Revel USS Constitution 1:96 scale.

The most comprehensive source is James Lees's The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, 1625-1860.  (It's generally safe to assume that American frigates were rigged similarly, if not identically, to British ones.)  The book contains tables that show the sizes of the lines.  It contains far more information than you need for this particular project, but if you ever want to build another, similar model the book will be just as useful for it.

There's a volume on the Constitution, by Karl Heinz Marquardt, in the Anatomy of the Ship series published by the Conway Maritime Press (in Britain) and the Naval Institute Press (in the U.S.).  This one has taken some criticism in various quarters.  Mr. Marquardt missed a couple of important sources of information that he certainly should have consulted, and made at least one error in his text.  (It's been established that the ship NEVER had an eagle for a figurehead.)  But the rigging diagrams are clear and nicely drawn, and in my opinion they're generally reliable.

For the history of the ship herself, there are two good, recent sources:  A Most Fortunate Ship,  by Tyrone G. Martin, and Old Ironsides:  The Rise, Decline, and Restoration of the U.S.S. Constitution, by Thomas Gilmer.  (I may have garbled the title slightly.) 

The wood kit by Bluejacket (www.bluejacketinc.com) contains a set of plans that are widely regarded as the most reliable reference to her appearance during the War of 1812.  I don't think Bluejacket normally sells the plans separate from the kit, but a nicely-phrased letter or e-mail might shake a set loose.

There's a ton of information about this ship out there.  The sources I've mentioned are just the tip of the iceberg, but they'll get you off to a good start - and probably provide more than enough info to do a great job with the Revell kit (which, by the way, is an excellent one).  Good luck.

As always, Dr. Tilley is spot on with his advice. But, there is one thing I would like to add. Bluejacket does sell the Constitution plans seperately. Click on their web site and go to the kit index and click on Constitution. At the bottom of the page there is the instruction book and plan sheets.

I bought a copy and am very pleased with the wealth of information it provides. And the Bluejacket model is in 1/96 scale, the same as the Revel!

Hope this has helped.

That's good news indeed.  It looks like Bluejacket doesn't sell all its plans separately (there's no such listing for the Red Jacket, in which I'd be really interested), but it's good that those of the Constitution can be had in that way.  As I understand it, the book that goes along with the plans is quite a volume; that probably goes a long way toward explaining the price.

I did notice one questionable feature of the completed model photo on the Bluejacket website:  it appears to have split gunport lids (the type that are hinged at the top and bottom, with semi-circular cutouts to accommodate the gun barrels).  The current consensus seems to be that, at the time of the War of 1812, the ship didn't have hinged gunport lids at all.  Captain Martin concluded some time ago that the ports were closed by removable boards, sort of like shutters, that were held in place (presumably) by some sort of simple latch arrangement.  I confess I had my doubts about that for a while, but several good contemporary pictures of the Constitution's War of 1812 seem to confirm that Captain Martin is right - and, for that matter, that the British frigates used the same system.  

One can also order the same set of plans and construction booklet from the U.S.S. Constitution  museum store if you are inclined. It's $60.00, but it helps in maintaining the museum and ship.

 

Not to be too fussy, but I think we're missing the point of the original poster.  I think all he was asking for was a small shopping list-- a recommendation on some useful sizes of replacement rigging line (as part of a larger order form Model Expo, I assume.)......

.... and he's gettting some great recommendations on references, but that wasn't the question.

(Maybe all he wants is to build the kit basically OOB, but recognizes that he needs a wider variety of line sizes.)   

I can't say for sure, but I'd go with the general recommendation to get a variety of small diameters, especailly for the running rigging.  My thought would be "the small the better", as it is easier to find larger diameters if you find you need them later.

 

Quite honestly, I don't know why the Bluejacket Constitution has gun port lids. The instruction book addresses the lids being brought aboard in several places. In one place, in italics I believe, it states do not mount gun port lids if you are going to display the guns in the run out position. It is as if they did not follow their own instructions in building the model.

And yes, it is quite a large volume. It is over 100 pages of about 8 x 17 paper with many fold out diagrams and photographs. It also has 4 full size plan sheets with one devoted to rigging. There is a section written by Cmdr Martin on the 1812 appearance. It is, indeed, a very valuable resource.

Wow.  Thanks for the time and help in your responses.  The references are great and I think I might get a general rigging reference so I can apply it to other kits as I progress.  I was actually displeased with the less than authentic look of the lines that Revel included in the kit.  Plus there is only 3 different sizes.  I was looking for a more realistic rigging.  I think I should probably get a wide variety of the lines available from model expo.  I was also going to replace some of the plastic blocking with actual wood blocks from model expo as well.  I take it that I should purchase a bunch of different sizes and see if I can relate them to a reference.  I am kind of lost as to what sizes I should use to scale.  Again thanks for all.  jm

The European-made wood blocks sold by Model Expo are ok, but they'll look a bit crude compared to the Revell ones.  (There was a time when American ship model companies supplied beautiful, round-cornered boxwood blocks with precisely-drilled sheave holes and clean grooves for the strops.  Those days, unfortunately, are long gone.)  My personal favorites are the britannia ones from Bluejacket.  They aren't cheap, and they require a little cleaning up, but their finished appearance is great.

How many of them, and in what sizes, depends on just how thorough a job of rigging you intend to do.  I imagine the Bluejacket plans and instructions (which I haven't seen) explain what blocks (and deadeyes, and other fittings) are supplied in the kit.  But when you rig a ship model you have all sorts of options.  Some eminently respectable models have the standing rigging and the basic running rigging - the halyards, lifts, braces, and a few other lines.  Some modelers like to include some or all the gear that's connected to the sails - clewlines, buntlines, leechlines, sheets, etc.  (The Revell rigging diagrams actually are pretty good at explaining all this.  Revell has always outclassed most of the competition in that respect.)  It's up to the individual modeler. 

In any case, if you're just starting the model now there's no reason whatever to make those rigging decisions now.  And however many blocks you figure you'll need, there's no reason to buy all of them at once.  My suggestion is to order a dozen each of the three or four smallest sizes the manufacturer offers.  Then, when you get to the rigging, order about as many as you think you'll need in a couple of weeks or a month - and when you start getting low on a given size, order some more.  Bluejacket gives good service; if you take that approach you won't be slowed down significantly by waiting for blocks to arrive.

Two golden rules of ship model rigging:  One - if in doubt as to size, err on the small side.  Two - if in doubt as to color, err on the dark side.

Good luck.

jtilley wrote:

My personal favorites are the britannia ones from Bluejacket.  Two golden rules of ship model rigging:  One - if in doubt as to size, err on the small side.  Two - if in doubt as to color, err on the dark side. Good luck.

I went on  Bluejacket after my post last night and saw they had a huge variety of rigging fittings and lines.  I think I will make them my supplier of choice thanks to your recommendation.  I figure I will get a small variety of fittings and lines.  I was also leaning toward a general reference on rigging, and combine that with the Revel rigging diagrams and whatever else I can come across.  I will explore the britannia fittings you suggest.  Thanks so much for all your kind help.  Modelers are the nicest people.  So eager to share their knowledge and passion for a great hobby.  jm

jowdawg wrote:

I figure I will get a small variety of fittings and lines.  I was also leaning toward a general reference on rigging, and combine that with the Revel rigging diagrams and whatever else I can come across.  I will explore the britannia fittings you suggest.  Thanks so much for all your kind help.  Modelers are the nicest people.  So eager to share their knowledge and passion for a great hobby.  jm

It's the 'calming' influence of the frustration of trying to get things "right" <g> . . .

As to lines, that can be tricky.  You can get (or make) a rope walk and make up lines to excating sizes.  The problem with that is being able to actually tell the difference between 1/96 scale 6" and 8" line.  Which is doubly vexing as many, if not most, of the contemporary references give line sizes in circumference.  So, a 6" line is a bit less than 2" in diameter, which is 0.020 at 1/96.  An 8" line is about 0.025 or 0.026 or so--that 0.005 difference can be hard to spot, let alone find in the clutter on one's workbench.

If I'm remembering rightly, the Nautical Resdarch Guild's Ship Modeler's Guide, has a recommendation to use only about 6 to 8 sizes of line; I think that's an excellent idea.  I know I've tried using more--and then I'm not sure I kept the sizes right.

If you have a sporting goods store nearbu that caters to fly fishers, fly tying thread is an excellent rigging line, as it's typically silk, fine, fuzz-less, and sized in decimals (that last can really help sort things out).  Wandering into the local craft store is also a good idea, as you can often find fine-gauge annealed black wire in very fine dimensions.  Annealed wire makes excellent footropes, as it will hold a nice curve with little effort.  The annealed steel wire is also very nice for stropping blocks--which can be fussy in tinier sizes (which always look better).

A few years late, but the rigging plan for the 1835 overhaul is now on-line at the national archives.  With line diameters for running and standing rigging. 

As to thread size, my recommendation is to always go for a thinner rather than thicker line.  I find too many models where the rigging is too visible- larger and of higher contrast than it should be.  If you are choosing between two sizes, one larger than scale and one smaller, choose the smaller.

Also do not use pure black or white.  Few lines were white on a ship, and even though tarred lines were black, if you can find an off-black that is better than a pure black.  Sort of like using pure flat black on tires of a plane or car- off-black looks better.

Could you please send a link? I was looking at this site (hoping it would be the mentioned one):

http://www.archives.gov/

But my search for "uss Constitution" and 1835 did not show anything interesting. Thank you for helping!

I can't find the link now, but I did download the source document.  I will try to upload it, either here or at photobucket and send the link.  It is over 9 meg, however, so be patient.  I have since seen this document referenced as a 1925 drawing, but in any case it is very complete and has line diameters shown.

You said you'd be really interested in information on the "Red Jacket" so I assume you must have a kit of this ship. 

I recently acquired a 'Marine Models Co.' kit of the Red Jacket and am looking for someone with a similar kit so I can compare notes on the contents to see if I am missing anything.  In particular, it came with two white dowels that I assume are for the main masts, but shouldn't there be three? (I have more questions too - perhaps too many to bother people with posting them all here if there is away to take this conversation off-thread.)

Can you be of any assistance with this?

Thanking you in advance,

Dan