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Build complete

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  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: NYC
Build complete
Posted by kp80 on Monday, June 4, 2007 8:43 PM

A month or so ago I posted some pics of the almost-complete AF-10, USS ALDEBARAN.  I just finished it this weekend, and here are some shots.  The photography is somewhat poor...I have to work on that a bit.  The model is a gift to my father-in-law, who served on her and counts his time on her among his best memories.  I spent a lot of time with him at the kitchen table, drinking coffee and asking him what he remembered about the ship, trying not to let him on as to what I was doing.

This is basically a kit-bash of the Revell HAWAIIAN PILOT, which lent itself fairly well to the conversion.  The PILOT is a C3; ALDEBARAN was a C2 and slightly shorter, but I decided not to alter the hull length.  Mostly everything above the main deck is scratch-built of Evergreen and brass rod.  PE WT doors, railings and ladders are from Tom's Modelworks.  Rigging is a fine elastic thread harvested from an old pair of socks (washed first, or course!).  The model is mounted in an IMEX plastic display case, only the base of which is shown in these photos.  The water base was made using a technique I read about in an old FSM using painted tin foil covered with Mod Podge gloss sealer, sort of a watered down white glue that dries clear.

For the cargo gear, I decided to rig the topping wires and guy wires only.  The elastic thread worked out great.  I started by coloring it black with a marker.  It's attached by placing it in a tiny drop of CA, then stretching to the next point, glue, then to the next point, etc.  It is only slightly taut, enough so that if someone hits the line it will stretch like a rubber band and does not break.  I was going to buy something called "Easy Line" but when I saw what was starting to fray from my socks, I decided to recycle them instead.

My father in law recalled driving the small boats, so I had to make some from scratch.  The lifeboats are from the PILOT kit, although the davits are scratchbuilt.  All of the guns are from the PILOT.  I didn't fuss about their size or accuracy.

Darn it, next time I'll have to make sure I paint the INSIDE of the funnel black...!

I made some mooring lines and placed them on an otherwise empty fantail.  I used a heavy thread, which was snaked out on the sticky side of a POST-IT, then coated with Mod Podge to keep it together and make it one piece.  Once dry, it is peeled up from the POST-IT and then glued down on the deck.

In painting, this was my first airbrush job, so I wanted to keep it simple.  I decided to go with one shade of gray, Testors enamel, and use pastels to shadow, dirty up and rust the hull a bit.  I actually got the inspiration to shadow from old B&W photos of the ship, because the shades of gray are what illustrate the detail in those photos.  Once complete, the model was sealed with Future, flattened with Tamiya flat base.

Hull numbers are dry transfers (aka rub ons).  The only decals are the flag on the stern and the draft marks from the PILOT kit.

The plastic IMEX case, which costs more than the kit, needed a bit of work to get a good fit of the clear lid on the black base.  I had to do a bit of sanding at the very base of the clear lid at the ends, and polish it up with a tri-grit stick, before I found that the lid sat well on the black base.  The small locking tabs at the base of the clear lid on the ends didn't lock very well, so once I fit the lid to the base, I drilled a small hole through each end of the black base and its corresponding locking tab.  I used a small screw in each hole to lock the lid to the base.

As I said in my earlier post, I have to thank all of you forum members for your help over the past 5-1/2 months.  You gave me many great ideas, suggestions, advice, information, and some incentive to experiment a bit.  I had a blast getting back to plastic ship modeling, this was fun!

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Harrisburg, PA
Posted by Lufbery on Monday, June 4, 2007 9:38 PM

That looks absolutely fantastic! I'm sure your father-in-law will really enjoy it.

Have you thought of buying or making a plexiglass case for it to keep the dust off?

Thanks for sharing your photos.

Regards, 

-Drew

Build what you like; like what you build.

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: NYC
Posted by kp80 on Tuesday, June 5, 2007 6:27 AM

Thanks Drew for your kind comments.  I loved seeing my father-in-law's reaction, he looked at it, smiled and said "that's it!" and then the memories came flowing back.  That alone made it all so worth it.

I considered making a case for it, but didn't know much about working with plexiglas or lexan.  I had made a glass case years ago for a wooden ship model, but real glass makes me nervous.  Instead I bought a case in my LHS made by IMEX (they make model kits as well), which come in various sizes.  It was bit pricey I thought -- $25 -- but considering dust, wandering fingers, and the need to get this done and delivered, it was worth it.  I was disappointed with the fit of the case, though, and had to make some adjustments, as well as come up with a better way to secure the clear lid to the base.  Otherwise, I could see my mother-in-law picking it up to dust only to have the lid separate and the model come crashing down.  I want to try and buy a very small flourescent showcase type fixture and mount it under the shelf that sits above the display case, but it would have to be very small and somewhat subtle.  I'll have to check that out this weekend.

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Seattle, Colorado
Posted by onyxman on Tuesday, June 5, 2007 9:13 AM

Great job Rich!

The water came out great, as did the rigging and weathering.

I love your method of building the mooring lines flaked on deck. I'll have to try that. I can't tell from the pics, did you do any work around the stern aperture?

Fred

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: NYC
Posted by kp80 on Tuesday, June 5, 2007 12:05 PM

Thanks Fred,

I was going to add more of the mooring lines up forward and figure 8 them around some of the bitts, but decided to keep it strictly to the stern area, since there is no cargo activity back there and they might not be regularly stowed even when underway.

I know we've discussed the stern aperture problem before on the Revell T2, but I decided to deal with it differently here.  What I did was use a piece of 5mm foamboard as the base for the water.  I made a cutout in the foamboard and recessed the hull into the foamboard.  I therefore had to cut 5mm off the rudder, so that when the hull was fully recessed to the depth of the foamboard, the rudder was in contact with the top of the foamboard (or in this case, the tin foil glued to the top of the foamboard).  I didn't want to cut the hull itself, and I'm glad I avoided that.  I have some photos of this ship showing about 1-2 feet of rudder exposed, with no sign of a propeller blade, so I felt it would look okay in this display.

BTW, I have a good source for rigging the booms, if you like I can scan a pdf and email it...let me know.

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Tuesday, June 5, 2007 1:45 PM
Good job, KP80 - and having that "personal" connection to a modeling project makes it a lot more meaningful for me, as I suspect you found with your father-in-law. When I decided to build a model of my Dad's Victory ship from the Big War, I had to ask him a lot of questions, much like you, and that unleashed a flood of memories. I heard stories I never did as a kid, and had new details added to the old familiar ones. He now proudly displays the model on his mantle, which makes all the modelling frustrations completely worth it.
  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: NYC
Posted by kp80 on Tuesday, June 5, 2007 3:18 PM

Thanks mfsob, and amen to your thoughts.   This is the first time I've built something connected to someone's past, and I found my motivation to stay fairly high throughout the project, and the gratification at the end to be so much more.  Next up for me is my dad's ship, the USS COLUMBUS CA-74, based on the Trumpeter PITTSBURGH heavy cruiser kit.  He was on it in WWII, and after the war, he watched from her decks as Howard Hughes flew the SPRUCE GOOSE for the one and only time.

At some point I plan to build a Victory Ship; can I ask what kit you used for your dad's, or did you scratchbuild?  Other than the REVELL MONTROSE, what other Victory hulls are out there?  Do you have any pics of your build?  Would love to see it.

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Wednesday, June 6, 2007 10:35 AM

There are several companies that make "big" Victory ship models in about 1/96 scale, I think, but the only one I have found in a manageable scale is the Loose Cannon Productions one in 1/700, of which I have built two. It's a nice little resin kit that includes a comprehensive photoetch fret as well. Dave and Hugh are both good guys to work with if you have any questions along the way. 

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: NYC
Posted by kp80 on Wednesday, June 6, 2007 11:43 AM
Thanks, I just checked it out via the link you provided.  That's what I'm looking for, it looks like a beautiful kit.  Working with PE in 1/700 must be tedious, though...!
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