Filling pin holes in resin?

I agree re the Tamiya putty.  My problem with small, deep holes has been evacuating the air that can get trapped under the filler, I took to cutting a small slot out from the hole to allow it to escape and since you're already filling anyway it's not great drama to add a tiny fraction more.

Michael 

2 products I use: Mr Surfacer (a super-fast drying gray paint like stuff) and Tamaiya Putty (gray). The tamaiya works on styrene too, but can be "hot", but is realy strong on resin (not flaky like Squadron, but creamy).

Hope it helps.

Thanks for the tips.  I'll keep plugging away at BB1 and if I survive the cruise I want to "think about" BB35 or USS Houston (CA 30).  I wish someone would do those in styrene in 1:350.  Of course I'd also like a Sumner class tincan circa 1950 and an Essex class carrier modernised to 1950s standards.  When I think about how many people served on those ships in the 50s and 60s (me included) I don't understand why there are no styrene versions on the market. 

Thanks again. 

I'd agree, if there are a LOT of pinholes, ask for a replacement hull. I never expect perfection with any kit, especially the limited run resin ones, but when it takes days on end to get even the large pieces looking decent, the hobby goes from fun to hell in a hurry.

Be sure to use the finer grits of sanding paper and sanding sticks, and a light touch - nothing is more frustrating than filling some holes, and then opening up more as you sand down your first effort.

I use a variety of materials to fill hull bubbles;  Bondo catalyzed body putty,  Bondo Red glazing putty, CA (either straight or mixed with resin dust), and/or styrene plugs. 

By Texas (BB-1), I know that it is the Iron Shipwright product.  They often have problems with bubbles on the bottom of the hull.  Open any pin bubbles you may see with the tip of an Xacto and overfill with putty (Squadron white is like Bondo Red -- both are solvent based putties, but Bondo is cheaper).  When dry, wet sand the putty -- but don't be too aggressive so as to not open more holes.   If the bubbles are just pin points touch a pin with CA to the hole and sand right away.   For bigger holes,  CA a piece of styrene rod or stock into the hole and fill with putty -- the styrene acts like an armature to hold it firm.

Also, remember that Iron Shipwright has a customer satisfaction policy.   If your hull is too damaged that you cannot work it, contact Ted Paris at the address listed (or google Iron Shipwright) and tell him what is wrong.   Ted will make the problem right.