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Super-glue? clear parts...!

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7 replies
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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, December 13, 2003 10:24 AM
I use two methods, one for small parts and the other for larger parts.

Small parts - Use Tamiya Clear acrylic. Also excellent for simulating guage glass on
instrument panels and dashboards. I always use this for wind screens
and clear head light covers on 1/43 cars.

Larger parts - Use G-S Hypo-Tube Cement , available from Micro-Mark. Also good for
attaching tiny PE and resin parts that need fussy alignment.

Both dry crystal clear and will never fog clear parts. Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]

Pete
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Maine,USA
Posted by dubix88 on Saturday, December 13, 2003 8:23 AM
HEY,
I use the testors clear parts cement. It works great on my cars, plus it is easy to use.

Randy
THATS MY VOTE "If a woman has to choose between catching a fly ball and saving infant's life, she will choose to save the infant's life without even considering if there is a man on base." -Dave Barry In the words of the great Larry the Cable Guy, "GIT-R-DONE!!!"
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: polystyreneville
Posted by racingmaniac on Friday, December 12, 2003 9:43 PM
I've also used the clear enamel paint method to attach clear parts, but mainly go with the white glue. It cleans up easier than the enamel paint.

Ken
that which doesn't make us irate or irritated, has probably been thrown against the wall.
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Washington State
Posted by leemitcheltree on Sunday, November 30, 2003 9:08 AM
Bwog,
I've used CA for many years to attach canopies - never had one fog yet.
Make sure you coat the canopy in Future and use TINY drops of CA to attach the canopy, allowing one to dry before you apply the next - I use this method when the canopy is wider or narrower than the cockpit.
If they fit really well, I use Future as a glue. Or sometimes white glue. I've even used paint to attach a particularly well fitting canopy.
I guess the thing is to experiment a little so you can figure out which method is best in which situation.
Cheers
LeeTree

Cheers, LeeTree
Remember, Safety Fast!!!

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Stockton CA USA
Posted by roosterfish on Saturday, November 29, 2003 11:06 PM
Believe it or not I use Future Floor Wax to glue clear parts to models. I coat the part with Future which make the part nice and shiny. When it comes to gluing the part I put the pieces together and wick the seam(s) with Future. The Future dries hard and if I get excess on the parts I just wipe it off with my finger. My clear parts never fog.
Winners never quit; quitters never win.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Dahlonega, Georgia
Posted by lizardqing on Saturday, November 29, 2003 9:56 PM
Bwog , I had one drop fall on a windshield of a vette and it ruined it. Try using white glue like eric said or the testors window cement. I have even seen some say that you can use future to attach the windows.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA, GA
Posted by erush on Saturday, November 29, 2003 9:45 PM
Hey Bwog, There's no guarentee when using CA glue on clear parts but some say if you coat it with future first it's not as bad. Also go very sparing if you use it. The fumes are what crazes the plastic so you could also try keeping it in front of a fan or something but again, no guarentees with CA. Most just use white glue or watch crytal cement or something like that.

Eric
Hi, I'm Eric and I'm a Modelholic too. I think I have PE poisioning.     "Friendly fire...isn't"
  • Member since
    August 2003
Super-glue? clear parts...!
Posted by Bwog on Saturday, November 29, 2003 8:24 PM
Are there any tried and true means of attaching clear plastic parts (canopy wind-screen)...without crazing the clear part? I'm building an A-7E and dont want one with condisation on the windscreen...

thanks for your help,
bw
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