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Need tips on painting 1/350 Ship Models.

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  • Member since
    March 2006
Need tips on painting 1/350 Ship Models.
Posted by IronCross1939 on Sunday, June 10, 2007 11:20 PM

Hello, I am actually asking *you* out there if any knowledge can be shared on how to effectively paint ship models, either using the brush, or spray gun.

 Thanks.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Monday, June 11, 2007 6:34 AM

A plain-monotone scheme can be applied with minimal masking by first spraying the deck.   Spray vertically onto the deck.   Overspray the deck furniture -- paint them by hand later.

When the deck is dry,  load your hull color into the airbrush.    Hold the ship tilted at about 45 degrees away.   Spray the hull from below the deck edge line and allow the deck edge to mask the deck.  You can spray the whole superstructure in this manner.     About the bottom quarter of the bulkheads are left unpainted.    Go back with a hand brush and cut in & paint the bottom of the bulkhead and the deck fittings.

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2006
Posted by IronCross1939 on Tuesday, June 12, 2007 1:03 AM
Thankyou for the brief Admiral. Dismiss.
  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Pacific Northwest
Posted by MBT70 on Saturday, June 16, 2007 8:15 PM

Not so fast, Sailor ....

 After the ship is painted, use a soft paintbrush to lightly apply a very small amount of silver rub-n-buff to all the surfaces that would be metal on the  real ship.  Then mix a thin solution of charcoal grey waterbase paint and brush it on everything, decks and all, one area at a time and wipe softly with moist cotton just as it begins to dry.  This makes the edges look worn and the crannys look old. Once you have the whole ship weathered like that, mix some rust-colored water-base paint and aplly in vertical strokes to parts that would see a lot of salt water exposure, like the hull, lower superstructur and under the waterline.

 All of this should be done sparingly, becasue each step adds more and more on top of the paint coat and you can easily cover up too much and have a ship that looks like it was sunk twenty years ago.  When you are all done, apply a thin coat of clear flat to seal it all up.

The ship will ook like  veteran after that. 

 

Life is tough. Then you die.
  • Member since
    May 2007
  • From: Seattle
Posted by PeeweeBiggs on Saturday, June 16, 2007 8:40 PM
 MBT70 wrote:

Not so fast, Sailor ....

 After the ship is painted, use a soft paintbrush to lightly apply a very small amount of silver rub-n-buff to all the surfaces that would be metal on the  real ship.  Then mix a thin solution of charcoal grey waterbase paint and brush it on everything, decks and all, one area at a time and wipe softly with moist cotton just as it begins to dry.  This makes the edges look worn and the crannys look old. Once you have the whole ship weathered like that, mix some rust-colored water-base paint and aplly in vertical strokes to parts that would see a lot of salt water exposure, like the hull, lower superstructur and under the waterline.

 All of this should be done sparingly, becasue each step adds more and more on top of the paint coat and you can easily cover up too much and have a ship that looks like it was sunk twenty years ago.  When you are all done, apply a thin coat of clear flat to seal it all up.

The ship will ook like  veteran after that. 

 

 

Do you have a photo of this as a finished model?

Peewee

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  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Pacific Northwest
Posted by MBT70 on Tuesday, June 19, 2007 2:29 PM
I do, but give me a day or two ... I can't seem to get on Photobucket right now.
Life is tough. Then you die.
  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Pacific Northwest
Posted by MBT70 on Friday, June 29, 2007 4:18 PM

Try this ....

 

http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/bb/bb-73/350-br/br-index.html

Life is tough. Then you die.
  • Member since
    February 2016
Posted by alumni72 on Saturday, June 30, 2007 10:07 AM
Nice kitbash - I wouldn't want to be anywhere near that baby when she let loose a salvo, though - I'd be afraid she might capsize.
  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Pacific Northwest
Posted by MBT70 on Sunday, July 1, 2007 9:26 PM

Thankee kindly.  And you're right ... the crew on the Yamato and Musashi were kept off the decks when the main batteries fired because it would blow them over the side and cause grievous harm to them.  But I doubt it would capsize because of all the added weight and armor.

In any event, it was a fun build and took me many months.

Life is tough. Then you die.
  • Member since
    June 2006
Posted by Paul5910 on Wednesday, July 4, 2007 7:58 PM

MBT70, Nice work.. I do like that weathering!

 Paul

 

  • Member since
    February 2016
Posted by alumni72 on Wednesday, July 4, 2007 8:58 PM
I was thinking more of the recoil from 15 16" guns rather than the weight - it probably couldn't happen without a higher COG, but you'd certainly need some serious ear protection!
  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Pacific Northwest
Posted by MBT70 on Thursday, July 5, 2007 8:55 AM
Well, let's up the ante ... those are fifteen 18" guns.  Remember, the ship was planned by the Naval Design Bureau, twice, but never built, so it's simply my version of their hypothetical Maximum Battleship.  As for the recoil, they determined that an extra 3,000 tons of armor per turret would be needed to absorb it all.  That extra weight would also stabilize the ship during a broadside. 
Life is tough. Then you die.
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