Revell small (16 inch) Cutty Sark kit found

Yeah, Russ39 mine's kit number is 5401.

Big Jake, I've found a way around some of the block and tackle problems with the rigging in this small scale. The instructions pretty much show point to point, but I now am armed with the 1/96 rigging instructions, so the rigging will take a step up here. 

Went to Hobby Lobby. Over in the bead department, I found a couple items that will help immensely. The first is called "crimp beads". They are 2mm in size. Made of metal, perfect for tieing one line to, and then passing the other through. Once painted wood color, I don't think they'll look to bad.

The next thing is some very small jewelry loops (2mm as well) made out of spring steel with about an inch of straight wire on them. I'll sink these little fellas in the deck, and wherever else I need a padeye.

Then I'll start the search for the chains. Of course no metal chain is in kit 5401, but I think I can find some prety small chain too. Probly wont fret over exact link count as long as it looks right, I'll go with it.

Thanks for all the support and discussion so far. I'm learning just by listening to yall.

Jake:

Mr. Calculator says the 24" long kit would be 1/144 scale. That's based on the 288 ft overal length.

Russ 

Russ,

That's alright, it ain't the first and won't be the last probally. But there is a 24" model of the ship. What would that scale be?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Old-24-Revell-Cutty-Sark-Scale-Plastic-Model-Ship-Kit_W0QQitemZ220129559192QQihZ012QQcategoryZ4248QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Jake

Jake:

I think perhaps you might be mistaken. Let's work through the numbers. 

At 1/96 scale, the Cutty Sark would be 36". Then at half that size 1/192, the model should be 18". So, then at a slightly smaller scale of 1/220, she would be 15.7" The box top says that the 5401 kit I have is 40 cm long which would be 15 3/4".  That's pretty close, especially given what we know of kit manufacturers and their length/scale calculations.

All of this is assuming that the real life fully rigged length of 288 ft is more or less correct.

Edit: http://www.cuttysark.org.uk/index.cfm?fa=contentGeneric.fdvmyqknhxemnmvz&pageId=209

This is the CS official website and on this page they quote her overal length at 280 ft.  

Russ 

Maybe I'm mistaken.

36" Cutty Sark, 1/96th.

24" Cutty Sark, 1/220th?

16-18" Cutty Sark 1/350th?

I was thinking the 1/220 scale was the 24" model of the ship.

Big Jake wrote:

On the bigger CS in 1/220th. scale, you get a bit more detail on the deck houses and other stuff, but I believe it's panagraphed off the same molds. Jake

Jake:

The Revell 1/220 scale 5401 kit measures out at just under 16" overall. That's why I asked.

Russ 

BigJim wrote:

Scott,   Thanks for the idea. That's what I'll do. Would it be best to sew individual loops spaced at intervals (seems to me to be prototypical)

Make loops spaced evenly apart and then after all the loops have been threaded, tie the sail onto the yard.  I tape the sail on with masking tape, then tie the outside ends and work towards the center.  Remove the tape.   Once the sail is secured, then it will be easier to add details such as footropes and stays.

Scott,
  Thanks for the idea. That's what I'll do. Would it be best to sew individual loops spaced at intervals (seems to me to be prototypical) or start at one end and sort of wrap the thread from one end to the other?

BigJim wrote:

What is the best way to secure the sails to the yardarms? I don't want to use a glue that will melt the sail plastic.

Unless the model is micro scale, I would never glue sails on because it just is not a secure method.

A few suggestions.  1. You can use the old needle and thread method with a quilters needle and tie or sew the sail onto the yard. 

2. An easy method that I like to use on models in the scale we are talking about is to take a small sewing machine needle, poke holes into the sail, then take florists wire, a very thin, fine wire found in the plastic flower section of any retail store, and thread the wire through the hole, when all the holes are threaded, then tie up the sail to the yard.  The wire makes it easy for big fingers and poor eyesight to secure the sails to the yard.

BTW, I have only used the plastic sails a few times, painted or covered with coatliner fabric.  I mostly use thick typing paper, muslin, or tissue to make sails.  However, I still use the above methods to secure my sails since they are delicate.

Scott

On the bigger CS in 1/220th. scale, you get a bit more detail on the deck houses and other stuff, but I believe it's panagraphed off the same molds.

I don't know if any of you remember this, but before Katrina, I was planning on building the model in all the varouis scale they make her in Plastic.  I have the 1/96th. already, I have the 1/220 and the Imai version (can't remember the scale 1/150th?) and the small 18" version. I may start those next year. If I don't start working on the Big  Heller Reale deFrance or the Soile Royal.

Jake 

Hi guys!

Just out of curiosity, is this Cutty Sark kit the same as Revell's number 5401, 1/220 scale kit?  I have that kit tucked away and it looks an awful lot like the pics Darrin posted. Same hull it appears and the instructions are much the same. I built the Revell kit Darrin has back in the early 1990s. Its not a bad little kit. I little customizing and it can be very good indeed.

Russ 

styrenegyrene YGM

scott, thanks for helping clarify the rigging letters. 

Big Jake wrote:

Darrin, I'd like to make it clean I meant no offence by the question. Jake

Offence? I hadn't even thought about that. So I can guarantee you none taken.

As John Wayne once said in a movie- "You keep speaking plain english to me, and we'll get along just fine." And my crack about Home Ec in school was a lame attempt at humor. I did take it though. Still run the needle half ways up in my finger while I try to sew.

This was the first Clipper kit I built and would be a good one for you to start on.  Some details are plain and out of scale, but the fit of the kit is excellent. 

The Rigging diagram is divided up between the standing rigging "A", which you generally will rig up first, then supporting running rigging "B" followed by all the auxillary rigging that operates the spars and sails.  I think the instructions do have you putting the sails on first before doing much of the "C" rigging.  Again though, it has been about 25 years since I built my kit and my memory might be fading at the grand age of 38.  I do know that I took 1st place with it at a IPMS show in Jr division.

Scott

Darrin,

I'd like to make it clean I meant no offence by the question. The detail on the model is very good, the deck and other sections make up for the small scale. Although out of scale on on the hull plating, I'm no purest!

The small scale makes it kinda hard to replicate blocks and pivot points. The forestays, backstays, lifts and foot-ropes are easy, but the braces are the hard part. If done according to the "Bigger" Cutty Sark instructions.

Jake

Big Jake wrote:

Can you really detail the rigging? In that scale it's possible, but hard. Jake

Yeah, I think I can do it. I was forced into Home economics class in school back in the '70s, so I can sew pretty good. Looking forward to it very much. 

I've built several of those and in that scale the way you may wanto to rig is use simple point to point rigging,  You can simulate blocks by setting a drop of glue mixed with some water base black paint at the brace relay points, and other points.  Can you really detail the rigging? In that scale it's possible, but hard.

Jake