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Bare metal foil

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  • Member since
    July 2013
Bare metal foil
Posted by cane014 on Friday, February 7, 2014 12:41 AM
How do you bare metal foil a model, how to attach it to the model, keep it smoth etc, etc. Thank you. Cane.
  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Friday, February 7, 2014 1:52 AM

Easy, you just don't lead them so much - was my first thought... But seriously - you definitely need some practice, so try on scrap first. Cut a piece bigger than the area you want to cover and start in the middle. With a piece of tissue rub the foil down in gentle circling motion. Conceal the edges of the area you're covering in corners or panel lines. You can use a toothpick to get the foil down panel lines or other small details - do it gently and the foil will stretch and allow you to go around uneven surfaces and details.

Hope it helps - welcome to the forums and good luck with your projects, have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Hatfield
Posted by Misty on Friday, February 7, 2014 3:04 AM

and make sure you cut it with a fresh SHARP blade. i burnish it down with a cotton bud , not a soft johnsons baby one but a harder tamiya one, and form it round details with a blunt smooth piece of wood if needed.

  • Member since
    November 2006
Posted by Bearcat57 on Friday, February 7, 2014 6:59 AM
I doff my hat to you guys who can cover an entire model with BMF. I'm only able to use it for small, flat sections...just never got the hang of getting the stuff around curves and what not. I use it primarily for masking canopy frames (for which it works fabulously)
  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, February 7, 2014 9:34 AM

Very carefully!  Seriously, the larger the area you are trying to cover, the harder. For cars, when you are doing just trim strips it is not bad. Covering a whole airplane is daunting!  The secret is to cover small areas at a time. In airplane kits you have panel lines- do each panel seperately.  The thing about Bare Metal Foil that is good is that it is so thin that edges do not show that much- you can overlap edges and it will not be that visible.  So for compound curves, do it in smaller pieces and burnish down hard.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by cane014 on Sunday, February 9, 2014 6:38 AM
Thanks alot yall that helps alot. Is there a paticular type
of foil, thickness, brand, etc. Thanks
  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Hatfield
Posted by Misty on Sunday, February 9, 2014 10:29 AM

Just google "bare metal foil"  the stuff i use is from bare metal foil co.....or you can use normal kitchen foil and a suitable adhesive such as,microscale foil adhesive.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, February 9, 2014 11:30 AM

The Bare Metal Foil sold under that brand name is much thinner than regular household aluminum foil.  There may be times when you want a thicker foil, but when you need the thin stuff normal household/kitchen foil usually doesn't do well.

That being said, I should also have said in my above tips that for doing a whole airplane I much prefer to use Alclad rather than foil.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by cane014 on Sunday, February 9, 2014 12:30 PM
Thanks alot yall that helps a ton.
  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Hatfield
Posted by Misty on Sunday, February 9, 2014 2:29 PM

Buy the cheap and nasty foil, Don Stick out tongue the stuff i get from asda is thinner than bmf and cheap as chips, thats why i use bmf for awkward bits as its more resilliant to tearing but more expensive.

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Washington, DC
Posted by TomZ2 on Sunday, February 9, 2014 3:28 PM

Bare Metal Foil costs around $14/sq ft. A roll of “Super Aluminum Foil” from Dollar Tree, et al., a bottle of Micro Metal Foil Adhesive, plus a soft brush comes to under $1/sq ft.

Helpful hint: If you want to keep the variation of metal, avoid over-buffing! (I had to re-do one of the trim tabs on my NMF P-38J after over-polishing the different foils I’d carefully selected.)

Occasional factual, grammatical, or spelling variations are inherent to this thesis and should not be considered as defects, as they enhance the individuality and character of this document.

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by cane014 on Sunday, February 9, 2014 8:11 PM
I got a few models that became casualties of the great battle of the relocation of 2009 lol. Im gonna use the pointers from yall to practice on before i try to use it on the kit im wanting to BMF. Again thanks im gonna add this to the arsenal of techniques.
  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Sunday, February 16, 2014 8:44 AM

I did a Tamiya P-51 with aluminum BMF and was really pleased with how it turned out.  I did each panel with a separate piece and the nice thing is that if you rotate the foil you get a slightly different sheen.  To put it on I just cut a piece slightly larger than the panel and then used a sanded down toothpick to burnish it.  I sanded the toothpick into a rounded over nub at the widest point and was very careful to ensure I didn't have any sharp edges that might catch.  I use that same toothpick whenever I use BMF.  Once the piece is burnished down, use the pointy end of the toothpick to push it into the panel lines at the edges and then trim off the excess by running an x-acto down the panel lines.  The carefully pull off the excess with some tweezers.  It's tedious, but if you're careful the results can be pretty awesome.

Groot

"Firing flares while dumping fuel may ruin your day" SH-60B NATOPS

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