For BIG JAKE. RE CONSTITUTION.

Here's an easy way to make eyebolts. It requires some wire of the appropriate diameter, a vise (Panavise or similar), a pair of wirecutters, a candle, and some small drill bits. If you have all the tools, the eyebolts themselves will cost less than a penny apiece.

I like brass wire (such as is sold by K&S in most hobby shops, and Detail Associates in shops catering to model railroaders) for this purpose. The diameter should vary according to the size of the eyebolt; .010" and .20" will probably serve most purposes. If you don't have convenient access to a source for brass wire, copper will work fine. Get hold of a piece of multi-strand electrical wire, strip off the insulation, and separate the individual strands.

The problem with brass wire is that it's a little too stiff to bend easily into the necessary tight loop. So heat it over a candle flame until it's red (ten seconds or so), then let it cool.

Pick a drill bit whose diameter is the same as you'd like the inside of the eye to be, and clamp said bit in the vise. The bit serves as a "mandrel" for making the eyebolts. Just loop the wire around the bit and give the wire three or four tight twists, so it forms a tight "pigtail." When done, move half and inch or so down the wire and repeat. When you've used up all the wire, cut the individual eyebolts off. (You may want to dunk them into some sort of chemical blackener first.) Drill holes in the deck to accommodate the "pigtails," glue the eyebolts in place with superglue, and you're in business.

It may take a little practice, but you'll quickly be cranking out eyebolts at a rate of at least one per minute.

One big advantage of this system: unless you yank the line hard enough that the wire actually breaks (unlikely; the line would break first), the eyebolt will never come open. The only danger is that it will pull loose from its hole. If you plan far enough ahead you can eliminate even that risk, by leaving the ends of the "pigtail" free and bending them underneath the deck.

Hope this helps. It's easy.

There's an excellent build article by Len Roberto (who posts here frequently) on that kit at the Modeling Madness web site:

http://www.modelingmadness.com/reviews/misc/robertoconst.htm

I really like the way Len's ship model turned out.

Regards,

I'd also replace the top-most section of each mast with wood-- those thin plastic pieces are fragile, and easily pulled out of alignment by the rigging.

Just wrapped up the upper gun deck today...there is a good walk through on Modeling Madness also...I have had a dickens of a time finding Micromark brass eyelets though...ordered them from two hobby shops, and still waiting. I ended up fabricating my own for the decks,and they are working fine, but what a pain in the rear to make...did you use a jig to make yours?

There are two ways of correctly mounting the guns. Firs there is the extreme firing posistion with the carrage wheels about 1/64 from the inner hull.
Next you can place them about 1/4 away from the hull this was considered midway and would give a better aiming posision (better arc swing)


2) on the bowspirit the hole on part 138 do not line up with the rear tab on part 133. Revell told me to cut the tab off.

Correct on above. but use ACC type glue to give it strenght.

I'm currently building the Revell 1/96 scale Constitution and I would appreciate your experience on two questions I have.
1) where do the guns go on the gun deck. I want them in th outboard position. I glued the carrage wheels in the waterways and then I couldn't get the top deck to close with the sides of the hull.
2) on the bowspirit the hole on part 138 do not line up with the rear tab on part 133. Revell told me to cut the tab off.

I build the 36" version 1/96th.

Big Jake,
Do you build the large "Constitution" or the smaller scale version by Revell for this children's project? also what color were the gun carriages & do you replace the deck with a wooden one? do you scratch build alot of parts with wood durning this 60 day time ? thanks jim tulloh

Thanks again,I didn't know that little nugget. Also painting white can be a pain against that black plastic. There is nothing as good as being able to actually stand on your modelling subject.Back home in London I lived twenty minutes away from the Cutty Sark in Greenwich. Victory was only a two hour train ride away. The destroyer HMS Belfast was parked on the Thames by Tower Bridge. You have so many awesome ships to visit. I would love to stand on the deck of the USS New Jersey. Now that is a ship.

The white stripe was ehite originally, but "Turned" buff due to salt water. Don't forget the inside of the bulwarks are med. dk. green, not white as they state in the instr. manual. I was just on the ship, a year ago this week. And have 100 pictures of everything!

Jake

Thanks for the input. I think I will go with the paint option. I agree with you about the eyebolts,never use them. I always use brass eyelets for wood kits. I saw on a website last night that the white stripe should be closer to buff as per the museum model?

Have you tried the Alclad copper lacquer?

Hope you guys don't mind me horning in here ...

Jim, if you do copper the hull I think the only way it will look good is if you take the time to sand off the plastic details and make individual sheets from your foil; otherwise go with Jake's suggestions all the way.
Good luck!
Bruce

The idea of using the copper foil is so,so. The edge will show and the detail of the hull will probally cause you to tear the foil as you apply it in certail places. It's probally better to paint the copper on the bottom. Use Floqiul Copper it is the best shade and pigment size is perfect. On the Ratlines I have a loom-a-line from Mmodel Expo and have used it as well as hand tied the ratlines. The plastic ones are trash, but it's the best revell can do, I would not use them. One thing you would want to do is instead of using the PLASTIC EYEBOLTS, switch to metal you can find them at a hardware store ot simply make you own from small bradd wire. Send as many questions as needed.

Jake
Jakes' Ship Shop