Zimmerit Application

There are easier ways to model zimmerit than the putty route that you may wish to consider. You might check out Wild Bill's DML Brumbar build in the armor forum for more information on alternative techniques.

Regards,

Mark

Like Mark said, there are resin aftermarket Zimm sets being sold for $20-$30 and they really look great. 

If you really want to do it yourself then here's the helpful information.  I used the putty to create Zimm on old Tamiya Pz IV kit and I have to admit it was fun!  You will need a tool or you can use one of those saws.  I used this Zimm applicator set from Tamiya...

And I used 3M Glazing Putty.  It has fair drying time for about a minute or so.  You can buy it at auto shops.  Be sure to go for blue or white because they offer longer drying time.  I was told blue has been discontinued so white was the best alternative. I think I paid $17 but the tube is HUGE and it will last forever hopefully.

My first attempt applying Zimm and it wasn't that hard.  Just take your time and do small sections at a time.

Result...and it brought home an award from model show.  You can do the same!

I would do it again in a heart beat if time isn't a factor.  Next time I want to buy the Zimm tool set from Trumpter that comes in rollers.

Hope this helps...

Thanks for the tips Andy!

That turned out fantastic.

Also, thanks for posting IanBeginner - it's a timely post for me too.

I've got the exact Brummbar that WBill is building (have been following his thread), but after spending $$$ on the kit, i don't want to shell out the same again for AM resin zimm (for some reason, those little things always cost a fair bit to get Down Under.

I was going to use the tamiya putty and was going to look for a very small screwdriver to replicate the shaping.  Will have to see if i can find that 3M product you've shown.

Regards,

If you are really good and have a steady hand, a soldering iron can be used to simulate zimmeret, but this in a one try attempt. If you screw up, there's no return!!!

Personally, I would use a piece of styrene with triangular notches cut into it so I don't  do it with a perfectly good razor saw. Maybe it's just me...

After trying a couple of different ways to do zimmerit, I've finally decided the soldering iron works best for me.  Seems simpler. Takes a little concentration, but for me it beats messing with putty, zimmerit tools, or PE panels--- all of which I can use to ruin a model just as effectively as with my soldering iron. 

Tom 

This may be helpful - Check out Steve's (Crockett's) posts in this thread - /forums/p/72667/719270.aspx#719270

Awesome work

Tons of ways to replicate zimm. I have no problem using Squadron Green Putty and doing a small section at a time with a piece of sheet plastic used for making the marks. A small plastic or metal gear wheel from a clock or electric motor can also work to apply the pattern on the putty.

After looking at zimmerit up close on this video of a Panther G, [View:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SGtAqh7P4g], it seems to me that you could get the effect by using some kind of roller with blades on it rather than using some kind of trowel. Anyone tried that? Thoughts?

I build the Dragon models with the molded zimm and they look pretty good,I'm not going to spend big bucks on an AM set,but maybe need to try putty some day on a cheap kit.

I've never tried it (or built a German tank for that matter), but i remember reading on here years ago about someone using a small flathead screwdriver, after putting a thin layer of putty on the model first,  to make zimmerit.  That was a long sentence.

Tamiya zimmerit sets are not expensive (about $10) and easy to apply.

Looks like Crockett's photographs no longer have a like to appear on the thread?

A roller will produce too uniform of a pattern, something closer to a trowel application will look more realistic.

Decades ago a FSM article showed a zim. pattern cut from paper table napkins. Not in vogue now but back in the day it looked great.

Another medium is wood filler paste. Its water soluble so mistakes can be removed or the texture altered easily. Another benefit is it has a low adhesion to plastic so chips and battle damage are easily replicated.

I tried Millputt on a 1/35 scale Tiger II. Its more like setting bricks than spreading stucco, the results were too heavy of a layer and once cured its tougher than the underlying plastic thus very difficult to remove or change.    

I have used joint compound or spackle as the medium and the Tamiya trowel applicators and had good results. Zimmerit was a concrete type material applied via trowels in the real world. Not uniform, Sloppy, no 2 applications were the same so there is a wide berth for different ideas, especially armor weathering since it was all so unique for each vehicle it is hard to say what looks right or wrong.