Ideas For How To Make A Part Removable?

There is a guy online that attaches his ordnance with 2 pins in each piece, and fits them in holes with an interference fit.

I wasn't sure I could find it, but, it was Dave Aungst on HS

www.clubhyper.com/.../attachingordnanceda_1.htm

maybe something like that can make your chest part removable?

Rex

Hello!

There are many options - one of them would be to put magnets there, for clean and continued removability, so to say. On the other side of the spectrum is the solution, where you glue the cover using 2 - 3 tiny drops of CA/Super glue - you really want only small sopts to hold - which is strong enough to keep the parts in place, but it can be easily pried off when necessary. After the surgery just clean the spots and reapply tiny spots of glue again. Hope it helps, good luck with your project

Paweł

I would either use Rubber cement or Aleen's Tacky glue. I use rubber cement on parts that need to be popped off after painting. Be a bit careful with Aleen's, although it's a white glue use it sparingly because it has a very strong bond.

Maybe don't use a glue at all, but something else with some tack to it, like some kind of sealant. Perhaps use a clear silicone caulk, not adhesive silicone, just the sealant stuff. GE's Silicone II bathroom caulk might do it, and the part would be pretty easy to pry off, I think. I don't know if any chemicals in the silicone would hurt the plastic over time, though. If you're worried about that, maybe just use some of the water-based white caulk.

I sometimes use poster tack, like blue tack, to make removable parts.  I usually do this for painting, when I want to paint a part in place in an assembly but remove to insert other parts after painting, but it should work for your application too.  I use it a lot for doors that I will display open, but need to have closed while painting to keep exterior paint out of insides.

Try looking at some of the silicone sealers - some are really flexible and 'dry' clear.

Little round magnets (Disc-shaped) work very well  for holding on engine cowlings and other parts on Tamiya's 1/32 P-51.  But you would have to drill little, very shallow holes to hold them. It would be tricky work.

Thanks guys for the suggestions.  Some very clever ideas above.

I am leaning towards using either a few tiny drops of Super Glue or perhaps a light application of Aleene's Tacky Glue (or similar) for this purpose.

I've actually never used the Aleene's Tacky Glue before, though my understanding is it is essentially just a stronger white glue, that will also set faster than the standard Elmer's.  Is that correct?

Also, to those who have used it, is it similar to white glue in that it dries clear, cleans up easily with water and will not harm the painted surface if some of it accidentally gets onto it?

Last, how much of the Tacky would you suggest I use so that it will still be removable?  A few drops along the way, or a light continuous bead?  All told, the area to be glued is approx. 1" on either side of the torso, and then maybe another 1/2" on either side above the shoulders.

I suppose if I used too much, I could always cut carefully into the seam with an X-Acto to separate the part.

-Kizzy

Kizzy, I have never seen the kit you are working on and not sure how much room you may have to play with.  I am mostly an automotive modeler and wondered, could you hinge the part like we do doors?  If you had space to fab up a wire and tube hinge, along with some tiny magnets as mentioned earlier, you might have the part operate like we do doors on cars.  It opens and is held shut with the mag.  

I kind of like that idea, though it might be a bit elaborate for my needs.  I probably won't need to access the inside too often, so I'm happy going with a semi-permanent gluing method if one will work.

Here is a scan of the instruction sheet for the part in question though, to provide a visual.

Thanks again to all who have replied thus far.

-Kizzy

Like I said, Aleene's is a very strong white glue so use it sparingly as in a couple of spots to hold the part (s). I use it all the time to permanently glue mall part that require a super fast bond. Use a scrap piece and test to see the effect. It dries perfectly clear and is has a very quick setting time. I would not use a continuous bead as it will be VERY hard to remove the part once it cures.

Thanks Plasticjunkie.  I think this is the way to go.  I'm going to pick up a bottle of the Aleene's next time I'm at Michael's.  Will be sure to test on some scrap first to get a feel for its strength and setting time.

One last question -- there are several different variations of this product.  Should I just get the "Original" Tacky Glue in the gold bottle?  There is also a "Fast Grab" variety, which might be preferable in my case.

-Kizzy

I have only used the "original" and it works fine.  Don't know about "Fast Grab" version.

By the way, I have an old wooden "Pinnochio" doll that belonged to my mother from about 1940.  The rubber bands lasted about 50 years, before they had to be replaced, so maybe you don't have to worry about this too much!

Wow...50 years!   I guess they don't make 'em like they used to.  

Reading reviews around the Internet of others who have built this kit, many have commented how the rubber band broke after a while, causing the arms and head to go slack.  In any case it would probably be a good idea to substitute a more durable rubber band for the stock one.

-Kizzy

Kizzy

I like the fast tacky one cause it grabs super fast and doesn't run or sag.

Chuck

Those rubber bands lasted so long because they were made in the good'ol USA  when things were made to last, unlike all the crap made in China now that breaks if you sneeze too hard!

Went to Michael's tonight and picked up a small bottle of Aleene's "Fast Grab" Tacky Glue. Very inexpensive (only about 2 bucks with coupon). It does feel quite tacky to the touch out of the bottle, much more so than your standard white glue, so I can see what they mean by "fast grab".  I expect a few well-placed drops of this stuff should do the trick.

Cheers,

Kizzy

Why not use a small screw hidden behind the round detail on his chest plate?

Maybe you could put some talcum powder on the rubberband, that should last it longer.

As for the glue question, I would use Elmers, the chest plate does not have any weight on it so Elmers will keep it in place without permanently fixing it.

Find some rare earth magnets, as little as $3 for per set of 2 at Radio Shack Google Rare Earth Magnets for other sources.  Wargaming figures sometimes come with these and they may be available at a wargaming store. These are super strong. Delete the rubber band completely. Make a plastic plugs for the shoulder joints, 1 for each arm and 1 each for each side of the chest assembly. Super glue a magnet to each pug on the interior side, making sure you have the right polarity. Assemble the arms and chest with the plugs in place,  Voila! totally movable and removable arms.

Just a quick follow-up, as I've finally completed my model of C-3PO.  I went with the Aleene's tacky glue for attaching the chest piece to the body so as to make it semi-permanent / removable.  I applied a very thin bead along the contact points, and clamped until dry.  This resulted in the part being attached quite securely, but also allowed it to be carefully pried off with some careful effort, without damaging any of the surrounding paint or styrene.  The residual dried traces of the Aleene's then just easily peeled off, leaving a clean surface on which for it to be re-applied and the part re-attached.  Great, as now I will be able to easily replace that rubber band whenever it inevitably breaks.

I'm actually quite impressed with how positionable the finished model is, the arms, legs, head and torso are all able to be moved to give a good variety of poses.

Thanks again to all who replied with suggestions.

Cheers,

Kizzy