Ballast for the nose??

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Ballast for the nose??

Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 14, 2003 9:59 PM

I know this may seem silly to all of the salty modelers, but what does everyone use for nose ballast in aircraft?? I've tried to use some of the lead weights for pine car racing, but the shapes are limited and too large for my 1:48 models. Any suggestions would be wonderful, as it seems to be a topic not widely touched upon, and I would like to close up the noses of a couple of aircraft soon. Sign - With Stupid [#wstupid]

Reply
Edit

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 14, 2003 10:02 PM

I use small metal beads wrapped in a ball of putty, stick it in while the putty is still wet, of course does not work for planes with windows in front.
Wink [;)]

Reply
Edit

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 14, 2003 10:14 PM

Lead fising weights are also good for tight spaces. You can flatten them with a hammer or cut them in half with ease. I imagine there is probably a fishing equipment store nearby, noting your location. People (like me) who live in the snow regions can probably find them cheaper this time of year.
Hope this helps !

Reply
Edit

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 14, 2003 11:43 PM

I've used nuts and bolts, marbles, usually secured with hot glue. I've also used putty or plastersine. Depends on what I've got handy and the amount of space I have to work with.

Reply
Edit

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, December 15, 2003 4:28 AM

I use small, lead fishing split shot as ballast. Normally I just glue them in the nose with Elmer's white glue, but for irregular noses I use a pair of vise grips to flatten the shot down. I try to get it as thin as possible; that way it can be "molded" to fit the interior contour. Hope this helps.

Reply
Edit

dubix88

Member since
March 2003
From: Maine,USA

Posted by dubix88 on Monday, December 15, 2003 6:17 AM

HEY,
You could probably use BB's also.. They are easily flattened, but they are already pretty small.

Randy

THATS MY VOTE "If a woman has to choose between catching a fly ball and saving infant's life, she will choose to save the infant's life without even considering if there is a man on base." -Dave Barry In the words of the great Larry the Cable Guy, "GIT-R-DONE!!!"

Reply

hkshooter

Member since
December 2003
From: Indiana

Posted by hkshooter on Monday, December 15, 2003 8:11 AM

BB's are not a bad idea but not steel ones. Get lead if possible as they are heavier. I use #6 lead shot. This can be found at finer gunstores that carry reloading componets. After you assemble the fuselage halves (or before, depending on the model) these heavy little shot can be poured into the nose in any volume you need then glued in place with silicone rubber or superglue. I've been using them for years. Just make sure to get all the shot soaked good with glue or you may get a "straggler" that may wonder around the interior when the model is handled.

Reply

MikeV

Member since
April 2003
From: Hayward, CA

Posted by MikeV on Monday, December 15, 2003 8:57 AM

Something that is very heavy but not very cheap in comparison to lead is the new Tungsten fishing weights that are all the rage here for bass fishermen. They are quite a bit smaller than their equivalent lead counterpart.

Mike

“Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon

Reply

shrikes

Member since
November 2003
From: Manila, Philippines

Posted by shrikes on Monday, December 15, 2003 11:11 AM

I use those lead (i think) CO2 airgun bullets...they're the ones with a hollowed out base. they're real easy to flatten with a hammer (and great fun too)! tape them together and secure with hot glue. Then again, i don't get to use this very often since i build more tail draggers than tricycle gear aircraft. Smile [:)]

Blackadder: This plan's as cunning as a fox that used to be Professor of cunning at Oxford University but has now moved on and is working with the U.N at the high commission of cunning planning

Reply

wayne baker

Member since
February 2003
From: Medina, Ohio

Posted by wayne baker on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 3:36 PM

I use #6 shot poured into a mix of 5 minute epoxy. I put it any place it will fit forward of the main gear, engine nacelles, bulkheads. I coated the rear cabin bulkhead of the Monogram 1/48th Huey so it would sit on the skids properly.

I may get so drunk, I have to crawl home. But dammit, I'll crawl like a Marine.

Reply

jridge

Member since
April 2003
From: West Des Moines, IA USA

Posted by jridge on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 4:02 PM

You can also buy weights designed for a specific aircraft. They fit in gear wells, etc. - out of sight. They eliminate all the guess work. Contact Terry Dean, e-mail: nightiemission@aol.com. Great guy to work with. Very reasonable prices. He is continually expanding his inventory. Do a search on www.google.com for "nose weights" to see some of his weights and read some reviews.

Jim

Jim The fate of the Chambermaid http://30thbg.1hwy.com/38thBS.html

Reply

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, December 17, 2003 4:36 PM

I'm surprised that nobody mentioned material that is easiest to find of all- common old ordinary SOLDER. Comes on a spool, it's easily shaped to go where you want it, and it isn't that expensive. Unless you build a lot of 'tailsitters', it should last you quite a while.

Since I also cast bullets, it's not to hard for me to find an appropriately shaped 'weight' to put in a nose.

Kent

Reply
Edit

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, December 17, 2003 9:10 PM

Thank you EVERYONE!!! That was all extremely helpful. I may try all of the above, just to decide which one will fit me the best. I should have thought of beating the lead weights I got for the pine car into a decent shape, I never even considered beating it, but it sure sounds like it will be a blast to beat some lead into submission....Thanks again, and I look forward to posting the finished products on the forum!!

Reply
Edit

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 21, 2003 10:02 AM

i used the stick on wheel weights they use on aluminum wheels. they come in various weights, so you know exactly how much weight you have in the nose. If you are working in a small area, lead shot will fill in nicely.

Reply
Edit

Quagmyre

Member since
December 2003
From: and just won't go away.

Posted by Quagmyre on Tuesday, December 23, 2003 12:23 AM

Chewing gum in the nose of my P-38 (few sticks of well chewed Juicy Fruit did the trick).

Didn't work on the B-29. Shoulda gone with a whole pack of Big League Chew. Probably gonna take less of a kludged approach to the B-29 actually since it is a cut-away.

Melting fishing line weights into plates then ever so carefully applying in reclusive areas on the model still warm to the touch so as to stick to the interior, but not melt it, was an old trick my father mentioned he used to use.

Current and Subsequent Projects:
1/48 scale Tamiya P-47 "Razorback" - Complete
1/48 scale Testors/Lone Star Models PT-22 Recruit - 20% Complete
1/48 scale Monogram C-47 Skytrain - Not Started

Reply

qmiester

Member since
May 2003
From: Central USA

Posted by qmiester on Friday, December 26, 2003 7:19 PM

About 10 years ago I had to balance the ruddervators off of a Bonanza. The process involves balancing the item by pouring bird shot into a paper cup and weighing the cup at a certain point in the process. When it was over I ended up with bunch of 25 lb bags of #6 lead birdshot of which I brought one home. I still have about 8 lbs of the stuff left and use it for nose weights (works great with Elmers glue) and use it also to help mix paint. (Just put a dozen or so in with the paint and shake - BB's also work but not with acrylics - they rust and screw up the paint)

Quincy

Reply

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, December 27, 2003 12:27 PM

Depending on the size of the model, (and what country you are in), I use pennies and clay.

Lately, I managed to find a package of lead weights. Their only disadvantage is the hooks that were molded in with them. Once I cut off the hook though, I had an easy handle for bashing the lead.

Reply
Edit

chopperfan

Member since
November 2003
From: Oklahoma

Posted by chopperfan on Saturday, December 27, 2003 12:54 PM

I, like Kent, cast my own bullets. So I don't have too much of a problem fitting the nose or under the nose with lead weight.
I use wheel weights for my lead. At the present I have 400 lbs. in 1 lb. ingots and another 350 lbs. of weights waiting to be processed!!!! Big Smile [:D]

One can NEVER have too much bullet casting lead!!!!

Randie Cowboy [C):-)]

Randie [C):-)]Agape Models

Without them? The men on the ground would have to work a lot harder. You can help. Please keep 'em flying! http://www.airtanker.com/

Reply

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, January 14, 2004 1:43 PM

Wrap silly putty around a metal nut and stick - easy peasy!

Reply
Edit

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 15, 2004 3:07 AM

I use the lead weights that are used for fishing lines. Works great for me. HTH

Reply
Edit

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 15, 2004 10:06 AM

I do something much simpler...
MODEL WITH THE GEARS UP!!

But, if you REALLY want to model gears-down, I'd use the same lead shot everyone else has been suggesting.

Reply
Edit

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 15, 2004 2:02 PM

Just a thought for the glass nosed stuff.(B-29 B-24etc.) Put the weights behind the engines, since that is generally forward of the center of gravity of the aircraft and generally is empty space on a model,however it will require more weight as it is closer to the cg.

Reply
Edit

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, February 11, 2004 2:14 PM

Believe it or not I have found candle wax is not bad as a weight, it can be driped in a small area and works well as a fixative for lead shot or BB's. It ill not hurt the plastic and fills an area very well. Its also cheap Big Smile [:D]

Reply
Edit

MusicCity

Member since
January 2004
From: USA

Posted by MusicCity on Wednesday, February 11, 2004 2:57 PM

If you want nasty, dirty lead try local tire shops. They usually throw away the lead wheel weights they pull off , and most places will give you all they you want. Downfall is that they are usually dirty and nasty and have a steel piece in the middle that clips to the wheel. If you aren't real picky it's a cheap place to get them.

Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page

Reply

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 12, 2004 8:29 AM

I use the lead beads sold in diver stores for use in "soft lead belts" mixed with glue. its cheeper than BB ammo, and easy to get a hold of.

// Claes

Reply
Edit

ajlafleche

Member since
December 2002
From: Massachusetts

Posted by ajlafleche on Thursday, February 12, 2004 11:30 AM

Window sealing putty from the hardware store. Cheap, extremely malleable, no effect on plastic, dense. Just stuff everywher you can't see. Fits in the tightest spaces imaginable. If you put too much in, it stays soft so you can clean it off withthe edge of a knife or your fingers.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

Reply

DaveB.inVa

Member since
September 2003

Posted by DaveB.inVa on Thursday, February 12, 2004 11:44 PM

I use 50 caliber lead balls, the kind used for muzzleloaders. You can flatten them with a hammer and then you can cut them into the size you want. If those little chunks are still too big you can flatten them as well. You can get these balls at walmart, they are made by Hornady in a small red box and can be had in .32, .45, .50, .54, and .58 calibers. Theyre usually pretty cheap too, cheaper than sinkers per pound!

Fighter pilots make movies. Bomber pilots make history.

Reply

KJ200

Member since
July 2003
From: Bicester, England

Posted by KJ200 on Tuesday, February 17, 2004 6:09 AM

I use nuts from the local hardware store as they come in a variety of sizes, and are generally pretty heavy.

And being hezagonal they usually sit easily in fusalages and behind engine cowlings. I usually hold them in with a few spots of super glue.

Karl

Currently on the bench: AZ Models 1/72 Mig 17PF

Reply

Texgunner

Member since
February 2003
From: Cameron, Texas

Posted by Texgunner on Thursday, February 19, 2004 12:00 PM

I've use lead shot mixed with 2-part epoxy; this is good for filling odd shaped spaces. I've also used spent bullets, which fit very well in the nose cones of modern aircraft. As a shooter with my own place in the country to shoot, I've literally got thousands laying around(or just under the ground) at my "range". Simply epoxy the bullet into the nose. Good luck, Gary.

"All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!"

Reply

THE MAGAZINE

CONTACT US

RECENT ARTICLES

POPULAR TOPICS

RECENT REVIEWS

POPULAR TOPICS

RECENT REVIEWS

POPULAR TOPICS

RECENT VIDEOS

POPULAR TOPICS

RECENT THREADS

CATEGORIES

NEW PRODUCTS

OUR STORE

CURRENT ISSUE

SEARCH FINESCALE.COM