New to building Static Plastic Models

nyre

Welcome to the forum.

I really don't know what to tell you except - Go For It. There have been a lot of models built with little more than a razor blade, some glue, some sandpaper and some paint. Read the instructions very carefully (at least twice, the second time comparing the sprue to the instructions so you know where the parts are). Don't remove a part from the sprue until you are ready for it (keeps them from getting lost). Just remember that the only person you really have to please is yourself. Just work slowly and carefully and have fun.

Thank you Qmeister. Sometimes the hardest part of doing something is actually starting it. I want to build a 59 Chevy Impala for my Father for Fathers day (His 1st car) I want it to look nice and like the one he had. Im 29 yrs old and disabled so I dont go out much to look for something in a store for him and I thought this would be nice and special for him. I also want to put #1Dad as the License plate.

I'd suggest reading the instructions thru once to get familair with the build, as well as identifying all the parts. Take your time. Don't be a perfectionist like alot of us are. We are our own worst critics. Have fun with it, and welcome to the hobby.

nyre,

What tools do you have to start off? What types of paints are you going to use?

We can help you through your build. But the key is patience and go easy on the glue.

Also remember to use the search forum function. There’s a ton of information on this site.

What type of glue should I use? The Set My wife bought came with this glue that has an orange smell to it I heard these arent the best to use. Im looking for something decent not the best as Money is tight.

I have Xacto Knives Set, I have a brush paint set with an assortment of gloss and flat paints which I will use for small parts but I want to buy Car Spray Paint in a can for the Body.

It sounds like you have the “non-toxic” type tube cement. (they usually smell like orange) That stuff will work, but if you can get your hands on some liquid cement. (The stuff specifically made for plastic models) that would be my recommendation. It usually comes in a glass bottle with a brush built into the cap or Model master makes a plastic bottle with a syringe type applicator tip. It costs $3-$5. That being said, you can still use the stuff you have no problem. No sense in wasting money. But, be careful with the tube stuff. It can get stringy and if you use too much, and it can get squeezed out of a seam, for example, and cause all sorts of havoc. Such as…you could touch the glue by accident and then touch the model and you'll have an instant fingerprint in the plastic. As always, have patience and use glue sparingly.

The paints you have should be fine. I’m assuming they are enamels. FYI – Enamels are toxic so be careful with the fumes and wash up after you are done. If the are acrylics, then they should be much less toxic and won’t have any fumes.

But, I would recommend getting some better brushes. You can get really nice brushes (sable hair or synthetic hair) at your local arts & crafts store for a few bucks a piece. Get two or three in varying sizes and keep them clean. They can last for years.

Also, you might want to get your hands on some sand paper. Varying grit sizes. You should be able to get excellent results with a range of 150 – 300 – 600 -1000. Example 150 is pretty coarse. 1000 is very fine.

Anything else on your mind? We are here to help. Have you started yet?

Thank you Vinman for your post. The paints I have are Acrylics. which makes sense since it came in the same kit with the glue.

What would I use Sandpaper for? Im assuming to file off the dibits from the individual piece holder? (dont know what to call them)

nyre,
The piece of plastic that the part is attached to in the kit is called sprue. Remove the part from the sprue with an exacto knife, cutting it as close to the sprue as you can. Then, using your exacto knife, very carefully remove as much of the attach point from the part. Use the sand paper to finish the job. (for smaller pieces, stick the sprue with the with part on it into a large (1 gal) baggy. If you don't take some kind of precaution like this, you will observe a phenomena (sp) all modelers have observed - namely the part will launch off your work area like a rocket, sending the part into the sixth dimension, from where it never returns. The sandpaper is also used to smooth the seams that will appear where two parts are glued together. Kits being designed as they are for manufacture usually leave you with seams on the model that aren't there on the real thing and you will want to get rid of them.
As far as the glue goes, If you use the tube glue, just be very very careful. you'll discover that when you put two pieces together, the qlue will squeeze out and the glue takes a lot longer to dry than a liquid glue, which increases the chances of something bad happening. Another thing that can happen is, if you get too much glue, is that the part will get deformed. Plastic glue works by melting a portion of the plastic, so that when you put the pieces together they become one piece (in theory).

Again, just take your time and have fun. And if you have any questions, don't be afraid to ask. (Remember, the only dumb question is the one you don't ask)

I think this is great that you are building this for your Dad.... nyre. Just remember to have fun building it. I'm sure your Dad will love it.

My 2¢... It is nice to receive a gift that has been hand built... what ever it may be. It shows that you took the time to care. (Not saying you cannot do that with a store bought item )

And who knows.... this may be the start of a great hobby for you. Just try to do the best you can... don't stress on it too much... and have some fun.

You came to a great place to get some answers to your questions.

Jim

Regarding trimming parts from the sprue, a set of side-cutters are very handy for that and give you very good control over the cut. They can be had for about $6 at any good hobby store. Or, a less expensive alternative, is a good pair of toenail clippers (since they are larger than fingernail clippers). These are usually under $2 at any drug store.

As QMiester mentioned, small parts have a nasty habit of disappearing off the face of the Earth. I like to trim them from the sprue as far from the part as I can. That leaves a little "Handle" to use when painting and sanding the other sprue mark. Of course, when it comes time to get rid of the "Handle" you still don't have anything to hold on to.

And, as everyone has advised, just have fun! If you mess it up, welcome to the ranks of true modelers

Thank you all for your tips I bought another Model just to practice with before I build the one for my Father. I know 1 model isnt enough but it is better than no experience. I built a Level 1 Prepainted Metal model (The Dukes of Hazard Charger) a few years ago and I did make 1 mistake I glued the rims backwards but as I know and you all probably will say we all learn from our mistakes.

Thank You again

backward rims

Everybody has made stupid mistakes.
I once glued my spitfire's front wheel to the back wheel stay while talking to 1 year old son.
It was funny though.

O yeah welcome to the forum.
Rudie.

one thing that you need to keep in mind when painting is: dont be afraid to touch up. I know several people who have tried painting their first time and they dofairly well, but they dont like to touch up. I consider myself a very good painter, but a strap on a figure may take hours to paint correctly. If i get the brown strap paint on the green uniform, Then i go over the brown on the uniform in green, and the cycle continues until it looks presentable. Anyways, its always more fun to spend time painting something to make it look great.

Thoroughly wash and dry your brushes, and dont spill any alcohol on your painted areas (it dissolves the paint.....!)

QUOTE: Originally posted by Robertomoe one thing that you need to keep in mind when painting is: dont be afraid to touch up. I know several people who have tried painting their first time and they dofairly well, but they dont like to touch up. I consider myself a very good painter, but a strap on a figure may take hours to paint correctly. If i get the brown strap paint on the green uniform, Then i go over the brown on the uniform in green, and the cycle continues until it looks presentable. Anyways, its always more fun to spend time painting something to make it look great. Thoroughly wash and dry your brushes, and dont spill any alcohol on your painted areas (it dissolves the paint.....!)

Excellent point Robertomoe,
This seems intuitive, but many beginners don’t realize that this method is how it’s done. There’s nothing wrong with re-touching and re-touching until it’s perfect.