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cutting thin brass rod

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  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
cutting thin brass rod
Posted by EBergerud on Tuesday, April 12, 2011 2:23 AM

Am facing a simple problem that I have no idea have to solve. I'd like to cut small pieces of thin brass tubing: let's say .5mm in maybe 1mm length pieces. Wire cutters will cut me a piece with no problem, but they destroy the tube in the process. I have a small hack will leave something like a tube remaining but it's very slow the results irregular. Any ideas appreciated.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Tuesday, April 12, 2011 2:49 AM

For something that thin (0.5mm) you could lay the tube flat on a hard smooth surface and use a hobby knife or single-edge razor blade and cut it with a rolling action. Roll the tube back and forth while maintaining a downward pressure with the blade. Just watch out as it cuts through because the cut piece will launch itself into oblivion.

Another option is to use a fine-cut triangular jeweller's file.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, April 12, 2011 8:36 AM

That K&S tubing is hardened, and will break pretty clean (just the brass- the aluminum is soft).  Do as the one post says, and roll the tubing with an X-acto blade.  But you do do not need to cut all the way through that way- just roll enough that you have a good score line all the way around. Then, bending the tubing will break it at the score line.

You can also use the thin cutoff disk in a Dremel tool, but that leaves a more ragged edge than the scoring method.

The aluminum is soft enough that you can cut all the way through using the "roll with X-acto knife" method.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Tuesday, April 12, 2011 8:47 AM

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Wednesday, April 13, 2011 7:01 PM

Eric, if you are talking about the Lion Roar tubing, rolling it with edge of a hobby knife s that way to go.  That's Mike the Ruddrat told me and it works like a charm.

Marc  

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Wednesday, April 13, 2011 7:13 PM

I just watched Gerald's video...do that.   And if you want one of these reamers, a buddy is going to a show this weekend and will see the tool lady I got this from.  The point actually fits inside the end of the Lion Roar .5MM tubes

Marc  

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Thursday, April 14, 2011 7:06 PM

Thanks much for the tips. The knife method works very nicely - glad the blades are cheap. (Don't think I'm a natural at this. I'd guess it would have taken me about thirty years to figure that one out.) Still wonder how people do that in quantity - it would take a while to make enough of those to rig a biplane. Suppose it would go fast with practice. Or maybe something like one of these "chopper gizmos" or a miter box and very sharp jewelers saw.

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by DoogsATX on Thursday, April 14, 2011 7:19 PM

Rolling action FTW!

As for cleaning out the ends...that reamer looks pretty sweet. Personally, I've been using an old .3mm needle out of my Iwata HP-C+. I swear that thing is to my modeling what a paperclip is to MacGuyver's life.

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by TankBusters on Thursday, April 28, 2011 4:05 PM

Hi fella's, a bit of a newbie here when working with tubing. I just watched the above video and I would like to know where to get a "cutting mat" such as in this video. I do all of my cutting on my wooden work bench but I believe that a mat like this will really help me in the long run. Are they available on line? I just bought some sheet styrene and various other styrene structural beams etc. at a local Hobby shop ( a place called "Train Buddies") I am wondering if they carry these mats??? I also am going to work with my very first PE parts on my next build, am I in for a shock??

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Thursday, April 28, 2011 4:15 PM

Self healing cutting mats are available at ALL craft stores, most hobby and office supply stores, they come in sizes from 3"x3" to full desktop size. Not all that expensive either.

Read the posts about working with PE...knowledge is power!

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Thursday, April 28, 2011 6:36 PM

The techniques described for cutting brass rod do work nicely and could be very valuable on other projects. However, "Bob's Buckles" in the UK makes both buckles and brass sleeves for very little money. (I forgot my supply in California or I would have simply used those.)  I might learn to make my own buckles but you use a lot of those sleeves and it would take a long time to cut them. I did, however, get a much better suggestion from Doog. I got some "midge" sized rubber tubing from a fly fishing shop: .5mm - exactly the right width. You cut it with an Xacto to the desired length and paint them bronze when done. Works like a charm. Maybe not perfectly uniform, but you'd need an electron microscope to tell.

Those cutting boards look the part and I'd like one. But for working on tubing or cutting PE I can't imagine anything working as well as glass. Size 11 blades or razor blades are almost free and a cheapo glass picture frame is all you'd need. I've used very hard plexiglass and standard glass is far better.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: SURREY ,B.C.
Posted by krow113 on Monday, May 2, 2011 12:53 AM

Excellent info here  . If any one can offer suggestions on the cutting of stainless steel mini tube I would be all ears , um I mean eyes...

Thank you ,Krow113

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Monday, May 2, 2011 11:32 PM

TankBusters

Hi fella's, a bit of a newbie here when working with tubing. I just watched the above video and I would like to know where to get a "cutting mat" such as in this video. I do all of my cutting on my wooden work bench but I believe that a mat like this will really help me in the long run. Are they available on line? I just bought some sheet styrene and various other styrene structural beams etc. at a local Hobby shop ( a place called "Train Buddies") I am wondering if they carry these mats??? I also am going to work with my very first PE parts on my next build, am I in for a shock??

 As Hawkeye said, those mats are readily avaliable at almost every craft store, probably cheaper than any hobby shop. However, I would highly, HIGHLY recommend using a sheet of 1/4" glass as a main work surface. It may cost a little more to have a piece cut for you, but well worth it. Works great for cutting against, little PE parts don't get sprung off of it. No matter what your work surface is, you're gonna make a mess on it! With the glass, just swipe a razor blade across it and it's clean!

I use a piece, roughly 24" X 14", with a cutting mat (for the angles) underneath. It's also great for sliding instruction paint charts under.

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