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Painting photoetched parts

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  • Member since
    January 2013
Painting photoetched parts
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Tuesday, April 30, 2013 1:01 PM

I know this sounds like a stupid question but what is the best paint / method to paint photoetched parts?  I'm currently working on a 1/72nd scale Hasegawa F-14 Tomcat 'Black Bunny' kit that came with photoetched parts included. The parts are mainly instrument panels for the cockpit, rails for canopy, jet engine turbine pieces, and ejection pull cords. This is my first time working with photoetched parts. Any helpful advice is appreciated.

 

PS - I'm aware of a neat helpful trick on how to remove photoetched parts from the metal sprues on this site. :))

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, April 30, 2013 1:53 PM

I normally paint these parts on the sprue, especially the Instrument panel. I have found they can be brushed or airbrushed and you can use Enamels or Acrylics. I know a lot of people say you should always prime metal parts first. I never have and don't have a problem, but if you want to be sure, you could prime them.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, May 1, 2013 12:02 PM

I am one who always primes PE with a good metal primer.  I use a spray can (Krylon primer).  I prime the whole fret at once. If most of the parts will be a single color, as in many ship PE fittings, I then airbrush that color over the whole fret.  Then I brush paint any that are a different color.  With flat paints the PE parts are very small and do not show brush marks.  Even with gloss paint a very small PE part doesn't show brush marks with careful painting. It is unusual I must resort to airbrush for single PE parts.

BTW, even with a good metal primer I find paint adhesion to brass is not that great. If you have to bend any PE parts the bending frequently chips off paint.  However, it is easy enough to touch the small chip areas.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Central USA
Posted by qmiester on Wednesday, May 1, 2013 6:23 PM

A trick that works pretty well for me is to dip the brass fret into a cup of vinegar for a few seconds and then rinse the fret in running cold water.  That will etch the brass giving the paint something to grip.

Along time ago, we used that method to prep air tankers  for painting.  It was quicker than sanding (plus the FAA has a screaming hemorrhage if you sand on an aircraft for any reason other than corrosion removal!).

Quincy
  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Douglas AZ
Posted by littletimmy on Wednesday, May 1, 2013 6:34 PM

I soak the parts in vinegar for about 1 hr. then paint whatever color you need. enamel works best for this next bit.

Pre-heat your oven to  140 -160 % and cook the parts for about an hour.

This will cause fumes so get permission from S.W.Y.M.O.  

I have never had paint come off of a part treated this way.

 Dont worry about the thumbprint, paint it Rust , and call it "Battle Damage"

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: Denver, Colorado
Posted by waynec on Thursday, May 2, 2013 8:29 AM

as i paint with acrylics i prime mine with inexpensive ACE HARDWARE NOW primer. sometimes i paint on the sprue, other times after the model or the major subassemblies are together.

Никто не Забыт    (No one is Forgotten)
Ничто не Забыто  (Nothing is Forgotten)

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
Posted by Chili on Friday, May 3, 2013 11:03 AM

Does dipping the photoetched parts in vinegar erase the part numbers onthe frets?

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Douglas AZ
Posted by littletimmy on Friday, May 3, 2013 7:28 PM

Not if the numbers are etched on the fret

 Dont worry about the thumbprint, paint it Rust , and call it "Battle Damage"

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