1. There was an article on PE in a couple issues back in FSM. Check there for info.
2. Cut PE from the mount with a sharp cutter or X-acto knife. Chisel tips work real well.
Hold onto the piece or secure it with a piece of tape to keep it from flying. Once detached, the piece will need to be sanded/filed to remove the smal edges where the connection was made. I like coarse grit sandpaper, or a needle file to do that.
3. If the piece needs to be curled (such as a screen over a muffler or exhaust pipe), heat the piece briefly ( a few seconds) using a match or torch. This will anneal the metal, making it easier to form.
4. When bending, and if you dont have a bending machine, use the chisel tip or a single edge razor to hold the piece at the bend line. Then slip your X-acto or another razor blade under the piece and bend upwards.
5. Use a cyanoacrylate (CA) glue (super glue, Zap-a-Gap, etc.) to attach the PE to the kit. If the kit already has paint on it, you can glue directly over the paint with no problems, or you can remove the paint and then apply the part. Some folks attach PE with paint, white glue, and fingernail polish. You can try them, but I still think CA is the best. 2-part epoxy will also work.
6. If attaching PE to PE, again use a CA product, but first take a piece of sandpaper and scuff the surface of the PE to give the joint some tooth. Eduard PE sets have what appears to be a protective oxide coating on their sets. Sand it off if attaching PE to itself.
7. Once applied, paint away. If you are using a gloss base coat, you may want to prime any bare metal before application
This is what has worked for me. Hope it helps.
Gip Winecoff