Filler Putty

James Mark

Member since
January 2003
From: Canada

Filler Putty

Posted by James Mark on Tuesday, March 11, 2003 12:19 PM

I haven't had much luck with filling seams....

I've tried gap filling super glue, Squadron fast drying white putty.

So far I find that the super glue is to messy (so is the putty) and the putty dries to quickly (the glue dries to slowly)

I've had luck on small gaps, but wing roots have always plagued me!

What is the best filler out there? AN old modeling friend of mine (now gone) use to use some green stuff....don't know what it was though!

WOuld be interested in some tips on what filler to use and how to use it....are applicators (spatulas) a worthy investment or is a toothpick ok?

thanks

James

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djmodels1999

Member since
December 2002
From: United Kingdom / Belgium

Posted by djmodels1999 on Tuesday, March 11, 2003 12:27 PM

I use milliput epoxy putty for that kind of gaps. It can be a bit messy, but since you can smooth it with water and fingers/tools straight after application, there's no sanding required... It dries rock solid faster than normal kind of putties. However, you need to have a sound base for application.. Milliput does not contain acetone that attacks the plastic and therefore does not melt plastic and does not form a joint the way liquid glue would (melting both plastic parts into one, in effect).

Another way is to use filler (such as Tamiya's) and smooth it straight away, or after it's become hard, with nail polish remover (and a piece of cloth or Q-tips).

I usualy use my trysty toothpicks to spread Milliput or the Tamiya stuff.

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upnorth

Member since
December 2002
From: Canada / Czech Republic

Posted by upnorth on Tuesday, March 11, 2003 1:21 PM

I agree with Milliput.

You can do wonders with the stuff, just have a bowl of water, some cuticle sticks and a few paper towels handy before starting anything.

I prefer the culticle sticks to toothpicks as they are sturdier and come with ends that are shaped just right for sculpting the stuff into contours, just keep it wet, if you put too much water on it, thats what the paper towels are for.

I try to minimize my use of the superglue filling methods. I find they're a lot more work than they're worth for the results that you get.

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James Mark

Member since
January 2003
From: Canada

Posted by James Mark on Tuesday, March 11, 2003 3:30 PM

I was looking on Squadron.com for milliput....

it talks about different grains (fine, medium etc.)

what should I use (and what does this mean?)

Thanks

James

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berny13

Member since
February 2003
From: Panama City, Florida, Hurricane Alley

Posted by berny13 on Tuesday, March 11, 2003 6:41 PM

Use the white (fine). It is a smooth paste like substance. It is the only way to go for modeling. It is much easier to work with and will give you a smooth finish. The others are too grainy and hard to get a smooth finish with them.

Berny

Phormer Phantom Phixer

On the bench

TF-102A Delta Dagger, 32nd FIS, 54-1370, 1/48 scale. Monogram Pro Modeler with C&H conversion.

Revell F-4E Phantom II 33rd TFW, 58th TFS, 69-260, 1/32 scale.

Tamiya F-4D Phantom II, 13th TFS, 66-8711, 1/32 scale. F-4 Phantom Group Build.

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djmodels1999

Member since
December 2002
From: United Kingdom / Belgium

Posted by djmodels1999 on Wednesday, March 12, 2003 1:57 AM

Don't weant to create an argument here, but I'd advise you to go with the medium one (it comes in a white box with red titles and trimmings) it comes in two components, one yellow-green the other grey-green, and the mixed product is light grey. Two reasons:

1. Milliput SuperFine (the White one) is more expensive... The red/white boxed Milliput is already extremely expensive in the US (as it's imported from Europe)

2. Milliput SuperFine dries MUCH faster than the normal one, leaving you less time to work the stuff and shape/sculpt it.

Always work with tiny amounts of the stuff. Mix it properly until it's color is very uniform, if not you'll end up with something that never dries... And yes, working with cuticles sticks is a great idea!

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berny13

Member since
February 2003
From: Panama City, Florida, Hurricane Alley

Posted by berny13 on Wednesday, March 12, 2003 7:32 AM

djmodels1999

You want get an argument from me. I like the white, but each should give his openion on the subject. If everyone liked/used the same thing, what a dull world we would live in. Opinions count in model building and eventually the modeler settles on a product or technique that works for himself. Happy modeling.

Berny

Phormer Phantom Phixer

On the bench

TF-102A Delta Dagger, 32nd FIS, 54-1370, 1/48 scale. Monogram Pro Modeler with C&H conversion.

Revell F-4E Phantom II 33rd TFW, 58th TFS, 69-260, 1/32 scale.

Tamiya F-4D Phantom II, 13th TFS, 66-8711, 1/32 scale. F-4 Phantom Group Build.

Reply

djmodels1999

Member since
December 2002
From: United Kingdom / Belgium

Posted by djmodels1999 on Wednesday, March 12, 2003 9:39 AM

Thanks, Berny. By the way, I use the white stuff too, but mostly for sculpting figures... Take care,

Domi

Reply

Hoser

Member since
January 2003
From: Foothills of Colorado

Posted by Hoser on Wednesday, March 12, 2003 11:03 AM

Mind if I throw in my $.02? I've always had good luck with Bondo #907 Glazing and Spot Putty. A trip to Wal-Mart and about $3 will get you 4.5 oz (a LOT). While it is made for 1:1 auto body work and is *hot* (thin with laquer thinner) I've never had problems even when applied to bare plastic (though I usually prime first). It dries quickly (+/ - 20 min.) and sands easily; glass smooth wet-sanding with fine grit.

For applying putty to large areas, try using spreaders cut from plastic lids (coffee, yogurt, etc). Check your fridge, you probably have several different thicknesses. They can be cut to follow specific contours, and when the putty dries just bend it to clean or toss it out.

"Trust no one; even those people you know and trust." - Jack S. Margolis

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djmodels1999

Member since
December 2002
From: United Kingdom / Belgium

Posted by djmodels1999 on Wednesday, March 12, 2003 2:07 PM

I can relate to that, Hoser, my favorite 'normal' filler is also an automotive product called Motip, made in Germany. It does not 'retract' as much as other modeling putty. But Milliput remains my best friend when it comes to 'delicate' operations!

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, March 12, 2003 11:49 PM

I have been using Tamiya polyester putty for a while.....it is rather expensive for the quantity you get, however.....$12 for a decent sized tube. It is a two part putty....a base and a catalyst. One product that has been recomended in other mag's and in quite a few "How to" books is Evercoat Eurosoft.......It's like a "Bondo" type filler. You can order it at virtually any auto paint/body supply store. Not sure of the cost....been a while since I checked last. I have heard a LOT of good things about it.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 13, 2003 1:31 AM

i've used the squadron green and white putty's for years. They work, are cheap, and there is no mixing involved. You just squeeze out what you need and then cap it. No fuss, no muss. I will say this though, milliput for sculpting and Zimmerit is by far superior.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 13, 2003 11:45 PM

The Squadron putties are nice for MINOR repairs, but they shrink REALLY bad.......I only use them for deep scratch type repairs and such. They're nice for that......dry quick and is cheap.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 14, 2003 2:20 AM

I'm a fan of Tamiya filler and nail varnish remover. Once squeezed out of the tube it dries very quickly but a drop of nail varnish remover every few minutes keeps it malleable and easy to work with.

For filling small holes or areas that are difficult to get at I dilute the filler to a runny consistency and drop it in place with a toothpick. It may take two or three coats to ensure proper filling but it minimises overspill and keeps surface detail intact. Its ideal for filling wing roots and those unsightly seams resulting from joining fuselage halves.

Bill

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midnightprowler

Member since
February 2003
From: East Bethel, MN

Posted by midnightprowler on Friday, March 14, 2003 4:20 AM

I've never had Squadron Green putty shrink. The trick is to put it on in light coats. I built AMT/ERTL's original Star Trek U.S.S. Enterprise kit, which need putty like mad, and also their more current cutaway kit of the Enterprise, and on that one I puttied all the cutaway sections to make it appear solid. Years later, no shrinkage. Light coats, left to dry well is the trick.
Lee

Hi, I am Lee, I am a plastiholic.

Co. A, 682 Engineers, Ltchfield, MN, 1980-1986

1 Thessalonians 4:13-18 1 Corinthians 15:51-54

Ask me about Speedway Decals

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 14, 2003 5:25 PM

i use motomaster(yes im canadian) red putty, its $8.50 for 450 ml's which is a lot. if u want some grey putty, use tamiya grey. its around $5 for about 32 grams. yes grams.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 14, 2003 9:37 PM

It's not really a putty, but I have had good luck with micro balls and super glue for larger gaps. For the small ones, the Squadron putty has always served me well (again like stated above, use in thin coats).

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cmtaylor

Member since
February 2003
From: United Kingdom

Posted by cmtaylor on Tuesday, March 18, 2003 4:01 PM

In general, I tend to muse Humbrol Model filler, although Humbrol have had stability problems, where the binder comes out of solution. However, leaving the top off the tube for 24 hours allows it to thicken up to a usable consistency.
It's like the little girl; when it's good, it's very very good...
Recently, I have used superglue with a fair degree of success. the secret is to sand it before it gets too hard - it eventally sets harder than the styrene!
For hairline cracks and pinholes, correction fluid works well, particularly iff you can get the solvent-based kind. It flows int the crack, solidifies in a few seconds and is easy to sand.

Hope this helps

Colin

Gentlemen! You can't fight in here; this is the WAR ROOM!

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 21, 2003 11:09 AM

I use "Bondo red automotive body putty" you can get it most anywhere,It's cheap & it sands and smooths out quite well. I used to use squadron green ,testor's etc 7 I find this works well for me. It comes in a tube & if kept sealed will last a long time

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 21, 2003 1:20 PM

use laquor thinner to melt spruces, then apply to the plastic. sand. repeat if nessicary.

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seaphoto

Member since
February 2003
From: Grass Valley, CA

Posted by seaphoto on Friday, March 21, 2003 7:02 PM

I have a page on my warship model website on the use of catalyzed automotive putty, such as Evercoat Eurosoft. It is wondeful stuff, you mix it up, and it is ready to carve in a few minutes (big time saver there) and ready to sand a few minutes after that. You can get a lot of work done in an evening using these products! They stick very well to styrene (we use them for structural reinforcement as well as filler), and can be mixed in very small amounts.

For very small pinholes, I use 3M acryl blue putty thinned with alcohol. This dries fast as well, but not as fast as the catalyzed products.

HTH

Kurt

Kurt Greiner

Interested in large scale, radio control warships? http://www.warshipmodelsunderway.com

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Keyworth

Member since
January 2003
From: NE Georgia

Posted by Keyworth on Saturday, March 22, 2003 12:05 AM

I use Bondo red glazing compound, but lately I've used MagicSculpt for seams and rought spots with some success. -Ed

"There's no problem that can't be solved with a suitable application of high explosives"

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, March 22, 2003 2:37 PM

I just got a tube of the Bondo red and so far I really like it. It dries very quickly and can be feathered out very nicely. It dries very hard and I haven't had any problems with pin-holes or anything similar. I thin and smooth it with acetone-free nail polish remover with no negative aspects.

M.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, March 29, 2003 11:10 AM

I'm going to put my vote in for Evercoat Eurosoft too. It is actually the only filler I have ever used but it really works great for me. No shrinking, sands great, what else do you need? :-)

Ray

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