Need advice--decal problem on a 1/350 Tico

mfsob wrote:

Try the window route, it costs you nothing but some time, and the decals are the last thing to go on anyway. One thing I learned the hard way when doing that, make sure the decal sheet is not directly touching the window, because if any condensation forms, guess where your decals will end up? I "offset" my decal sheets by putting a couple of thin strips of brown corrugated cardboard between them and the window glass.

I guess you're right...and at the speed I build, these decals will have plenty of time to get some rays!

Try the window route, it costs you nothing but some time, and the decals are the last thing to go on anyway. One thing I learned the hard way when doing that, make sure the decal sheet is not directly touching the window, because if any condensation forms, guess where your decals will end up? I "offset" my decal sheets by putting a couple of thin strips of brown corrugated cardboard between them and the window glass.

Dang, how come I didn't find those when I searched on hull numbers? Yeesh.

Well, if Bondo's method works, I'm good to go. If not, looks like I'm putting some decal sets on my Christmas list...:-)

Bondo, let me throw you a question:

I've taken the sheet in its current condition and tested a couple of decals from it, and they didn't even budge off the paper. Does that change your advice, or should I just not worry about it and get those suckers on the Window?

cdclukey wrote:

I can replace the hull numbers with a sheet from Gold Medal, but most of the markings for the AEGIS are not on the GMM naval markings sheet. I'm expecting that the absence of the plimsoll numbers and the warning rings (somebody give me the real name of those bloody things, please) around the weapons systems would be particularly glaring. What would you guys advise I do about the rest of it? Scan it in and try to make a sheet of my own? Try to replicate them with paint? Suck it up and make the best replica I can with bare bones markings? It's not like it's going to be a contest build. Or is there a sheet on the market I don't know about?

But you have missed the obvious.   GMM, while excellent, is not the only game in town.

You have a couple of sets from Iron Shipwright

 

 

http://www.commanderseries.com/

or perhaps JAG. [these are their 1:700, but are also available in 1:350 - this is the art -- the black lines print white on the decal]

http://www.jagcollective.com/Ships_catalog.htm

or high & low viz hull numbers from Hawk Graphics

http://www.hawk-graphics.com/

First of all, yellow or brown is not a sign of water, it's caused by acid in the backing paper staining the carrier film. And it can be fixed. Expose the decals to direct sunlight, usually by taping them up in a window facing south, for a month. Just watch to make sure its not one that gets condensation. I prefer the living room. Try to kind of time it so that you use them in the next month or so after the initial 3-4 weeks it takes to bleach them. You'll be pleasantly surprised.

Scan them.

Then, run a test with a piece from the sheet you can live without and try to overcome the next test; breakup.

If you have breakup, which you probably will not, it gets hard.

If it's bad, you need to bind them with a couple of possibilities. Buy Microscale Decal solution and paint it on, wait a week and try it. I prefer spray with a laquer like dullcote or Glosscote from Testors.

Or , put a puddle of Future floor polish where it goes and pick the dissolved pieces into it w/ a toothpick.

Keep me posted, and I've generally survived these problems.

Bill