Essex Painting Questions

Sure, you can spray out the patches...I use 3m Frisket film to mask off areas that could be damaged by overspray.

I've stumbled onto something recently about clear coats that I'll share with you. I finally broke down and tried Tamiya Clear with X-21 Flat base added. I was semi-happy with the results when I started thinking about adding X-21 to Future Floor wax. I spray my models with Future prior to washes, weathering and decaling, then usually put a flat coat over it.

I added X-21 to the Future, with a little rubbing alcohol and water to thin it just a bit...and sprayed my latest project...it came out looking fantastic.

Experiment on something other than Essex first though.

Now, you do realize that to do the Trumpeter Essex properly in her April 1944 fit, when she started wearing camo, that you're going to have to make some changes to the kit...

Here's how she was configured...

She carried the early style bridge until April of 44. After her refit, she carred the extended bridge with one less 40mm mount.

She never carried a hangar deck cat, and was fitted with twin cats in April of 44, the startboard cat being slightly forward of the port cat.

She retained her 5 radio masts throughout.

She carried SK radar on the starboard side of the funnel.

She carried 2 40mm on the port sponson, and 2 additional 40mm after April of 44 starboard aft.

After her April of 44 refit, her aircraft loadout changed too...

Air Group 15 June 1944 - September 1944
VF-15 39 F6F
VFN-77 4 F6F-3N
VB-15 4 SBD, 36 SB2C
VT-15 20 TBF/TBM

Let me know if you need photos or additional intel, design sheets, etc.

The Essex kit is actually better suited to representing the Yorktown CV-10, Intrepid CV-11, or Hornet CV-12.

Regards,

Jeff Herne
Modelwarships.com

Jeff:

Thank you so much for the information. I am an Essex (class) nut and want to title the model something like: "Essex (CV 9) off Saipan, June 1944" so the upgrade info is very important. I'm glad to hear from a real expert!

I have every reference I can lay my hands on: all the Squadron books; Warship's 4 and 5; Warship Perspectives on Essex; Lexington in Detail and Scale; Floating Drydock Camo 2 and "Bu series" drawings (ordered); Faltum and Friedman books; and the essex_data on-line at steelnavy.com. If there are other sources you like please let me know.

I will try your painting tips. Feedback later.

Regarding the upgrades, I notice the Trumpy kit does not have the extra 40 mm gun tubs or the second whaleboat. Ideas?

No doubt I will have lots of questions later, but one for now: are the railings painted camo? Some pictures seem to say yes and some no.

Thanks again,

Chris

The stanchions would be painted the prevelent camo color, but the cables were usually not painted. At least this is what I'm seeing on the USS Kidd and USS Slater, which are pretty much restored back to their WW2 configurations. It's tough to tell from photos.

The Warship Perspectives Essex book is written by a very close friend, Glenn Arnold. I wrote the first book in the series on Fletcher, Gearing, and Sumner Class Destroyers. In fact, it was I who got Glenn involved in writing his first WR Press book, which was on the Atlantas...small world.

I have lots of photos, if you have broadband let me know, and I'll email you some Zip files of Essex Class ships.

Regards,

Jeff Herne
Modelwarships.com

PS: I'm no expert...I just remember alot, that's all.

If you've scuffed or scratched the paint or simply got finger prints on it, try some Tamiya polishing paste or model car wax. Apply LIGHTLY with a cotton cloth. Too much rubbing will remove the paint, but just a touch will do the trick. I used this technique on a Skyhawk I fingerprinted! Worked great.

Jeff:

I 've got the X-21 now. What was the mixing ratio with the Future?

Chris

Riceballtrp:

Thanks for the idea.

Chris

Chris,

I mixed it 1/3rd X-21 to 2/3 Future...but, mix up a batch and test it on somethig else irst...keep it shaken, because it will separate if left for any period of time...

Jeff