Can you fill or smoothen some gaps without putty?

if there fine lines ive heard about using Tip ex or super glue

#1 Use superglue and accelerator. You must sand the glue right after the accelerator is applied because it will get too hard in five to ten minutes and will then make life difficult.

#2 Use an acetone based white-out or typerwriter correction fluid. Let dry then sand gently.

#3 Melt slivers of plastic into the seam with liquid glue like Tenex 7R then sand.

#4 Use an on-line hobby shop to buy some putty.

I've used sandable wood filler but it does shrink-so make your application a bit proud.

demono69 told me to use superglue and nail polish remover for the gaps on my X-1. Now I am not sure exactly how to use the remover. I heard some mumblings about superglue getting to hard to sand andremover helps with getting the excess off of the model. Don't know if this is any help at all to you or not.

Demankat

Actually, Kris is partially right. I've been using CA Gap Filling glue, but sand it down before it hardens, or you'll never get a smooth line. Don't know where the Polish Remover came into this. Great for putties, useless for CA work.

Depending on the severity of the gap, white glue can be a great filler too. Just wipe off the excess with a Q-tip dipped in hot water.

Regards,

-Drew

QUOTE: Originally posted by Demankat demono69 told me to use superglue and nail polish remover for the gaps on my X-1. Now I am not sure exactly how to use the remover. I heard some mumblings about superglue getting to hard to sand andremover helps with getting the excess off of the model. Don't know if this is any help at all to you or not. Demankat

The nail polish remover may be what they are using as an accelerator. An accelerator causes the glue to set up RIGHT NOW. A by product of this is heat which is not a problem in small quantities. The glue will set immediately then harden over the next five to ten minutes. You want to do your sanding before it gets completely hard or you will find yourself sanding off the plastic but not the glue. Dip a brush into the accelerator and touch it to the glue or near the glue and allow it to run onto the glued spot.

hi the best answer is to use the kit sprue and stretch over a heat source ie candle or bunsen flame , as it it melts pull away from flame and pull both ends till you obtain the thickness you want leave to cool then use , this can be laid in gap and glued in the normal way , if it is a hole then pull it through till it fills and glue it , when hard cut off and sand , i always use a different colour sprue as this show up better , cheers ian

I like to use Mr. Surfacer for small gaps or where there is detail I don't want to lose. Put it on with a brush,let dry for a short time, and remove excess with nail polish remover or Mr. Color thinner. Works for me.

What is the best technique for this when dealing with long seams?

specifically a plane's fuselage, wing leading edges and nose cone.

I am building a P-61. After building several aircraft, I would finally like to build one that did not look like a model!

I have read something about gluing both parts, waiting for them to get "molten" before sticking them together, followed by sanding thus removing the seam.

The other is "use gap filling cement" and let it run down the seam. Then sand the surface.

But in most cases, there is no gap, just a long unnatural line that no amount of sanding will make dissappear.

QUOTE: Originally posted by ngc7293` What is the best technique for this when dealing with long seams? specifically a plane's fuselage, wing leading edges and nose cone.

Go to my site (link below) and read the section about seam repair. Step by step instructions and pictures. I think it will help you out.

QUOTE: Originally posted by ngc7293` What is the best technique for this when dealing with long seams? specifically a plane's fuselage, wing leading edges and nose cone. I am building a P-61. After building several aircraft, I would finally like to build one that did not look like a model! I have read something about gluing both parts, waiting for them to get "molten" before sticking them together, followed by sanding thus removing the seam. The other is "use gap filling cement" and let it run down the seam. Then sand the surface. But in most cases, there is no gap, just a long unnatural line that no amount of sanding will make dissappear.

Here's the best site I've seen on this very topic. It's a page from the Aircraft Resource Center's "Tools 'n Tips" section (one of the links in the top frame of their site). After you click on "Tools 'n Tips," click on "Filling," and then "Gluing and filling, Beginner's guide to fuselage assembling by Steve Wilder" (or just click on the link in this post).

I've read similar tips in FSM too, so this isn't some oddball way of doing things. Essentially, the author of that article advocates using liquid glue that melts the plastic a bit. After that happens, the modeler should squeeze the fuselage halves together and squeeze out some of the melted plastic. Let it dry, and then scrape and sand off the squeezed out stuff and you have a smooth seam.

I tried this for the first time on my Monogram F-4J model, and I've very happy with the results.

Regards,

-Drew