new to detailing: Washes, finishes, and paints, ooh my.

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, February 4, 2004 5:29 AM

QUOTE: Originally posted by rudie

This site explains what a oil wash is.

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1/001-100/TNT043_oil-wash_Johnson/tnt043.htm

That is exactly what I was looking for! Thanks.

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thevinman

Member since
December 2003
From: CT - USA

Posted by thevinman on Friday, January 30, 2004 7:23 PM

Thanks for practically eliminating all of my troubled thought with weathering, Vinman!
Where could I get my hands on some Future? I live on the west coast (what that has to do with getting future, i dont know).

Check out swanny’s site for that. It’s in his signature in the post above.

Is decal setting solution advisable?

Decal setting solutions are used for two things – to improve decal adhesion and to literally melt the decal to conform to odd shapes or impressions such as panels lines. If you want the decal to look painted on, then use the solutions. Do a forum search on “decal solutions” and you’ll find most of what you need to know. If you’re still wondering about stuff, feel free ask away.

And is testors or model masters model laquer-buff or non buff a good brand for flat/semi-gloss?
(whats better, buff or non?)

I’m assuming that you are referring to buff metalizers. They are special metallic paints that you can buff to get different effects like polished aluminum for example. You can also mask and buff different panels to get varying effects that can look great on aluminum skinned aircraft. I haven’t used them yet, so I will defer to more experienced modeler’s for more advice on that.

Whats a good primer, just white enamel? (i dont like painting with acryls)

Why don’t you like to use acrylics? I use them almost exclusively. I use light gray most of the time, but your primer color may depend on the overall color of your aircraft. For example, if your aircraft is yellow, you might not want to use dark primer because yellows tend to be thin colors and it may be tough to get coverage and the dark primer will show through making the yellow seem very dark. In that case I would use a light colored primer. On the other hand, if you aircraft is dark or you are building armor, then a black or dark primer will give you a deeper, darker effect that you might be looking for.

I read that some people use automotive primer...does it retail at kragen, etc?

Sure, you can use automotive primer. I’ve heard it works good. I use model master enamel primer when I use enamels. If you go the automotive primer route, you can easily get it into your airbrush by first spraying the primer into a can or some container and then pouring the wet paint into your air brush. I would not advise spraying right from the can because you don’t get a good level of control. You can get automotive primer at almost any department store or automotive parts store. I live on the east coast, so we don’t have kragen here.

-Vinny

My Website Macross Group Build

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Swanny

Member since
February 2003
From: Sandusky Ohio, USA

Posted by Swanny on Thursday, January 29, 2004 10:41 PM

See my site for modeling basics and Future info.

Swanny's Models

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 29, 2004 9:28 PM

Thanks for practically eliminating all of my troubled thought with weathering, Vinman!
Where could I get my hands on some Future? I live on the west coast (what that has to do with getting future, i dont know). Is decal setting solution advisable? And is testors or model masters model laquer-buff or non buff a good brand for flat/semi-gloss?
(whats better, buff or non?)
Whats a good primer, just white enamel? (i dont like painting with acryls)
I read that some people use automotive primer...does it retail at kragen, etc?
Once again, a thanks to all who posted on this forum!

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thevinman

Member since
December 2003
From: CT - USA

Posted by thevinman on Wednesday, January 28, 2004 6:08 PM

What looks better, and in the long run, is better to use; the chalk wash (mixing black chalk with water and d-soap) or the turp/oil method?

That depends on two things. If you are using acrylics as a base, turp/oil may attack your finish. I’ve seem turp/oil used on interiors that where finished in enamels (because generally speaking, enamels brush better that acrylics. (Most people brush cockpits or interior details). The two techniques also yield different effects, Turp/oil washes tend to give you a more, well, oily effect. If you want to simulate exuast or dirt, then I would use chalk method with water and a drop some soap and a drop of vinegar. You can also get different weathering effects using graphite dust, charcoal/charcoal dust to simulate shadows, exhaust stains…whatever your artistic inner voice tells you. Cool [8D]

And, do you apply these washes before or after the painting is done?

After the painting is done…kinda defeats the purpose if you’re going to paint over it… Confused [%-)]

You may be thinking of what is referred to as “pre-shading”. Simply put, it’s a method of painting dark strips of color along panel lines BEFORE laying down your primary color scheme. If you take your time and use light coats of your primary color scheme, the “pre-shaded” dark will come through and give a nice, yet subtle, effect of panel shadow/demarcation.

And, do u put varnish/gloss clear coat over that, or if u want it flat, use a flat clear coat?

Here’s my process:
1. Prime
2. Paint (Pre shade first, then primary paint scheme)
3. Clear Coat (I use Future, but you an use whatever you prefer)
4. Decal
5. Clear Coat (To seal in decals)
6. Weather (washes, chalking, graphite whatever…)
7. Flat or Semi-gloss (depending on the type of aircraft I’m building)

P.S. why do ppl paint black along the panel lines prior to main paintjob? Does this allow for the slight black to be seen at the panel lines, thus making the paint look as if it was "sun bleached"?

That’s pre-shading… Smile [:)]

And, won't primer fill the panel lines prior to main paint job?

Only if you spray a ton of it on! You only need enough to get coverage so you can see defects in the assembly and give “bite” for your primary color coat. As a general rule of painting, many light coats are always better than one or two massive coats. Have patience with the paint and it will pay off. Believe me; I’ve screwed up more than one model because I tried to get color coverage too fast. Wink [;)]

-Vinny

My Website Macross Group Build

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 10:31 PM

Thanks for the lifesaving info on panel lines guys, but i still have one more question;
What looks better, and in the long run, is better to use; the chalk wash (mixing black chalk with water and d-soap) or the turp/oil method? And, do you apply these washes before or after the painting is done? And, do u put varnish/gloss clear coat over that, or if u want it flat, use a flat clear coat?
P.S. why do ppl paint black along the panel lines prior to main paintjob? Does this allow for the slight black to be seen at the panel lines, thus making the paint look as if it was "sun bleached"? And, won't primer fill the panel lines prior to main paint job?
Thnxs for all of ure support!
|)()()/\/\ G;\/|=R

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maddafinga

Member since
March 2003
From: Broken Arrow, Oklahoma

Posted by maddafinga on Monday, January 26, 2004 8:06 AM

You'd have better luck posting your airbrush question on that forum, there are a couple of guys there who have a great deal of expertise. From what I understand, the HP-CS and BCS should basically be the same, but BCS should be a bottom fed siphon feed, as opposed to the standard gravity feed. I think gravity feed is a lot better, easier to clean, and you have more control and can use less pressure. Yes, double action is much better than single action. With single action, all you can control is the air, the paint is either full on or full off. With double action, pushing the trigger down starts the air, how far back you pull it determines how much paint you inject into the air stream. You get much more control that way. They are a bit harder to learn, but you can get the basic hang of it in an afternoon.

Madda Trifles make perfection, but perfection is no trifle. -- Leonardo Da Vinci Tact is for those who lack the wit for sarcasm.--maddafinga

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 26, 2004 2:04 AM

For a modeler who is just starting out, dumping $13 on FSM's How to Build Scale Models or a similar publication might not be a bad investment. This modeling guide is filled with tons of tips and techniques that would take years of trial and error to learn. Most of your questions and many more can be answered with this single handbook.

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lizardqing

Member since
July 2003
From: Dahlonega, Georgia

Posted by lizardqing on Monday, January 26, 2004 1:33 AM

Here is a pretty good tutorial on washes.
http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11687

Chris The Scale Firehouse The Lizard's Workshop

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 26, 2004 1:21 AM

This site explains what a oil wash is.

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1/001-100/TNT043_oil-wash_Johnson/tnt043.htm

Also go to http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com and click on tips & techniques.

Very good site to explain all thats needed.

Hope this helps.

Rudie.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

new to detailing: Washes, finishes, and paints, ooh my.

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 26, 2004 1:17 AM

What exactly is an oil "wash"??!?!?!?!? Censored [censored]

nobody seems to explain ANY basics of modeling ANYWHERE for the begginer...was all this info imbued into the minds of beggining modelers?
My local hobby shop doesnt explain anything either...now i was reading in the forums about applying artists oil to fill the panel lines....is this the "oil" wash?
If so, where can I get a hold of sum of this stuff, and what EXACTLY is it called (brand names)? I also read in sum modeling magazines that you apply polsishs/varnish like sumbstance after you paint a model with a mettalic paint (aka mettalizer, am i correct?) I went into my hobbie shop and found model master's non-buff and buff metalizer polishes...now is this the trick to getting that nice bare metal finish? heh, i tried painting bare metal using testors enamels and an reg. brush, but I can still see the brush marks no matter how much i thin the paint..is this frustration/marks normal for a brush? (why did they even suggest using a brush for models in the first place? Sad [:(]

). Whats the diff between unbuff an buff..aka buff must be buffed to achieve shine? which is better? And I also bought squadrons green putty....dried and flaked really quickly, but i mus say, it is tons bettr than testors....do i need to knead the tube to make it unflakey? Sign - Dots [#dots]

oh, and i know what i'm about to say belongs to the other forum, but undoubtably, you all have airbrushes, so i'll say it anyways...whats the diff between iawata hp-cs and hp-bcs? I went to dixie and other sites, but they all seem only to have the iawata bp-bcs....and is a dual action REALLY better than an single action?
Finally, Is primer neccisary? I mostly paint with enamels(going toget an airbrush) but i also want to paint wif tamiya acryls...need i apply a coat of primer for either paints? If so, would'nt i fill the panel lines? and for god's sakes, WHATS A BRAND NAME FOR A PRIMER? Where do i buy it?
p.s. whats bettr, model master enams or testor's? I saw "futura" being mentioned in the forums, what is futura?
Sorry bout the frequent mis-spellings in this forum, but I was pressed for time.... Sad [:(]

Your input would be VERY MUCH APPRECIATED
you can also email me at: Arograth@hotmail.com
thank you.

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