photo etch railings, etc

I'm just starting out too (1/700th scale) and I like those Tamiya pliers really well.

Thanks Drednought,

My father recently gave me a set of small files that belonged to me grandfather, who was a tool and die maker. They have come in handy during this project.

Thanks for the tips. superglue is like fire; it's a great help as long as it doesn't get away from you.

The Dave

 

A couple of other things: don't forget to soak your photo etch fret in some white vinegar before painting. This will give some "tooth" for the paint to stick to. Be sure to rinse thoroughly and let dry before painting. Tamiya makes a really good tool for PE that is basically a long nosed smooth jawed pliers. It will be a great help. Also have standing by some diamond files to be able to file off any little bits of attachment points you miss when cutting the part from the fret. The diamond files knock off those little knobs with very few strokes making a mistake less likely. The Aileens Tacky glue is much easier to use to fix railings than anything else but it's use is limited when you want to attach brass to brass or to secure a fold, for those chores you must go straight to the super glue. It's also a good idea to have some spray accelerator around for the super glue, oh, and some de-bonder to unstick your fingers and the parts from your fingers ;-). WS

EdGrune, Thanks!

 Thanks for the in depth and informative response! This will help much.

The Dave

Thanks, I needed the help too!

Cut PE using a #10 Xacto blade on a piece of tile or glass.   Cut with a rocking motion like a paper trimer.  A #11 blade point will break more easily.

I generally paint my brass on the fret while I'm painting the model.  Spray and then touch up nicks and cracks later. 

Measure your length with a pair of draftsman's dividers.  Measure between logical endpoints; bulkheads, gun tubs, ladderways, previous railing runs, etc.  Resist the urge to do the entire side just because you have a piece of brass that long.   Work in maximum 2 - 3 inch lengths.

Make your bends off the model.  For a novice -- use square-nosed pliers or opposed razor blades.  A fancy tool like a Hold-n-Fold or Etchmate is not necessary.   Learn the mechanics then speed and improve your accuracy with the tool.  Like all tools it takes parctice to perfect.  Round bends can be made by wrapping the PE arounf a wooden dowel or drill shank.

I recommend a white glue such as Aleene's Tack Glue from the craft store to tack the parts in place.

Put a pin-point sized drop at each end and every 1/2 inch or so and place the part.  The Tacky Glue grabs, yet allows time to reposition.   The water-based glue cleans up with water.

After the glue is dry go back with some thin CA and run a bead of glue along the bottom to permenantly afix the rail in place.  

Work top to bottom and inside to out so as to minimize disturbing previously installed items.

Hand brush any nicks or cracks.  Then spray everything with a clear flat to kill any glue shine and level  the appearance.

Hope these suggestions help.   Write back if you have any more questions