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Resin Hulls

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  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: South Carolina
Resin Hulls
Posted by torybear on Sunday, June 3, 2007 10:05 AM

I recently started work on my newest project - the USS Juneau. I had a little trouble gluing the upper hull to the lower one. As a matter of fact once glued (one finger to one side), it suffered from a sever case of overbite on one side and underbite on the other. So bad in fact that I had to break the hills apart to try again. Once sanded again, I did not want to make the same mistake, so I glued some small plugs along the sides of the lower hull as a guide for the upper hull. The plugs over lapped a little so that the upper hill would fit snuggly onto the lower one. It worked like a charm! 

Has anyone else had this problem? What did you do to align the hulls together? Thanks. Mike   

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: South Carolina
Posted by torybear on Sunday, June 3, 2007 10:07 AM
Please forgive my spelling - I have fat fingers. Guess that is why I am always super gluing them to my projects. Mike
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Sunday, June 3, 2007 11:29 AM

I'm guessing your kit was a Yankee Modelworks/Blue Water Navy.   Iron Shipwright also makes an Atlanta-class cruiser,  but ISW kits are typically whole hull.

YMW kits often have a mismatch between the upper and lower hulls.  This is most often due to the differential shrinkage of the thinner hull bottom and the thicker upper hull & superstructure. 

I've had some success in attaching lower hulls to YMW kits by using epoxy as opposed to superglue.  The epoxy allows you several moments of free-time to position the parts before it sets.

Mike Ashey in his Kalmbach book "The Basics of Ship Modeling" has a more drastic approach.  He cuts a mismatched lower hull apart - jigsaw fashion.  Then cements the individual parts together.  He fills the gaps with poured resin.

Essentially it is  something you need to try and see what works best for you.

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