Thinning Squadron White Putty

Cellulose thinners, or possibly acetone should work. I usually mix a batch of filler (3M) with cellulose thinners & store it in a used Tamiya paint jar - most of them tend to work a bit better thinned & I never use the straight from the tube.

The only thing to watch out for is that after thinned, they don't give the extended working time you might expect, as they will skin pretty quickly.

I've mixed with acetone before with success.

Try nail polisher remover, the kind with acetone in it, its prethinned and ready to use. One bottle will last a long, long time.

What is the difference between the white, red and a green squadron putty? When is the optimal time to use each?

What are the mixing ratios for thinning putty?  What is the consistency one is looking for in a successfully thinned putty?

Thanks

I use acetone to thin Squadron putty.  I use two methods.

One is to apply the putty, work it into the areas that need to be filled, and then dip a cotton swab--one with a pressed paper shaft, not a plastic shaft--in acetone and use it to wipe away the excess.  In doing so, wipe across the seam or gap, so as not to remove any of the putty, but to keep it in the seam.  This also reduces the amount of sanding required.  Here is a shot of a P-51 that I am building; I applied putty this way just last night:

The other is to put a blob of putty in a non-reactive (glass, ceramic or metal) vessel or container--I use a well in my ceramic palette--then add drops of acetone and stir with a toothpick, until you get the consistency you want.  I call this "homemade Mr. Surfacer".  I use an old brush to apply it to the area to be filled.  As the putty dries out on or in your palette/plate/jar/shot glas, you can add more acetone to it, to keep the solution going.  I use an eye dropper to add the liquid, in this case.

I must disagree, respectfully, with those who recommend nail polish remover.  Yes, many brands use acetone, but they can include scents, and since they're typically dilute solutions, you're not getting as much acetone for your money as you would if you bought a can of it at the hardware store.  If a small bottle of nail polish remover will last a long time, a bigger can of acetone in a more concentrated solution will last even longer.  But, to each, his own, as it were.

Hope that helps!

Best regards,

Brad

I've used a few drops of Testors liquid cement.  It's pretty smooth, but the putty still suffers from shrinkage.  I'l have to try acetone.

acetone-based nail polish remover works good. It cna crack sometimes though. I generally use it as part of a mud slurry for armor.

Brad, I use the exact two methods that you described with diluting the putty.

I hear you about the acetone, you defintiely will get more for your money if you bought it in the hardward store. It's just that the nail polish remover is already diluted, is in a small container, and yes sometimes it smells nice! :).  In either case, its cheap enough for a bottle of nail polish that will last me a few years.  But no disagreement from me that if you aren't as lazy as me, getting acetone from the hardware store definitely is cheaper in the long run.

Dan the Man

What is the difference between the white, red and a green squadron putty? When is the optimal time to use each?

I don't know anything about red putty, but as far as I know the white was introduced after green to help with paint coverage, as dependant on what you are working on, it may be easier to cover / hide. The color difference is the only difference between them.

my theory is the green is for use on white plastic, so you can see what you're sanding. Red putty... are you talking about bondo spot and glazing putty? Because that's what I primarily use.  Regular bondo does a better job, but is a pain to mix repeatedly and more toxic.

I don't know how well it works with squadron putty but when i was building models as a kid i seem to remember using denatured alcohol on a cotton swab to clean up the seams. I think back then i was using the testors brand putty in a grey tube.If the gap is fairly large i typically don't thin the squadron stuff too much but use the triangle shaped tamiya swabs dipped in acetone to get rid of the residual stuff. Other than that i agree with everyone else about thinning prior to application.

I find Acetone to be a bit Harsh on the Styrene. A little more so than the Filler.

How about Model Master Thinner for Metalizer or Thinner?

Old thread, right? But still relevant.

I stopped using Squadron putty a long time ago. I get better results with Bondo glazing compound.

GMorrison

Old thread, right? But still relevant.

 

I stopped using Squadron putty a long time ago. I get better results with Bondo glazing compound.

 

Absoloutely correct on the glazing putty, great stuff, and lacquer thinner or acetone works with that too. Yes, old thread it is.......

cadillac

I find Acetone to be a bit Harsh on the Styrene. A little more so than the Filler.

How about Model Master Thinner for Metalizer or Thinner?