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Using Pledge Future Question...

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  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by DoogsATX on Thursday, August 16, 2012 8:11 AM

I'm another "clear parts only" Future user...stuff's just too inconsistent and unpredictable for me to take a shine to as an actual clear coat.

BUT.

If you are airbrushing, and running into poor spray characteristics and gritty finish and so on, try cutting it with some Windex.

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Guam
Posted by sub revolution on Thursday, August 16, 2012 7:02 AM

Definitely dip first, as the Future serves two purposes:

Makes the tape peel off easier (no messy residue!)

Improves the clarity and shine of the clear parts. In other words, makes them looks more like windows than pieces of plastic. So you want to get the Future on those areas for sure!

As for me, I have tried the actual model clear coats, and I am not impressed. It could be I don't know what I'm doing, but I can never get a satisfactory finish with them, but the Future goes on smooth and easy. Then again, everyone has their own preferences, so try everything once!

Thanks, Budd

NEW SIG

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: back country of SO-CAL, at the birth place of Naval Aviation
Posted by DUSTER on Thursday, August 16, 2012 2:27 AM

crkrieser

Mask before dipping?  I think that's what you mean.  I'm asking out of ignorance.

 
If referring to clear parts- canopys, windows etc.
 
I always dip first so the coverage is complete over the item ( no gaps from masking)  then after the Future is dry (aprox 24 hours) the item can Be masked and painted as needed.
 

Recommend dipping as you first start to cut parts off the sprue;

 Put the dipped parts into a covered container to keep the dust from settling on -place a bit of folded paper towel in the bottom the absorb the excess as it runs off  and keep the part(s) from touching each other or the container.

Then let them dry.  When you have assembled the model to the point of adding the clear parts, they will be ready for paint or adding to the model and then as the Brits say "Bobs yur uncle" .

HTH

Steve

Building the perfect model---just not quite yet  Confused

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Springfield, VA
Posted by crkrieser on Sunday, August 12, 2012 4:47 PM

Mask before dipping?  I think that's what you mean.  I'm asking out of ignorance.

US Army, Retired

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Cameron, Texas
Posted by Texgunner on Sunday, August 12, 2012 11:49 AM

I guess maybe I've been lucky but I've never had any issues with Future, other than getting a really smooth non-grainy surface.  And that I attribute to my ability (or lack thereofBig Smile).  I spray ModelMaster and Humbrol enamels almost exclusively through my only airbrush for 25 years, the trusty Paasche Model H.  But, in the past 15 years or so that I've used Future for a glosscoat before decaling, I haven't had any issues really.  I'll keep my fingers crossed though!

Gary


"All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!"

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, August 12, 2012 11:25 AM

Cadet Chuck

Pesonally, i don't like Future.  I have tried it with various results.  It is designed for floors, not models.  I have had bad reactions between Future and other model paints and clear coats and decal setters.  If you are using it as a cheap substitute for modeling clear coats and sealers, I think it is false economy.  Let your wife use it on the kitchen floor.  That's my opinion and I'm stickin' to it.

Just about the only thing I use it for is clearing up blemishes on canopies and windows, but it sure is handy for that.  In those cases I am not using it over another finish, so there is no compatibility question. Future does have some compatibility problems, but then so do all hobby clearcoat finishes.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Saturday, August 11, 2012 7:22 PM

Pesonally, i don't like Future.  I have tried it with various results.  It is designed for floors, not models.  I have had bad reactions between Future and other model paints and clear coats and decal setters.  If you are using it as a cheap substitute for modeling clear coats and sealers, I think it is false economy.  Let your wife use it on the kitchen floor.  That's my opinion and I'm stickin' to it.

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: back country of SO-CAL, at the birth place of Naval Aviation
Posted by DUSTER on Saturday, August 11, 2012 6:40 PM

tcepilot

Can I let it soak in windex?

 
the longer it soaks the more and faster that  it will be removed....dosnt really take that long usually 
 
 
Future is an acrylic so the more cured (dried) it is, the longer the  time  needed to soak-or brush-or dab- whatever it off.
After it is removed you can re-coat and it's as if there never was a problem--only you'll know and you don't have to tell

Steve

Building the perfect model---just not quite yet  Confused

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, August 10, 2012 9:09 AM

I have airbrushed it, painted it on with a regular brush, dipped parts in it, and daubed it on with a Q-tip.  All seem to work- somewhat different effects, as others have said, but getting it on is not generally a problem.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    April 2011
  • From: Dayton, OH
Posted by tcepilot on Thursday, August 9, 2012 9:54 PM

Can I let it soak in windex?

-tcepilot

 

 

 just make a gif here

   

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Utereg
Posted by Borg R3-MC0 on Tuesday, August 7, 2012 4:09 AM

I do brush paint my canopies with Future and had no problems with that. Maybe this is because I primarily build 1/72 models and a larger transparant surface might show brush marks. But I never had that problem.

Brushing the Future on is my last step in the building proces, I use liquid masks and Future does not react well to those.

  • Member since
    April 2011
  • From: Dayton, OH
Posted by tcepilot on Monday, August 6, 2012 1:27 PM

Thanks all!

-tcepilot

 

 

 just make a gif here

   

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, August 6, 2012 12:19 PM

Ditto

Just like all the folks above said. I prefer to airbrush it on. It needs no thinning, and |I clean my airbrush with Windex or some other acrylic thinner or cleaner such as Gunze or Model Master.  Canopies should not be handbrushed or airbrushed, unless you want them to be less than crystal clear. Dip them, let it dry and cure, then mask and paint.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Guam
Posted by sub revolution on Monday, August 6, 2012 5:24 AM

I have both sprayed and hand brushed it. By hand it goes on much thicker, but gets a better finish, IMHO. DO NOT hand brush clear parts though! Best way to do clear parts is to dip them, then leave them masked until you are completely done with the model. My 2 cents.

NEW SIG

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Utereg
Posted by Borg R3-MC0 on Monday, August 6, 2012 4:40 AM

Here is a handy guide on using Future:

www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Australia
Posted by Blitzwing on Monday, August 6, 2012 4:25 AM

Yes it can be sprayed and cleaned up with Windex.

URL=http://picasion.com/]

  • Member since
    April 2011
  • From: Dayton, OH
Using Pledge Future Question...
Posted by tcepilot on Sunday, August 5, 2012 10:11 PM

What do I apply Future with to an aircraft? Can it be sprayed?

-tcepilot

 

 

 just make a gif here

   

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