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The Real Future Wax: opinions, trials, pain and suffering

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  • Member since
    April 2011
The Real Future Wax: opinions, trials, pain and suffering
Posted by Fatalgrace on Sunday, May 29, 2011 7:18 PM

First, I've come back to modeling after a long break, and I do not claim to have the professional experience or all of the absolute answers. But after building about 5 models recently, I feel that the complete mess that ive gone through on the last couple of cases needs comment. I'm sure that many will disagree.

 

I realize that there are many tools of the trade that are OMG worthy: Bare Metal, Alclad, PE, etc. Future wax is NOT one of them. My education concerning Future has gone through Swanny's publication, FSM articles, etc, etc, etc. It's benefits include protection, sealant, anti-silvering of decals and more. As for me, Future is for one thing and one thing only: dipping canopies and clear parts in and placing them on a piece of paper towel and letting it sit until it goes on the model. 

I have airbrushed future on each model before and after decaling in hopes of achieving that "candy coated" mirror like shine, especially to scale cars. After spending an hour or more stripping the future from my Mustang I am done with it. I had a great shine on a lacquer coat and then came the Future. "Oh yeah, this is gonna really make this shine mile deep" , I thought. Oh no. Please know, as we say in surgery, the enemy of good is better. after giving it a 48 hr dry time I came back to it only to wonder "where the f%^% did the shine go???!!?" Well, it was underneath the future coat. this has happened on 3 cars since March. I don't care if you airbrush it at 40 , 20, 10, or 0 psi, all I can say is good luck.

What is the true miracle compound? Windex, because it strips future. Yes , future is great on clear parts. If you have an enamel or lacquer that looks perfect, LEAVE IT PERFECT. Use MicroSol for decals, it deals with silvering just fine. 

From now on my method for autos will be Testors One-Coat( although it takes about 5) Lacquer and Wet Look Clear at the end if you want to take it above the bar.

Hope I didn't offend Future die-hards too badly. And I'm probably doing something wrong but this has been my experience.

Thanks

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Phoenix, AZ
Posted by Fly-n-hi on Tuesday, June 7, 2011 7:49 AM

jdice1980
I was not at all impressed with Future after using it to dip clear parts. After removing my mask I found a sticky mess with impressions from the texture of the Tamiya tape embedded in the parts. I don’t know if I let the Future dry long enough, but I would hope the 48 hours I did give it would have been sufficient.

You dipped the part in the Future after you masked it?  You're supposed to dip it before you mask it.  You did in fact let it dry enough but the tape soaks up the future and leaves an impression on the canopy.

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Thursday, October 27, 2011 4:26 PM

My problem with the stuff is this. I used to wax my cars with it . Now all it seems to want to do is " FISHEYE " on all the surfaces I put it on.So I now use for floors .      tankerbuilder    P.S. it,s almost like they DID change the formula ?

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Thursday, October 27, 2011 4:40 PM

I agree, Future is for floors and maybe dipping canopies.  I have found it leaves a blotchy, uneven shine if applied as a final coat to a model.  Hand brushed, air brushed, whatever, I have never been pleased with the results.  Testor's clear lacquer in a rattle can works fine for me.

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by 68GT on Saturday, October 29, 2011 11:21 AM

I use a bunch of very light coats and get good results.

On Ed's bench, ???

  

  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: Mpls., Mn.
Posted by f-4phantom on Monday, October 31, 2011 7:50 PM

Future is great for clear parts. It is also great for floors. Beyond that, I agree with the majority here. Bang Head

 

  • Member since
    March 2010
Posted by stcat on Tuesday, November 1, 2011 11:50 AM

I too have had Future tribulations...heh.

Went back to the Testors rattle can.  I just can't seem to get Future to airbrush well for me.  Must be a genetic skill  Big Smile

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Democratic Peoples Republic of Illinois
Posted by Hercmech on Tuesday, November 1, 2011 12:11 PM

Never had an issue with it and mixed with tamyia flat makes a great final coat.


13151015

  • Member since
    July 2009
Posted by COLDIRON on Friday, November 4, 2011 7:00 PM

When I dip canopies in future, I put it in a container for at least 2 weeks before I will even touch it again with a tweezer much less mask it.  48 hours is not nearly enough time to mess with a part DIPPED in future.

I apply future by making a run from 4 different directions of the model then letting it sit for 5 minutes.  Then I coat again, let it sit for 5 minutes and do it again.  Sometimes I will take a hair dryer to it in order to reactivate it a bit to level it out more once I've done my 3 coats.  Then I recoat after 8 hours.  It usually takes at least 2-3 sessions for the surface to be smooth enough for decals.  When I do a plane I have to of course flip it over, so the pre-decal coatings are a total of 4-6 sessions with another 2-4 sessions after decaling.  Then I wait 24-48 hours and hit it with a clear flat lacquer and call it good.  I usually put the future on at around 20 or so PSI.

Future is a true wonder weapon.  You can make clear parts much better, mix with talcum powder to form a sandable filler, and you can brush it on really heavy/multiple coats and wetsand it to use as a surfacer.

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