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Weathering order-Washes/pigments/sealing

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  • Member since
    July 2012
Weathering order-Washes/pigments/sealing
Posted by Ruse13 on Saturday, January 25, 2014 5:38 AM

I am fairly new to using washes and pigments and am at the stage in my current build where I am starting to weather the model. I used Tamiya acrylic paint, did a coat of future, decals, future, wash (Mig).....now my question is 1. do I have to seal the model with something else before I apply pigments (Mig)? 2. If I don't can I or should I still use the same solvent to apply the pigments? 3. What do I use to seal the model after completion of washes and pigments?

Any help would be appreciated.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, January 25, 2014 9:49 AM

Things like pigments are a fairly advanced technique.  There are so many combinations that it is hard to give general guidelines.  Best bet is to make up a few sample test surfaces and try different techniques and order and see what works best for you.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Saturday, January 25, 2014 10:17 AM

Gloss, decals, gloss, wash, flat, pigments.- Don't seal the pigments.

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: Denver, Colorado
Posted by waynec on Saturday, January 25, 2014 10:03 PM

well this reply will raise some eyebrows but i prime, paint with acrylics, gloss just the areas where i am putting the decals, may dulcoat the results if silvering, usually don't with newer kits. apply artist oil washes then pastels. no final coat.

Никто не Забыт    (No one is Forgotten)
Ничто не Забыто  (Nothing is Forgotten)

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, January 26, 2014 11:29 AM

The mention of dry brushing catches my eye. It is an old technique, and doesn't get the press or comments of newer things like dot filters and such.  But well done dry brushing  sure can give a lot of nice weathering effects. I also use dry brush to get steel color for bare steel.  You can get a lot of different metal patinas with dry brush.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Smithers, BC, Canada
Posted by ruddratt on Thursday, January 30, 2014 12:33 AM

Don, most of my metal effects (like for gunmetals or to depict wear) are done with drybrushing, usually a mix of Testors silver and an oil, like burnt umber.  No other method has worked as well for me in these areas.

Mike

 "We have our own ammunition. It's filled with paint. When we fire it, it makes pretty pictures....scares the hell outta people."

 

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