I hope I don't insult anybody's intelligence with the following, but lots of people seem to have problems converting measurements and drawings from one scale to another - not because they don't understand the concept, but because they make the calculation process more complicated than it needs to be. I never took a math course beyond high school (and math was my worst subject), but I find the following system easy.
So here's a rough-and-ready technique for re-sizing plans to match the scale of a kit. It requires a good, accurate ruler (preferably one marked in 64ths of an inch) and a photocopier (or scanner) that can reduce and enlarge to specific percentages. (I used to have to drive to Kinko's whenever I wanted to resize a drawing; now I can do it with my very own, $125 Epson printer/copier/scanner.) You don't need to know the scale of the original drawing, or, for that matter, the exact scale of the kit. (That's just as well. If the drawing has been reproduced before it may or may not be the same size it was originally, and we all know that kit manufacturers can make downright gross dimensional errors). The calculations can be done with pencil and paper, but the job will be faster, and errors much less likely, if you've got a pocket calculator that works in feet, inches, and fractions. (You can buy such a gadget nowadays at Wal-Mart for less than $10. I've got three of them; they're among the most used tools I've got.)
The math is just simple arithmetic. It may be a little hard to follow as I type it here, because the font doesn't lend itself to typing fractions, but believe me - it's really quite simple. If it wasn't, I wouldn't be able to do it.
Pick a measurement that you can take conveniently and precisely from both the plans and the kit. The bigger the better. (The length of the hull at the waterline is often the best.) Measure carefully (preferably to the nearest 64th). Write down the two measurements.
Since the reduction and enlargement ratios on the copier are based on percentages, you need to convert the ratio between the kit and plans measurements to a percentage. Assume for the moment that the plans are on a larger scale than the kit. The relevant equation is: kit dimension over plans dimension = X over 100. So multiply the kit dimension by 100 and divide the result by the plans dimension. Key the resulting number into the copier, and (assuming the copier works right) it will disgorge a copy of the plans that will match the kit. (Check it, though. You may find that the reduction ratio in the copier isn't exactly right. If not, click the percentage up or down by 1 and try again.)
Example. Say the dimension you took off the plans is 9 7/64", and the equivalent dimension on the kit is 5 7/32". The equation is 5 7/32" over 9 7/64" = X over 100. Dredge up your memory of what your fifth-grade teacher told you about cross-multiplication. Multiply 5 7/32" by 100; the answer (according to my little calculator) is 521 7/8". Divide that figure by 9 7/64", and the calculator will tell you that X=57.289879. So set the ratio on the copier at 57%. (And if the resulting copy doesn't match the kit, try 58% or 56%.)
If the drawing you're working from is on a smaller scale than the model, just flip the first half of the equation. Make it: plans dimension over model dimension = x over 100.
There will be a limit to how much the copier can reduce or enlarge. (On my printer/copier/scanner the limits are 25% and 400%.) If necessary, make the reduction in two (or more) steps. Reduce the original as much as the copier will let you, then take the dimension off that copy and go from there.
If you're working from a big set of plans that won't fit on the copier glass, you obviously have another problem. One solution is to make the initial reduction in several overlapping parts, laying the plans on the copier glass and sliding them around. Then (very carefully) fasten the copies together with tape or a gluestick. A better approach, if practical, is to take the plans to an architectural printing company. Such places have huge copy machines that can handle blueprint-size sheets. The firm in my town will reduce a 4-foot long drawing to 25% of the original size for about $5.00.
You can, of course, make model-size copies of particular parts of the plans. For that matter, you don't need to make model-size copies of the plans at all; you can just figure out the dimensions of the parts you're making and work from there. Personally, though, I find that it's always helpful to have a set of model-size plans on the workbench. Reading this post will take at least five times as long as the actual process.
Practical, personal example: some years ago I was working on a coversion of the Tamiya 1/700 Enterprise to the Yorktown. There are quite a few differences in the island structures. I ordered a set of plans for the Yorktown from the Floating Drydock. They're fascinating drawings, reproduced from the original "Booklet of General Plans." And they're on the scale of 1/8"=1' (or 1/96). I didn't have my own printer/copier in those days, so I took the big plans down to Kinko's and laid the relevant sections of the sheets showing the island on the copier glass. It took several steps (and a couple of dollars), but eventually I got a workable elevation and plan view of the Yorktown's island in 1/700 scale. Those copies tipped me off to the fact that the island in the Tamiya kit was ludicrously skinny - and that fact had all sorts of implications for the details of the flight deck; I eventually gave up on the project. Maybe some day....
Again, I apologize to anybody who already knew all this. But I'm often surprised at how many people don't realize how simple it is. I really feel sorry for our predecessors in the days before reducing copiers and calculators. Just about every old book on ship modeling starts out with a chapter on how to resize a set of plans by drawing grids and plotting curves on them.