Up scaling painting plans

Use Microsoft "Paint". Here is one, USMC 26349745:

If you are scaling from one scale to another, it is easy.  The scaleup number is the ratio of the two scales.  Figuring which way the fraction goes is done by figuring whether you want to scale up or down, then making sure fraction is larger than, or smaller than, one.

If you do not know the scale of the drawing, then you have to either determine the scale, and then do as above, or else make a short cut, and use a known dimension of the model, and measure that dimension on your drawing.  For example, lets say you find the wingspan of a model is S feet.  You measure the wingspan of your drawing, and it is X.  Divide S by the scale you want, say 48 in your case.  That gives you a new number, say Y.  So the ratio of X to Y is the ratio you need to scale your drawing by.

Not sure I follow this entirely, so I'll ask since I suspect that I'll be in a similar situation soon enough.

My scenario:

There are only a couple of images of aircraft Z-8 that I'm aware of. (one I've used for this forum avatar).

This image shows the nose art, somewhat, but is not good enough in pixels to accurately reproduce,not to mention the underside of the nose area vanishing. (cannot see the first few letters in Albuquerque)

Eventually, I will have to opt for some image enhancement work on the computer and rescale after completion or attempt to recreate freehand.

I've done some research on the "create your own decal" kits and paper. I'm proficient enough with many different image applications to get thru a recreate scenario if needed.

I am building a 1/48th B-29 which I will customize to be Z-8.

Any recommendations or clarifications would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Rich S.

Site builder of www.cooksontributeB29.com

Okay, here is what you can do to make your own decals from a published image.  BTW, I had an article in FSM a couple of months ago on making inkjet decals.

In a photo editing or art program scan and resize the image as needed. Increase the pixels per inch value to be well above the pixel count in the image.  I use 600 ppi at the final size.

Now add a new layer on top of the image.  Sample each color in the image with the picker/dropper tool.  Now use a fine paint brush to paint in the regions with that color.  That will cover up the pixels with a solid color. Most nose art and graphics does not have much shading. If there is shading, you'll have to select the area with that color and use the gradiant fill function.

If you have Publisher, you can do it fairly easily.

You'll need an electronic copy of your image or paint plan, on your computer--a jpg, for instance.  Open up a blank page in Publisher corresponding to the size paper you'll print with.  I usually go 8 1/2 X 11.

Use the insert button to insert the image into the Publisher document.

Publisher has rulers at both the left side and the top of the document page.  

Take a measurement in real inches or cm from the model, at an easily recognizable point--like the length of the wing along a panel line, or the width of the wing.

Now, using the ruler on Publisher, enlarge the inserted image at the point of your measurement.  This takes a little fanigaling/finagling and trial and error.  But once you've gotten the measurement from the model to match the measurement on the Publisher document, all you need is print it.

The rest of the measurements on the image will also be enlarged, at the same time you enlarge the one measurement you took, bringing the whole diagram into consistent size and scale.

Now, you can take the printed image and use as a full size pattern for the model.

From this point, take some wax paper and some masking tape.  Stick  the masking tape on the wax paper.

Lay your printed pattern on top of the masking tape, and use clear tape (I use strapping tape) to fasten it to the masking tape.

Take scissors and cut out the pattern.  The printed image will come off, and you can then peel the masking tape off the wax paper, and it's ready to stick on the model.

I don't know if these written directions make much sense, but I've used this system for years to mask the camouflage schemes for Spitfires and Hurricanes.

I posted some pictures of the process in the Spitfire Group Build from a few years ago, and if you do a search on the site here, you can probably find it.  Nevermind.  I couldn't find it, so I'll post it here.

This shows the four layers of 1. wax paper, 2. masking tape, 3. printed pattern, 4. shipping tape holding everything together.  When you cut out on the lines, your pattern will be on the masking tape, and you can peel and apply.

Good luck.

I did that a couple months to get the camo pattern for my Airfix,Hurricane so I walked down to the Public Iibary they did it for me on there big office copier. They tried several times and finelly got them made they worked great.               ACESES5              ON BENCH M60A1 STILL WAITING ON PAINT     IN MEANTIME CYBER JU88A-4

Gentlemen,

Thank you for your insight. One question on the end result Checkmate, how was the thickness of the applied "decal"? noticeably thick or spot on? Also, presuming you did not use a decal set application for concern of reaction btwn the adhesive backing and the set solution?

I don't have Publisher that I'm aware of...will have to check.

I have used Paint.net, Paint, Gimp many times in the past just to name a few.

Z Square 8:

I hope I didn't mislead you.  I was responding to the original post by Leo/zapme about masks for painting.  The method I outlined was for making masks for painting multi-colored camouflage and markings, not for decaling.

I don't think this method would work with decals, although I suppose you could tape the pattern directly to a colored decal sheet, then cut it out.  No adhesive would be under the pattern, just around the edges.

For printing your own decals, I think Don is the expert to listen to.

Sorry for any confusion this has caused.

oh, ok, Chkmate...no worries. I had interpreted that I would need to perform both processes since Don's process gives me a clean image to start with.

Don- thank you again for confirming what I suspected I would have to do. I will revisit that inkjet/decal article you referred to. I think that was one of the threads I perused earlier. If I have any follow up questions, I'll post them on that thread. This way the thread topic integrity will be maintained for future readers.

Sorry to all if I diluted this threads topic of masks.