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constitution sails

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  • Member since
    November 2005
constitution sails
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, October 31, 2003 1:53 PM
I've read a few posts about making sails using handkerchiefs and PVA. Pardon my ignorance, but what is PVA? And, I'm a model railroader and we use diluted white glue for lots of applications and it works very well. What do you think about using the plastic sails as forms, then soaking handkerchiefs with diluted white glue (adding a little soap makes "wet" water - it will absorb easily) to make sails?
Also, any advice on making ratlines?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, October 31, 2003 4:51 PM
Welcome to the forum! Hope you enjoy your stay with us!

In answer to your questions:
PVA is basically a form of water soluable white glue. Most hobby stores will have it in stock, if you look in their decoupage section. The most common is a product called "Mod Podge." It's aslo available in different glosses, from high gloss to matte.
Your idea for making the sails should work fine. Just be careful not to glue the hankies to the plastic formers.
For ratlines, I would use thread or fine twine. It's already woven, and would look just like hemp rope with a bit of paint.

Good luck!

demono69
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, November 1, 2003 11:38 PM
Hi cookster and welcome!
Using the plastic sails for forms is about all they are good for in my opinion, so I think you are on the right track there. I personally have not done this but others who have will probably come along with some good advice.

As for ratlines, I would recommend you stay away from commercial ratline makers. My opinion (again) is that they are not worth the price for what they do. I rattle down the shrouds after I have installed and set them up. That way I can tension the shrouds properly and align the deadeyes without screwing up the ratlines. Mind you I usually work in larger scales like 1:48 so this makes placing ratlines on the model easier.

Use a fine lint free thread, tan or off white in colour (ratlines were not tarred). If your scale permits, tie them off with seizings around the fore and aft end shrouds, and use clove hitch knots in the others. This is like full size practice. There is no need to paint them if you start with a suitable colour. The best way to decribe a clove hitch is to refer you to a boy scout.

If your scale will not permit the knots because they look too big, then use a small sewing needle to pass the ratline through each shroud (which should be much larger), and secure the ends with a very tiny drop of white glue (super glue will make the threads go glossy).

Look in the better fabric stores for suitable thread, or try on line marine modelling stores like The Dromedary.

PS:
I often frequent model RR shops for tools and supplies for ship building as I find a great deal of crossover between the two hobbies.

Regards,
Bruce

PPS: Please come back and let us know how you made out or if we can provice further help.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 3, 2003 10:03 AM
Thanks for the replies....I'll give them a shot and see what happens. I'd already thought of gluing the rat lines together (as knots will probably be to big) but I wasn't sure if it would work. I would've never thought of using 2 sizes of thread and threading the smaller through the larger. I can't wait to try it!
I'm working in 1/96th scale (the revell constitution) so what diameter thread sizes are appropriate fo the rat lines?

Thanks again for the help.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 3, 2003 10:15 PM
Cookster:
Here is some information on shrouds from one of my references, if you want to get anal about these things:
Shrouds on the lower masts at the fore and main in the 18th century were 60% the size of the main stay, and the Mizzen was 40%.
The main stay was about 15% the diameter of the main mast. (Some heavy duty ropes here!)
Reduce the shroud sizes by 50% for the topmasts, and half again for the topgallant mast shrouds.
As a general rule the running end of the shroud was on the fore side of the deadeye.
Shrouds were laid in pairs starting at the fore starboard and alternating starboard then port, etc. The rope went up over the mast, was seized (tied to itself) at the top, then was laid back down to form the next shroud aft on the same side.
If you have an odd number of shrouds, they were either spliced starboard to port, or the running end was seized like the others then stopped at a block which hung near the top of the mast; this pendant was used for general hoisting.
Shrouds, as all standing rigging, should be black as the that rigging was tarred.

Running rigging was not tarred, thus is brown or off white hemp.
Ratlines were rarely used on the togallant masts, and never on the royal poles. They begin above the upper deadeyes and continued to the futtock stave. The lower mast, topmast and lower futtock shrouds all received ratlines. (Futtocks are the short shrouds that go outwards to the mast top; they take the load of the upper mast shrouds.)
Ratline spacing was about 16 inches give or take, and they were light rope or spun yarn about 1 1/2" diameter. They hung loose between the shrouds.

If this is information overload don't worry, I just thought you might like to know how the shipwrights did it in 1:1. Your model will look great if the deadeyes all line up neatly and you use smaller line for the ratlines. I'm sure that anything you do will beat what came in the kit.

Regards,
Bruce


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