Need Help

Hey there, Fred.

We all use different approaches for these techniques. I'll share mine with you.

A "wash" is a technique that allows you to put subtle "shadows" in your model. Its a mixture of oil paints (burnt umber and prussian blue is what I use), primarily, and paint thinner or some other thinning solution. The oil paint is thinned down in a consistency just enough to allow the oil to "creep" in between seams, panel lines, creases, and other details.

"Dry brushing" is quite literally using a wide brush to apply almost dried paint (usually in a color lighter than the basic paint hue of the kit) to weather the model and highlight the edges. Sadly, my experience is that a brush used for this purpose deteriorates over time. Pastel chalk is used for the same purpose. It could be ground to powder and drybrushed, or applied directly onto the edges of your model.

You might want to consider getting an airbrush and compressor rig. I dare say there really is no substitute for it. There are several advantages. Paint can be applied more evenly, and in far narrower areas than a spray can. Plus, it is cheaper in the long run.

I use a toothpick too. But yes, paint tends to dry quite quickly. But there are just some areas you cant reach even with the smallest paint brushes. But patience is indeed a virtue, and Im sure youll get the hang of it.

Hope this helps!

Howdy Fred, welcome to the forum.

For washes I prefer to use a sludge wash which is acyrlic paste paint mixed with lots of water and a drop or two of liquid dish soap. When applied over a clear coat or Future coat it flows into all the recesses and dries quickly. Then it can be wiped with a damp cloth to remove excess from top areas and leaves a great look behind. One really nice feature of it is if you screw up you can wash it off with water and start over again without messing up your model.

For dry brushing I have a few brushes set aside just for that kind of work. When you are done with a brush clean it well then get a little soap on your finger and reform the brush tip to it's normal look - let dry that way. When you want to use it again dampen with water and wipe the soap away. You r brushes will stay nice for a long time this way.

For really fine detail I have two brushes that have only a few hairs on them and I use a magnifying visor to help see what I'm doing. Having your paints properly thinned is important also.

Having an airbrush is a great thing. If you cannot afford a compressor look into renting a can of CO2 from a welding supply shop. Monthly can rentals genreally run around $5.00/month and the gas is cheap. Be sure to get a regulator if you do that.

Check my website (link in the signiture) and you will find several articles on weathering and useful techniques. Also look at the links page for many sites that can provide more useful information.

Always happy to assist.

Fred-look into some cheap make-up "blush" brushes for applying pastels. Also, fine brushes are expensive, but worth it, just take the time to clean them well and reshape the point using a little spit.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Swanny When you are done with a brush clean it well then get a little soap on your finger and reform the brush tip to it's normal look - let dry that way. When you want to use it again dampen with water and wipe the soap away. You r brushes will stay nice for a long time this way.

I have never heard of doing that Swanny. Sounds like a good idea.
Once again your tips are an asset to this forum my friend.

I always wet the tip of the brush and smooth it to a point with my fingers and then put the plastic brush protector back over it. Will the soap trick make them last even longer than doing this?

Mike

Soap is good for long term storage but I've found a little saliva works great for day-to-day storage