Some questions about clear final finishes

Normie1, don't use Testors flat finish. It models on the finish. It will leave your model looking like it needs a dermatologist. My recoommendation is to use Microscale flat finishes. I've never had a problem with it. I've also used Floquil with great success. I'm saying this hoping that you have an airbrush.

If not.... I'm not sure what your best option is. Perhaps somebody could help here.

That said, somebody put out a post that I want to try. They used Tamiya flat base mixed less than 50/50 with Future. I think I would start with something like 25% at first and experiment from there. Future can go on by airbrush, brush, or dipping. I'm not sure how this mixture will behave, but I want to give it a try sometime soon.

As far as clear acrylic gloss goes there is only one choice and that is Future Floor Wax. It will never yellow. Great stuff and easy to use.

Hope that helps.
Good luck/Dave

Yes Dave, I've got the airbrush. I just never used it for applying a clear finish. I've heard some say that it can be a little tricky applying it with an airbrush so I used the aerosol can instead. One thing I know is that an airbrush will lay on a much more even coat than the aerosol. It's probably the best way to do it.

Thanks,
Norm.

Yea, since you have the airbrush I would recommend going that route. I remember years ago when I used the Testors clear flat sometimes it would work, and most of the time it didn't. Once I switched to the Microscale product my problems went away. The Future suggestion is interesting and I can't wait to give it a shot. Forgive the punn.
Dave

Try using Minwax Polycoat. With a soft brush it goes on easy, drys fast and wont yellow. You can get it anywhere.

I often use Microscale flat coat on smaller scale models with just a hand brush. It levels well and doesn't leave streaks or spots. I think the problem with the Dullcote lacquer spray is that it gathers around the nozzle then spatters on the model, but it also can attack the underlying paint and leave a real mess. I've found that it helps if the model surface is warm but not hot, the can has been warmed in warm water, and the nozzle has been soaked in lacquer thinner. But mysterious and unpleasant things still happen!