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Civilian Victory ship from Revell Montrose

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  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Seattle, Colorado
Civilian Victory ship from Revell Montrose
Posted by onyxman on Monday, December 31, 2007 10:59 AM

I started this mostly to hone my scratch building skills before I try a different project I have in mind.

The USS Montrose kit is one of the old Revell 'flat-bottomed' kits from the '50s. The hull is based on a VC-2 Victory Ship. I'll use the hull, and maybe can use some of the booms and kingposts, but everything else has to be scratch built. I got VC-2 plans from the Smithsonian Maritime Commission Plans collection.

The Montrose has a rise aft of the main superstructure that I cut off. I sliced a strip off the top of the hull piece just below the molded-on gangway features. This made the hull look too flat at the aft end, so I built up some sheer to the stern with styrene strip. Also, the bow looks too blunt. I glued on a strip of styrene right on the stem and faired it in with putty. It still looks like a tugboat, but it's better than it was.

Here it is with the main decks added.

Thanks for looking.

Fred

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Seattle, Colorado
Posted by onyxman on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 2:41 PM

Some progress is being made. i had a horrible thought last night. What if I get this done and then read that Trumpeter is issuing a nice 1/350 Victory ship kit?

Banged Head [banghead]

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 3:52 PM

That's really great! I've started my T2 tanker, by marking the hull to cut it at a heavily laden waterline. Otherwise I'm going to stick to the kit except for a new front to the main superstructure making the upper decks look cambered, even though they won't be; and GMM stuff in place of the molded railings. I briefly considered cutting the piping off of the main deck and replacing it, but life's way too short.

I bought the Montrose at the same time and was really disappointed by the landing craft and related davits. I'd like to follow your project and do this too, and there's the Red Oak Victory ship near where I live. Could you steer me to the plans, or could I buy a set from you? I could certainly go over to Richmond and take photos of the ship if it's helpful.

Looking forward to watching your build, Bill

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Seattle, Colorado
Posted by onyxman on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 6:11 PM

Hi Bill,

I got the plans from the Smithsonian collection of U.S. Maritime Commission ship's plans. I don't know how I could copy them, they are on a big sheet of paper, about 1/196 scale I think. If you PM me with an address I could send you a copy of their order form and what plan to order. The plan I'm using was $15, plus $5 shipping and handling.

I just posted some old detail pictures of Victory ships over at the Debris Field site.

http://russellwild.co.uk/forumdf/index.php?topic=262.msg1269#new

I think i have enough pics to reference. If you are going to take this on it would be real helpful to you to look at a 1:1 Victory ship though, since Red Oak Victory is closeby. 

This is my first big scratch building project. It goes slowly, but it's fun.

Fred

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 8:57 PM

Very nice work, onyxman! My Dad served on several Victory ships during the war; I got back into the hobby so I could build a model of one of his ships, but I needed a complete kit. And my finished product is nowhere near how yours is going to turn out (it's also a lot smaller at 1/700).

I have some good detail pictures of the American Victory, berthed in Tampa, and can send specific shots if you get stuck on something. The only thing I see missing so far as the distinct downward sloping ledge under each anchor chain hawse hole. That was diagnostic of Victory-class cargo ships.

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 10:40 PM
 mfsob wrote:

The only thing I see missing so far as the distinct downward sloping ledge under each anchor chain hawse hole. That was diagnostic of Victory-class cargo ships.

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Seattle, Colorado
Posted by onyxman on Thursday, January 17, 2008 11:01 AM

Right mfsob,

I just started to think about the area around the anchor. The part from the kit combines the anchor with that slanty thingy. I'm not sure if I want to separate the two. I already puttied the kit's hawspipe closed and sanded it over because I think it is slightly mis-located.

By the way, that slanted thing is to flip the anchor's flukes as it comes up out of the water. The flukes can flip either way, and you don't want them pointed in toward the hull as it comes home. At least that's the only reason I can think of for it.

One detail I wasn't able to get from the plans or any of the pics I have is the spacing of the web frames along the bulwarks on the main decks. I already guessed at it, so too late for me, but it would be something to look at if you get over to Red Oak Victory, Bill.

Fred

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Seattle, Colorado
Posted by onyxman on Thursday, January 17, 2008 11:15 AM

MSFOB,

I remember your 1/700 Victory well. Nice job.

Bondoman, Ill be interested to see how your T-2 comes out. I have one more of those in the stash which I want to do using all the modern bells and whistles, PE and all. Somebody should finally tackle that bridge superstruture and put some indication of camber in the decks. I also thought about cutting off the piping. I decided if one was to do that you might as well scratch build the whole thing from the main deck up. Rather not think about that!

Fred

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: NYC
Posted by kp80 on Thursday, January 17, 2008 1:25 PM

Fred, Monty,

Good to see your posts on my favorite modeling subject -- merchant ships.  I've eyeballed the Montrose kit for a few years now, but have not bought one.  It's on my list near the top.  I posted a pic below of a VC2 bow showing the tipping bar.  The tipping bar was allegedly a feature of all Victory hulls.  It's purpose was to guide the anchor flukes into the correct position for housing as the anchor was being heaved in.  From what I understand, it's effectiveness was questionable.

I look forward to following your build.  I'm at work right now and the pictures are blocked, so I'm anxious to get home and see what you're up to.  All the best!

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Seattle, Colorado
Posted by onyxman on Thursday, January 17, 2008 2:24 PM

Hi Rich.

"tipping bar". That's a much more sailorly name than "that slanty thingy". Smile [:)]

Fred

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Thursday, January 17, 2008 5:02 PM
I figured it had a name, but when I asked Dad, he was like, Jeezzz, son, that was 60 years ago!" Big Smile [:D]
  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: NYC
Posted by kp80 on Thursday, January 17, 2008 7:53 PM

Fred,

Nice pics, and an interesting project.  The VC2 is such a great subject, one I think that is overlooked.  Some ran for a long time after the war, into the early 90's. The USN Military Sealift Command operated several converted VC2's.  The ex-Furman Victory became a cable transport ship, and then there was the Range Sentinel, a tracking ship that operated out of the Cape.  I loved the steam plant on the Victories, very simple, you can stand on the operators platform and practically trace the whole main steam system from that spot.  By the way, the bulwark stiffeners generally follow the same spacing as the main hull frame spacing, so it looks like you have those spaced about right.  Please keep posting you progress!

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Saturday, January 19, 2008 7:15 AM
Another often overlooked Victory ship story is the one about the Meredith Victory, which evacuated 14,000 Korean civilians during the height of that war - all at once. The captain decided to take as many as he could, so they just kept filling up the holds one deck level at a time, then the entire deck, with the advancing North Korean gunfire in the background. Amazing to see, literally hundreds of people crammed into every available space ... and they made it back to Pusan without a single casualty, and five new babies into the bargain. The book Ship of Miracles is well worth the read. 
  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Monday, January 28, 2008 10:45 AM

Fred- I got the order forms- thanks so much. I think I'll order the basics and see what else if anything I need.

I've a question. The listed scale for the plan is 1/16". Are these plans really HUGE? Like 20' long?

Edit: I get it -1/16" = 1'-0" or 1:192 scale. Much better; I had visions of going to the kid's gym after work.

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Seattle, Colorado
Posted by onyxman on Monday, January 28, 2008 3:04 PM

At least. You have to measure from the plans and multiply it by .51 or so to get to the kit's scale. Do yourself a favor and use metric, and always check my math.

edit: oops, my bad. I read your 20' as 20". Yep, 1/192 is right.

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Seattle, Colorado
Posted by onyxman on Thursday, February 14, 2008 11:31 AM

Continued slow progress. My camera doesn't do close-ups very well, but here are some sub-assemblies of the masts and kingposts.

Those deck houses are a 10 sided shape! The ventilator cowls are from my spares box.

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Thursday, February 14, 2008 12:19 PM

Thanks for the update. It looked to me scanning the kit and your pics, that you need to scratch a new forward mast, correct? And add booms just forward of the main superstructure.

I ordered the T2 plans- thanks Onyxman for the order forms.

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Seattle, Colorado
Posted by onyxman on Thursday, February 14, 2008 2:59 PM

Hi Bill, 

The forward mast is the one on the right in the picture. ( sometimes I have to click on the picture to see the whole thing) It sits on a deck house which is already glued on the model. This deck house actually sits half on the main deck and half on the fo'c'sle deck. Nothing is simple on this sucker!

The 4 kingposts in the picture have that squarish ventilator on top. They locate on the 4 corners of the central superstructure.

As for booms, if I make them out of styrene, they'll be too flexible. OK if I put them in the stowed position ( down horizontal in cradles). But I want to try having them "topped" in a 45 degree angle. I'm afraid the rigging for that will put too much pressure on styrene. So I'll have to make them out of brass rod.

Soon I'll start painting. The livery I've decided on is complicated. Decks will be grey or red, vertical bulkheads white, hull grey and white and red antifouling, most railings, masts and booms, white.

I miss the days when I painted a Liberty ship after all the construction was done. Just sprayed the whole thing gray!

Fred

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Seattle, Colorado
Posted by onyxman on Thursday, February 14, 2008 3:12 PM

 

Something like this. States Marine Lines:

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Thursday, February 14, 2008 9:04 PM

Topped is the best. This subject is the next for me, after the tanker, but so far as a USN.

I grew up in San Francisco, and while I never set sail on a freighter, they are near and dear to me. There's a particular dark yellow/ light brown color that the cargo handling equip. was painted in, plus a black hull and white deckhouse that can't be beat. That "Lines" copy on the hull is nice.

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Friday, February 15, 2008 8:53 AM
onyxman, I don't mean to be picky (But I'm gonna be), are you sure the ventilators on top of the kingposts are square?  I dug through my pictures of the American Victory and the ones on the aft kingposts are round. I don't know if that's stock or a postwar modification, but I looked at my 1/700 victory ship model and all of those vents are round as well.
  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Seattle, Colorado
Posted by onyxman on Friday, February 15, 2008 9:50 AM

Hey, picky is the name of the game in this sport right?Big Smile [:D]

Actually, the vents are cylindrical. They look "squarish" only from a distance. They have a pretty complex shape of baffles and what-not. I did mine with a piece of styrene rod slighly larger than the diameter of the king post. Then I glued some very small vertical strips around the vent.

I had thought I'd cut off the top of the kingpost from the kit parts, but when I tried it, my scratch looked closer to reality than the kit's.

By the way, I put on the "tipping bars" (thanks KP80 !)

The kit's parts have the anchors and bars as one piece. I didn't want to put the anchors on the hull just yet as it would interfer with masking the paint job. So I placed the anchors in the right place and marked where the tipping bars sit. Then I separated them from the anchors and glued them on.

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Seattle, Colorado
Posted by onyxman on Wednesday, March 5, 2008 1:14 PM

It's been way more work than I expected. Much of what you see here is still only dry fitted. There are all those complicated shaped superstructure decks, each in actually two sections with a passageway between, then they have to all tie together with that ladder-like piece from the bridge wing to the main deck.

 

So, I have some paint on her now. I was leery about the very dark color of the decks. Over at the debris field site Mr Morris said he knew a long retired States Marine sailor who remembered the decks being "black". I had my doubts about that. Then I found one rare color photo of the Sooner State. The main decks looked to be such a dark gray that I could see how someone remembered them as black.

Here is the picture.

http://www.us-maritime-commission.de/pictures.php?code=A1198d

Fred

 

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: NYC
Posted by kp80 on Wednesday, March 5, 2008 8:12 PM

Fred,

This is looking real nice!  Just wondering, are you going to paint or decal States Marine on the side of the hull?

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Kincheloe Michigan
Posted by Mikeym_us on Wednesday, March 5, 2008 8:24 PM

Bondoman you talking about the T2 Tanker San Juan Capistrano? I have 2 of them.

 

On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6

The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15   http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Wednesday, March 5, 2008 9:11 PM
onyxman - my Dad served on several Victory ships at the end of the war and immediately postwar. I can't find the piece of paper right now, naturally, but I'm pretty sure one was for that shipping firm. Another was Moore-McCormack, the Mormacmoon maybe, and I think the other was US Lines. I can ask him what color the decks were if you want, he got to do a lot of painting.
  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Seattle, Colorado
Posted by onyxman on Wednesday, March 5, 2008 9:36 PM

It can't hurt to ask! But I think with that one color picture it's a pretty good indication. The Sooner State was a C-2, but the companies usually standardized the major paint areas.

Speaking of Mormacmoon,  here she is, a C-3

http://www.us-maritime-commission.de/pictures.php?code=A0063c

KP, I have a Microscale decal sheet with lettering for model railroads. I plan to use that, putting on one letter at a time. I'll make my own for the names and stack insignia.

It occurs to me that I've been working on this for two months, and if it was a kit I'd be at the point where i just opened the box and dumped the parts out. But if I can keep momentum up it should start coming together quickly now.

I still have to build the lifeboat davits. The lifeboats from a NS Savannah kit are just the right size. I'm using the heavy lift booms from a Trumpeter Liberty kit. I won't need them because I intend to build that kit as an aircraft transport version that didn't have the heavy lifts.

PE is from Tom's 1/400 railing, his 1/350 Liberty set, W/T doors, and some other odds and ends.

Then there is the base. Wouldn't it be cool to place this in a case with a Hawaiian Pilot C-3 kit, maybe on both sides of a pier?

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Wednesday, March 5, 2008 11:23 PM
 Mikeym_us wrote:

Bondoman you talking about the T2 Tanker San Juan Capistrano? I have 2 of them.

 

Yes sir I am. I'm working on the "Mission Carmel" and have cut her down to the waterline, and plan to modify the superstructure to accurately resemble a T2. Also better weapons- 1.1" I think.
  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Wednesday, March 5, 2008 11:25 PM
 onyxman wrote:

It can't hurt to ask! But I think with that one color picture it's a pretty good indication. The Sooner State was a C-2, but the companies usually standardized the major paint areas.

Speaking of Mormacmoon,  here she is, a C-3

http://www.us-maritime-commission.de/pictures.php?code=A0063c

KP, I have a Microscale decal sheet with lettering for model railroads. I plan to use that, putting on one letter at a time. I'll make my own for the names and stack insignia.

It occurs to me that I've been working on this for two months, and if it was a kit I'd be at the point where i just opened the box and dumped the parts out. But if I can keep momentum up it should start coming together quickly now.

I still have to build the lifeboat davits. The lifeboats from a NS Savannah kit are just the right size. I'm using the heavy lift booms from a Trumpeter Liberty kit. I won't need them because I intend to build that kit as an aircraft transport version that didn't have the heavy lifts.

PE is from Tom's 1/400 railing, his 1/350 Liberty set, W/T doors, and some other odds and ends.

Then there is the base. Wouldn't it be cool to place this in a case with a Hawaiian Pilot C-3 kit, maybe on both sides of a pier?

What a great idea. I like the ships that have their names in bold letters on the sides, one of my favorites was "LYKES LINES".
  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Kincheloe Michigan
Posted by Mikeym_us on Thursday, March 6, 2008 10:54 AM
What scale is it they look bigger than 1/700 scale?

On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6

The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15   http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/

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