Canopys and future - how to glue after dipping?

I read a hint a few days ago about using Future itself as a canopy glue. Pour some Future in a container and exposed to air to let some of the water evaporate until it has a syrup/molasses like consistency. Then seal the container and use when needed.

Don't know how well this works but its something to try that wouldn't cost anything!

I am going to try a combination of the methods, with a twist.

I am going to try out the Foam Safe CA I just linked to in that thread. 4 little dots of the CA on the canopy joint. Hold the Kicker microbrush near it to cure it. Then fill with Aleene's or Future on the rest of the canopy seam line.

Between being foam safe (less fumes), kicked (less time for fogging), and small quantity being used (less fumes again), I think we can get smooth and strong canopy joints this way.

Rex

Greg

Gary, that certainly does the trick. Thanks, Mate!

Good play on words re the hotlinks. Good looking BBQ!

You're quite welcome Greg!  I'm glad I could be of assistance. 

And btw, that BBQ tastes even better than it looks (he modestly proclaimed!).

Gary, that certainly does the trick. Thanks, Mate!

Good play on words re the hotlinks. Good looking BBQ!

Texgunner

 

And speaking of "hotlinks", how do these look?

Forget the links, I want the ribs!!!

Greg, maybe I can help you with those hotlinks.   You need to just paste your link into your post.  Here's yours:

http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder1.html

Okay, now, highlight it with your cursor.  Just drag across and it will turn blue.  Then, in the little control panel above your text, you'll notice that the link of chain icon is now more visible.  Now, click on that chain icon and another little window opens.  Click "insert" and the link should appear as an active (hot) link.  Give that a try and see if it helps.

http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder1.html

best regards, Gary

And speaking of "hotlinks", how do these look?

Last yr I had a problem with a finicky gunner's canopy staying together, so I experimented with several white glues. Tried every product mentioned in this thread. Even my trusty formula 560 (mentioned by mitsdude) failed. Finally broke down and ordered a couple things of Gator's Grip glue. Did the trick and I've been quite a fan of it since.

Having said that, my level of experience is low compared to all the other posters in this thread.

Far as I know it's only avail from the gent who makes it. Here's a link

http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder1.html  (Sorry, still haven't figured out how to post a hotlink here)

rookie 104

Do you scrape the Future off the edge of the canopy that is to be glued? I assume that regular glue will not adhere to the Future dipped part. Is this so?

 It's usually pretty easy to take a sanding stick and just sand off the Future along the edges. With smaller parts I just leave it alone and hope for the best, but with something larger like a canopy it is easy.   I like a secure bond and less worry of parts falling off and getting lost or broken.

On parts with frames that will be painted, I often (very carefully) use plastic solvent  (Weld-on, Tenex, etc)  to attach it, taking advantage of capillary action. 

I like using Micro Krystal-Klear. Seems to be a bit more tacky than the Testors product and it is easier to clean up the excess with a damp Q-tip. I stay away from the CA, Future dipped or not!

I've become a big fan of Formula 560 Canopy Glue.

In the past I have used Hypo GS watch crystal cement with great success. I stopped using it because the lid has this itty bitty pin that you have to stick back in the hole where the glue comes out. I had a heck of a time getting the lid on. The glue will keep oozing out until the lid is on. Meanwhile I'm having to attach/adjust  the clear part to the model. I was having to choose between wasting the glue or having an incorrectly glued clear part.

Foam safe CA is non-fuming and odorless. Haven't tried it on clear styrene so can't vouch for how well it will work. I have the Testor's Clear Parts Cement, Pacer Formula 560 and Aleen's Tacky Glue on hand. I'm sure one or the other will suffice.

I also use Testors clear parts cement, but I sure don't find it very strong. I have found NO white-glue-based cement that strong for gluing plastics.  For canopies it is fine- if they break loose it isn't hard to glue them back on.  But for critical joints I don't use white glue or the proprietary brands that are similar.

I  use Testors Clear Parts Cement. Excellent stuff. Although I have used Zap-A-Gap CA with no ill effects.

IMO Testors Clear Parts Cement is the best to glue on clear parts. It's very strong, dries clear and fills in gaps that can be touched up with paint.

White glue is good but I really like this stuff.  It's strong and fills little gaps that may require a bit of touch up.

www.testors.com/.../Clear_Parts_Cement___1_Oz.

Thanks a lot everyone - Your responses have cleared things up really well for me.

rookie 104

While canopies don't bear too much stress, I have had them come loose during removal of the masking tape.  But this is rarer than windows.  In both masking and removing masking tape from fuselage windows I have often had them come loose, and then rattle around inside the fuselage where they are unretrievable.  So I always use epoxy for fuselage windows (bombers, airliners).

White glue has worked well for me,too.  You can use Elmer's glue, or a similar product called "Alleen's Tacky Glue". It's thicker and stickier than Elmer's, and it dries perfectly clear.  No need to remove the paint from the surfaces to be glued, either.  You can get tacky glue at Hobby Lobby or most craft stores.

I use white glue to attach canopies.  CA can craze clear parts, Futured or otherwise, but it seems to depend on how closed or open the space is.  Apparently the crazing or clouding comes from fumes given off, as the glue cures.  If there is enough air flow to prevent the build-up, you can apparently avoid it.

But even styrene glue can give some problems, if you drip or smudge it.  That's why I like white glue for clear parts.

CA will adhere to future.  But, of course, the bond between the future and the canopy isn't the strongest.

Also, in spite of what others say, I HAVE had CA craze future coated canopies.

Hello!

I also used super glue several times on futured canopies and didn't have problems with fogging. I used the glue sparingly, though. Anyhow, that's what I always recommend for gluing canopies. Good luck and have a nice day

Paweł

It doesn't if your careful. If you load on the superglue it can still fog it. I use small dabs of superglue along with Micro crystal clear, just to help a subborn fitting canopy stay in place. I use Zap a gap CA.

I'd be interested to know if superglue doesn't haze the canopy.

Personally, I've always just set them down with white glue or scraped a little and used Testor's model cement.  Haven't heard of supergluing them, but would be interested to know if it's true.