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1/350 Tamiya Missouri Eduard photo etch

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  • Member since
    November, 2005
1/350 Tamiya Missouri Eduard photo etch
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 17, 2007 7:05 PM

Hi all. I have this kit that i have started to build and i acquired the eduard photo etch kit for it. my experience with photo etch is limted so i'm looking for advice from those that have experience. Nothing specific, just in general...lessons learned, type of glue, painting, bending, grinding original details off plastic parts, etc...

 Also, does anyone know if there is an online build out there for this particular model? Thanks.

  • Member since
    August, 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Monday, September 17, 2007 7:53 PM

Lesson 1:  To avoid the frustration factor, do not make your first ship model kit with PE a large, expensive, complicated kit with a complicated PE set to go along with it.  Instead, start with a smaller 'learner' kt which is less expensive and less complicated, and more likely to be completed.

Lesson 2:  Do not 'grind' parts from your kit.   Work slower using a chisel shaped Xacto blade.  Grind pieces off and you will be buying a new kit when that burr slips.

Lesson 3:  Paint the PE fret at the same time as you paint the model.  Touch up any nicks & cracks after installation.

Lesson 4:  Measure the length of railing you need with a pair of draftsman's dividers.  Measure between logical end points;  previous railing runs, gun tuns, bulkheads.  Measure twice, cut once.

Lesson 5: Resist the urge to do the entire side in one piece, just because you have a piece of brass that is long enough.  Work in 2-3 inch (maximum) lengths.

Lesson 6:  Cut the PE on a piece of glass or tule using a #10 XZacto blade in a ocking motion.  The point WILL break on a #11 blade.

Lesson 7:  Make your bends off the model.  Use a pair of opposed razor blades  (one over, one under the piece and fold by raising the under blade).  Round bends can be made around a dowel or drill shank.

Lesson 8:  Apply a pin-point drop of Aleene's Tacky Glue at each end of the railing piece and every 1/2 inch.  Position.   The tacky glue grabs but allows the part to be repositioned (unlike CA).  It also may be cleaned up with water.

Lesson 9  After the Tackly Glue is dry - go back and run a bead of CA along the bottom rail to firmly attach the part

Lesson 10:  Hand-brush any nicks & cracks.

Lesson 11:  Spray a light coat of flat over everyting to kill the shine of the CA and to blend everything together.

  • Member since
    July, 2003
  • From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posted by ridleusmc on Tuesday, September 18, 2007 4:17 AM


Thanks for taking the time to type all of that useful info.  I'll be printing it.  I'm in the same boat as JJ.  Soon I will be starting my first ship build(s) with a couple of Tamiya Fletchers and a Trumpeter Sullivans.  The first attempt ended badly because ship modeling has a different kind of PE philosphy than aircraft or armor.  I have 3 plastic kits to work with and 2 PE sets, hopefully I'll be able to turn them into a late war Square bridge Fletcher.  Your info will help greatly.

Semper Fi,


  • Member since
    November, 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 18, 2007 1:54 PM
Thanks Ed. that was very helpful.
  • Member since
    February, 2003
  • From: Tacoma WA
Posted by gjek on Thursday, September 20, 2007 11:19 PM
I believe Gold Medal Models has a booklet on applying PE to ships. Check it out.
Msgt USMC Ret M48, M60A1, M1A1
  • Member since
    August, 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Friday, September 21, 2007 7:27 AM

You can read many books and articles on the proper application of aftermarket details, but until you actually do it you don't realize what they are talking about or how to best accomplish their instructions.   

That is the reason I recommend a less expensive/less complicated learner model on which to make mistakes.   You will make mistakes, I still do.


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