I'm having a little trouble figuring out just what the problem is. The phrase "seizing a deadeye or any other object (in this case ratlines) around the preformed deadeye assembly" doesn't quite make sense.
Maybe a little vocabulary is in order. (Please forgive me if I insult anybody's intelligence.) A deadeye is a round, wood object with three holes in it. One deadeye is seized into the lower end of a shroud (that is, a vertical or near-vertical line that runs from the ship's side to the head of the lower mast). Another deadeye is fastened to the channel (or chain wale), a heavy timber that sticks out from the side of the hull. The two deadeyes are then connected by a lighter line called a lanyard, which runs through the holes in the deadeyes. Ratlines are light, horizontal lines that are clove-hitched across the shrouds; the purpose of the ratlines is to form a ladder for men going aloft.
In the big Revell Constitution kit, the deadeyes and lanyards are represented by plastic castings, and the shrouds and ratlines are represented (badly, in my opinion) by assemblies of plastic-coated thread.
If you're trying to work with the preformed, plastic-coated-thread "shroud and ratline" assemblies that come with the kit, I'm afraid I can't help much. I heartily detest those things, and customarily throw them out before leaving the hobby shop. They are indeed difficult to work with, largely because the plastic coating makes them so slippery. CA adhesive might indeed be the best way to get them to stick.
If you're using conventional thread of any sort - well, seizing lines does take a little practice, but it isn't really so difficult. One big asset for this job (and many others that come up in the process of rigging a ship model) is a small but sturdy vise. (I have a Panavise that I've been using for about 35 years; it's as good as new - a great investment for any serious modeler.) Say you're going to seize a shroud around a deadeye. Clamp the deadeye in the vise - with one hole pointing up. Pass the heavy thread that's going to form the shroud around the deadeye. Clamp the end of it to the standing part of the shroud. (A small hemostat is a useful tool for that purpose; you can also shave down the end of a spring-type wood clothespin to do the job. With the two parts of the shround held together, pick up an appropriate length of fine line to form the seizing. Start by tying a simple knot around the standing part of the shroud, and then start winding the seizing line around the two parts of the shroud. (With a little practic you'll find you can get along without the knot; just make the first turn of the seizing above the protruding end of the seizing line, and the second turn below it. Pull on both ends, and the seizing line will be held firmly.) When you've taken the requisite number of turns, pass the other end of the seizing line between the last and next-to-last turns. Pull the ends again, shove the turns against each other with a pair of tweezers, and you should have a nice, neat seizing. Personally, I like to put a drop of white glue (e.g., Elmer's) on seizings just to be safe. I like it better than CA for the purpose; white glue doesn't make the thread as brittle, and can always be softened up and removed with the application of a drop of water.
That model on the German website is pretty clearly based on the old, 1956-vintage, 1/192-scale Revell kit - which is still available. It represented the state of the art when it was originally released, and still holds up pretty well by modern standards.
Hope that helps a little. Good luck.