG Gearing.  

You can order Gold Medal Models PE direct from GMM at http://www.goldmm.com/

or from Pacific Front Hobbies, White Ensign Models, L'Arsenal or other online shops

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by DURR on Sunday, December 31, 2006 9:59 AM

what about the hidden factor  Edgrune

the resin kit is a lot mork complicated to work on especially if resin is not your forte

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Sunday, December 31, 2006 11:49 AM
 DURR wrote:

what about the hidden factor  Edgrune

the resin kit is a lot mork complicated to work on especially if resin is not your forte

What hidden factor?

A resin kit is no nore complicated than a styrene kit,  in fact it may be less complicated since many of the subassemblies are done for you.  You don't have to glue deckhouse sides 1, 2, 3, and 4 together with deck part 5 to make a box-structure.   The resin deckhouse is one part, and it may be cast as part of the hull.  No glue seams or alignment issues.

Yes, you may have to cut parts off the carrier/sprue and sand for a good fit.  Last time I made a styrene kit I had to do that too.  Nothing new or difficult there.

Well, I have to use CA glue on resin.  Okay, show of hands.  How many use CA on their styrene kits?

Okay, they're harder to paint.  You have to use a special paint don't ya.  Wrong, they're easier.  They are not affected by the hot solvents in commercial spray paints.   I use hardware store brand paints without crazing the plastic.  And I save a buck or two over buying paint with a model manufacturer's logo on it.

Well, you have to use brass.  Okay - you may have me there.  But the original poster was talking about putting brass on his Tarawa anyway.  So your arguement is moot.  Or, go buy a HP kit.  They don't come with brass and they look good without it.

Here is an opportunity to learn a new skill, rather than being stuck in a rut and throwing rocks at new things.

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Nashotah, WI
Posted by Glamdring on Sunday, December 31, 2006 1:54 PM
That Coast Guard Cutter at JAG looks like a nice and different project. I love the Future Stealth Carrier as well. Perhaps I'll give one of the less expensive kits a shot just to see how it works out. By the way, sorry about the format of my first post, I had the different topics in separate paragraphs. For some reason they're not posting properly... Edit: Kind of like this post. Grrr

Robert 

"I can't get ahead no matter how hard I try, I'm gettin' really good at barely gettin' by"

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