1/72 Gato question

I used regular CA glue, but made sure I had a number of bar clamps on hand first. Starting at the bow, glue and clamp. If you put sandpaper on the "jaws" of the bar clamp, they won't fall off when you crank them down. Work your way down the hull, letting each segment of 8" or so dry before moving onto the next.  It took a full day, but any way to get rid of that hull warp was worth the time. (mine was off by at least 1/2")

 

Okay, so I can use the same techniques...just much grander in scale.  I quess I was getting unsure of myself considering my usual stuff is 10 times smaller.  I'll get to work!

 

thanks! 

I used ordinary Humbrol liquid poly, starting on the fwd end and working back along the top and then fwd along the keel, holding things together as I went to close the gaps and eliminate the slight warping mine had.

I didn't even have any problem around the midships area of the keel, where there is quite a pronounced separation in most examples of this kit. Just work slowly and patiently and allow the liquid poly to cure sufficiently at each step. It only takes a few minutes.

I think I'm going to work on the sail first...just since it's more of a size I'm used to.  I rubber-banded the hull together, though.  I figured it'll be a while before I get around to gluing, so I thought I'd set it aside to try to warp it back a bit.  Mine isn't too warped....about a 1/2 inch in the middle.

 My next problem isn't as daunting...which boat to build it as!  I'm thinking the Drum (have to make my own decals for it). 

 I'm finding that I'm really excited about this build...more than any aircraft I've done in a long time.

It is a rewarding kit. One thing I found out is that the bridge rail assembly, with the two long parts and one middle, are best glued in one of two ways:

 glue them together prior to placing them, and glue it in as a whole piece, or:

start on the port, and glue each stanchion in place as you slowly fit them in. With ca, it goes fairly fast.

USS Drum (SS-228), good choice. Especially if you're near her. Just keep in mind, most of them, are not modelers, so try to have pictures as references. They need to see exactly what you're asking about.

Also, that kit conning tower may not be correct, for Drum. You should be able get, exactly, the conn you need from Iron Bottom Sound (IBS) or Nautilus Models (Nautilus). Same goes for armament and other details (limber hole and flood port patterns, messenger buoys, decks, etc.). And, Eduards and Nautilus have some really nice P/E stuff for it.

If you have questions, this is a good place to look for answers. We've got more than a couple of old submariners,here.

If you want to go completely crazy (with info and details) visit the Subcommittee (www.subcommittee.com ) But be warned, if you go there, you may be putting your sanity at risk. These guys take modeling to a whole new level. Here, you're considered a bit eccentric, if you plan to do interior detail, for it. Over there you'd be considered a slacker. It's not really a sub model unless you can toss it in your pool and drive it around. Maybe even shoot torpedoes. And, YES, diving and surfacing is mandatory.

Mike K.

 

Thanks for the tips, gents.  I've decided to paint it in the Measure 32 /9SS-B scheme.  I like the darker grays better than the more popular and lighter 3SS-B.  I'm also going to build it in a "War Patrol" configuration.  I've read that all the hull numbers were removed during patrols...is this correct?

 I'm not a stickler for absolute historical accuracy, but more of how I like the way it looks.  I know, I know...boo hiss...  :)  So, I'm not sure which boat I'll do, now.  Since the Hull numbers will be removed, the only thing I'll have to worry about is the nameplate.

 Does anyone have the FS numbers for the darker 9SS paints?  The Revell instructions give the numbers for the 3SS only.

 

thanks again 

Hi Steve, Glue - I like to use a double method: a dotted line of styrene solvent (modeling glue) interspersed with a dottted line of CA (super glue/cyanoacrylite). I figure the solvent welds and the CA binds. Plus CA is an excellent seam filler!

Mike about sums up the situation (trsut him, Mike is anice guy and an excellent resource!). measure 32 is much more interesting than Measure 9, but wouldn'tmit be nice to pick a specific month and year and be - shuder - historically accurate? Don't mind me..and keep us posted, love to see pix!

Hull numbers - I've read the same, but the way it was worded suggest that whan they painted the subs black (and later Measure 32 gray/black), they just painted OVER the numbers - which means technically the numbers would still be there, and probably slightly visible up close at certain angles (Mike would prolly know or have an idea - Mike?) so I'm thinking of puttin on decals, and then painting over them... any thoughts Mike?

I can't speak, with first hand knowledge,on W.W.II. But in the late 70s, when the Navy decided to remove the numbers, they were throughly removed. That black goop, that the Navy calls paint, will cover anything. Two coats would hide day-glow orange, sand paper. And three coats would, probably, hide rivets. If you got it on your hands, it'd take a week to wear off. And it'd still be in the ridges of your finger prints. It wouldn't surprise me if it were made out of gap-filling CA and tar.

   Unlike the names on subs, the numbers aren't raised. And, unlike surface ships, they aren't outlined. Once painted over, there's no way to see what the numbers were, or even where.

   I'll ask around, the W.W.II guys. If I hear different, I'll post it.

Mike K.

Regarding painting--there are no FS numbers that apply because the FS system did not come into use until the 1950s. WW2 USN colors were based on the 1929 Munsell Book of Color. Here are the painting instructions for Ms.32/3SS and Ms.32/9SS, referenced to our Colourcoats enamels which are accurately matched to the USN colors:

 

Measure 32/3SS-B: Paint the deck glossy black (Colourcoats ACS 04), stopping two feet short of the edges. All other horizontal and sloping surfaces paint BK Dull Black (Colourcoats C 02). The vertical surfaces were painted #27 Haze Gray (Colourcoats US 28). The edges on curved surfaces between the Dull Black and Haze Gray were feathered (blended). Just aft of the conning tower, the Haze Gray blended into #17 Ocean Gray (Colourcoats US 31), which in turn blended into the BK Dull Black stern section. The undersides of any overhanging surfaces were painted 5-U White (Colourcoats C 03). The forward, rounded portion of the conning tower and periscope shears were painted #17 Ocean Gray. The deck guns were painted BK Dull Black on the upper half of the barrels and #46 Outside Gray (Colourcoats US 32) on the lower half of the barrels.

Measure 32/9SS: The instructions were the same as for Ms.32/3SS-B, except that #17 Ocean Gray (Colourcoats US 31) was used on the vertical surfaces instead of #27 Haze Gray. Just before the forward deck gun, the #17 Ocean Gray was blended into #11 Outside Gray (Colourcoats US 34). Aft of the conning tower the #11 Outside Gray was blended into #7 Navy Gray (Colourcoats US 35), and this was blended into BK Dull Black at the stern. Both the forward and aft rounded ends of the conning tower were painted #7 Navy Gray, blended into #17 Ocean Gray on the conning tower sides.

Cheers,

John Snyder, White Ensign Models, http://WhiteEnsignModels.com 

Wow, thanks for the info guys.  Looks like I came to the right place!

I think I've got I neat idea on how to display it, too.  I'm going to build it "submerged"...lit with a blue shaded lamp with an underwater-type filter to give the impression of light shining through the waves.  Of course, I have to actually complete the thing first.

If I ever get it completed, I'll post some shots...but don't expect much, I'm just a average airplane builder.

I do have another noob question.  Forgive me if it's REALLY stupid, but I'm still new to Naval stuff.  When submerged, which "bits" on the sub are retracted?  I know that the davits wouldn't be there, but what about anything else? 

Glue - I've become a big fan of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement.  It's a liquid cement in a bottle and applied with a brush.  I prefer it to CA for assembly.  The advantage of this cement is that while it does weld the joints together it doesn't damage any surface detail as long as you don't stick your finger in it.  It's not as "hot" as Tenax-7R so it takes a little more time to dry.  All liquid cement has capilary action so just be careful where you place your tape, fingers, clamps, etc. because this stuff is very thin and it will get there if it has a chance.

I'm not a fan of CA for assembly because CA doesn't weld the joints and as a result they are not as strong.  I do like CA for some photoetch applications and filling but I'm finding myself using it less and less all the time.

Have fun!

PS.  Has anyone tried working with the Eduards PE set for this boat? 

By the way, with liquid cement don't go overboard.  When you get too much glue in the joint and and pressure the melted plastic can ooze right out of the seam.  I've found that if you just let the glue run in the joint and let it dry this creates a very solid, welded joint.  Also make sure you have good joints to glue.  I like to flatten the joints so that they come together as flush as possible.

Dave