make your own display case

Yes, adhesives suitable for plexiglass (and I'll continue to use the brand name, so as not to confuse people who are used to paints being called acrylics) are better, to a point. As you mentioned thin plexi joints aren't very strong. The silicone with hold thin pieces together better than the "correct" adhesive. Smaller models look odd beneath 1/4 plexi, as the thickness tends to distort the view.

If you do use adhesive, check out the local suppliers of plastics for Methylene Chloride and an applicator. This is the one I use from the local company I bought it from:

 

Careful with it, it's a pretty nasty chemical! Use only in a well-ventilated room, and for goodness sake keep it out of your eye, nose, mouth and off your fingers! 

I'm an advocate of the scratch and snap method, as opposed to using a saw, as properly done it is less likely to chip the edges. Mind you, a table saw with the right blade and speed (most important!) is a LOT easier for the novice. An fairly easy way of cleaning up chipped edges is using a propane torch to "flame-polish" the edges. Careful though, it IS plastic!

If you can find a suitable diameter brass rod and have the means to support it off the end of a table, you can heat the rod and use it to bend the sheet. Properly done, you can end up with a "U" shape piece, that only requires butt joints at either end to enclose the case.  

The local stores have a better machine to do it with, and if the case is fairly small, it's not a bad idea to have them fabricate it for you. It can get pretty expensive, though. 

Silicone caulk is probably the best adhesive for glass.  I guess it would work for plexiglas too, but there are better, easily available alternatives.

For gluing plexiglas (or other forms of clear plastic sheet; "Plexiglas" is in fact a brand name) you really need a solvent adhesive that's designed for the purpose.  Check the label of whatever liquid cement you normally use for building models; some of them (e.g., Weld-on #3) work on plexiglas.  (Others - e.g., Testor's - don't.  The label should make it clear.  If it says the glue works on acrylic, you're in business.)  If you don't already have any appropriate stuff, you can probably buy it (it's not expensive) from whatever dealer in your neighborhood sells plexiglas.  (I believe our local Lowe's carries it.) 

One word of warning:  plexiglas butt joints made with solvent are quite sturdy IF the plexiglas is sufficiently thick.  The handbooks generally suggest that you don't try it with anything thinner than 1/4" plexiglas.  I've gotten satisfactory results with 3/16"; at that thickness the joints have occasionally come loose in spots, but have been easy to fix.  I wouldn't recommend trying butt joints with 1/8" plexiglas, unless the case is extremely small.

The basic technique relies on capillary action.  The edges of the sheets need to be cut accurately to size, and the edges need to be cut at, or mighty close to, 90 degrees.  With a table saw, that's easy.  If you don't have a table saw and are using the "scratch and snap" method of cutting the plexiglas, have the guy who sold it to you sell you a scraper and scrape the edges till they're square.  If they're at all rough in texture, rub them with a fine sanding block; the smoother the edges are, the better your joints will look.

Hold the two pieces firmly together in exactly the positions you want them to keep.  (An extra pair of hands will come in handy.)  Then apply a few drops of the adhesive to the joint.  A syringe of some sort is the best applicator; some brands of glue come with needles built into the bottles.  A small brush will work if you're careful.  Let the adhesive flow into the miniscule gap between the pieces.  Then hold everything together tightly until the adhesive dries - which will take five minutes at the most. Repeat the procedure for the other joints, and you'll have a vitrine for your case. 

If any of the adhesive goes astray, leave it alone till it dries.  If you try to wipe it up, you'll make a mess.  Let it evaporate, then - if the damage is visible at all, which it may not be - polish the spot with a damp cloth dipped in automotive rubbing compound (or, in the case of really minor damage, toothpaste). 

This is a sort of rough-and-ready method of making plexiglas joints.  The corners almost certainly will show some bubbles and other flaws; to get a really smooth, shiny butt joint in plexiglas requires the fancy, highly expensive equipment that the pros have.  To my eye, at least, the rough-and-ready method works better with larger cases; in a big case, the little flaws in the corners don't attract nearly as much attention as they would in a tiny case.

Hope that helps a little.  Good luck.

When I went to my local hardware store they also recommended silcon caulk. Its really for aquariums but its a clear caulk. I have not used it yet but plan to. My experience on some sample pieces of plexiglass and super glue were not encouraging, so I'll give the silcone a try.

Thanks for your input it's been a great help.

Grahor,

Next case you build dump the CA and use plain old clear silicone caulk. You might have to rig up a way to support it until it cures, but it will hold and dry almost totally clear, and won't mar the plexi.

Bill

I am most definitely going to build display cases for all my models. Right now, I'm just experimenting :) You can see my first small case for 1/72 PKZ-2 helicopter here:

http://www.lavkamirov.com/modeling/PKZ-2/pkz1.jpg

http://www.lavkamirov.com/modeling/PKZ-2/pkz2.jpg 

Of course, since it was my first try, it went all wrong. :) First and main mistake - don't use cyanoacrilates on plexiglass. Okay, so everyone knows that, but I was thinking myself all too clever to follow it - I've tried to mask the glass. It didn't work; or, rather, it worked in some places and didn't in others. You can see acrylic glass damaged and mated by glue, where it is glued to sticks.

By the way, I've used simple round sticks, may be even chopping sticks, I don't remember where I got them, to glue plexiglass to them. Those sticks are inserted into the base of the model - base is an oak board, coated in 3 layers of Future. Make the first layer thick - after first layer the fiber on the board will stand up, no matter what varnish you use; you will need to sand it before second and third layer. It's quite easy; just sand a bit untill it all smooth again.

All the work, from zero to the end result, took me 2 hours. Despite a relative failure here, I've got priceless experience and plenty of satisfaction. :)

I am most certainly going to make a big cases for my ships, because there is no way I'm paying $200+ for one (me being dirt-poor guy from Eastern Europe and stuff :) ). However, I have access to woodworking equipment and some experience with wood - and I have no idea how to make, say, molding without equipment. On the other hand, if you don't care much for molding, it's rather simple - all you need is strips of wood and a saw. :)

   Aftr seeing DD-777, I have no doubts that you should be able to construct your own display case.  Yes, it does take some time and effort, but the results can be almost as rewarding as the model build itself. I built the case for the "America" in my avatar, and the case for "Sihaya". Both have a hand rubbed tung oil finish.

Quite honestly, to me, the small amont of money you might save by doing it yourself is cancelled out by the aggravation of doing same. Which is why I usually get a case to fit the model before I start. I'm currently into the IMEX brand for my 1/700 ships because they are cheap, stackable and fairly optically clear. For my one bigger effort, I had one custom built by Ron Baluch - http://www.grandpascabinets.com/index.html - highly recommended.

We had an interesting discussion of this topic here in the Forum a couple of years ago.  Here's the link:  /forums/374126/ShowPost.aspx

There was a similar discussion on another website.  Several companies, like Bluuejacket Shipcrafters, sell basic display case "kits" for ship models.  They supply wood cut to dimensions you provide.  You must provide the glass or clear plastic. 

You can also buy raw materials to make your own case at the local home improvement store.  I prefer to use 3/4" wood corner molding, oak if available; and some plastic storm door glazing; stain; varnish or other clear finish; and contact cement.  Tools needed are a miter box and saw, utility knife or laminate saw (for cutting the plastic), ruler, and pencil or pen for marking material.