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Landing gear trouble

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  • Member since
    March 2014
  • From: Cockeysville, MD
Landing gear trouble
Posted by JaySantos on Wednesday, April 30, 2014 9:04 AM

Hi

I always had trouble when it comes to glue the landing gear, no matter how careful I am it looks to me that they are never symmetrical or in the right position (look at example below).

To all of you that post such good examples of perfect construction, is there a secret? Or is it just a work of patience?

Any suggestion is welcome. 

Jorge

Tags: Construction

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, April 30, 2014 9:12 AM

Sounds like a good place to make and use a jig.  I would think a simple one made from cardboard would serve here.  Make one jig, use for gear on both sides. I frequently make up simple jigs.  Most common one is fitting upper wing on biplane, but also often make one to glue individual wings on low wing planes to get dihedral the same on both sides.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Wednesday, April 30, 2014 5:41 PM

When I glue landing struts, I lay my kit on a small piece of block of sort. That way the wheels don't shift/move while drying and sitting on the table.

The more I'm looking at your kit's landing gears the more I'm curious on how the landing gear ended up in that position. My guess would be maybe you glued them on and let it sit on the table to dry?

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Wednesday, April 30, 2014 5:42 PM

Maybe they're on backwards (wrong side)? Can't make out what kind of aircraft kit that is.

  • Member since
    March 2014
  • From: Cockeysville, MD
Posted by JaySantos on Wednesday, April 30, 2014 8:04 PM

Don,

I am going to try the jig idea, thanks.

Black sheep,

It is a Polikarpov I-16 from Eduard. Mea culpa, I did left it on a table to dry... I just tough it was dry enough. Big mistake.

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Two more pics:

This is why I like this forum, lost of good and new ideas to try.

Thank you again.

Jorge

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Wednesday, April 30, 2014 9:14 PM

Nice looking kit, Jay! I've done the same thing as you have - thought it was dry enough.  :)

  • Member since
    March 2014
  • From: Cockeysville, MD
Posted by JaySantos on Wednesday, April 30, 2014 9:38 PM

Thank you! I did learn with this, I think my problem is to rush by the end of the kit, need to slow down. Finishing a P-47 is next! Amazing the difference in size between this two planes.

Jorge

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Thursday, May 1, 2014 6:30 AM

I've done one P-47 Thunderbolt Razorback and found it was a fun build. I ended up giving it to my bro-in-law as a b-day gift. Currently working on my second one - the bubbletop for a group build.

I compared my 1/72nd scale F4-U1A Corsair to my 1/72nd scale S6B Supermarine seaplane. Wow! :)

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Wednesday, May 21, 2014 7:59 AM

I try to align the gears by sight and using a small ruler to check angles. I do this while the model is on its back sitting on two stacked rolls of masking tape that provide a cushion. I glue the gears on before painting and use Tenax or Plast I Weld to get a solid join. If you paint the join areas, the glue will not be able to provide a good bond resulting in gears eventually becoming loose. Once I have everything aligned and triple checked, its then left to cure over night without moving or touching to insure the alignment stays.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    March 2014
  • From: Cockeysville, MD
Posted by JaySantos on Wednesday, May 21, 2014 11:04 AM

Thanks Palsticjunkie for the info, can I ask why you prefer Tenax or Plast I weld for this? I only use Tamyia thin cement for plastic, what are the advantages for using Tenax? I have seen that at my local hobby store but never bought it cause I really don't know what is the best use for it!

Thanks

Jorge

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Wednesday, May 21, 2014 12:40 PM

Jorge

I use Tenax and Plast I Weld in a Touch and Flow applicator for the majority of my gluing. These two products when used in a Touch and Flow applicator will let you deliver this water thin glue to joints with pin point accuracy and melts the two matting surfaces to create a solid and neat bond. It also fills in most of thin gaps reducing the need for fillers and cuts down on sanding. For example, I have used Plast I weld on a snapped gear strut with out the need of extra strengthening with a wire in a drilled slot in the center. It just melts the plastic at the join making a very solid bond.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    January 2010
Posted by CrashTestDummy on Wednesday, May 21, 2014 3:52 PM

Those gears do look a little off, but make sure you're not worrying about nothing.  I mean have a close look at some of the different WWII fighters.  Many normally looked like they rolled on the tire sidewalls.  

Gene Beaird,

Pearland, Texas

G. Beaird,

Pearland, Texas

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Scotland
Posted by Milairjunkie on Thursday, May 22, 2014 4:16 AM

I generally finish painting before applying the gear, using small bit's of blu-tack to mask the gear attachment points. I do the same with the gear & assemble it as far as is possible before leaving it as one of the last thing to get done - take care when joining the wheels to the gear, as there is often room for misalignment between strut & wheel.

With the model on it's back I'll dry fit the gear to check for any issues & then glue in place & use lumps & "sticks" of blu-tack to support the gear, check alignment using a ruler, make adjustments if required & then leave overnight.

If the wheels have flat spots, lay something flat & light over then to check the alignment.

If I'm overenthusiastic when masking the gear location points with blu-tack (or cack handed with the glue), there may be some touching up to do, but it's usually not much if any.

  • Member since
    March 2014
  • From: Cockeysville, MD
Posted by JaySantos on Thursday, May 22, 2014 7:50 AM

Thank you all for your suggestions, I will definitely be more careful with my next landing gear and use the suggested techniques.

Thank you very much.

Jorge

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: St louis
Posted by Raualduke on Thursday, May 22, 2014 3:27 PM

Have you checked the hydraulic fluid,?

  • Member since
    March 2014
  • From: Cockeysville, MD
Posted by JaySantos on Thursday, May 22, 2014 3:49 PM

I did, it had low level and was dirty, I suspect there is a leak somewhere Wink

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: St louis
Posted by Raualduke on Saturday, May 24, 2014 1:32 AM

Better put in the hanger then

  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Silver on Wednesday, June 25, 2014 2:09 AM
90% of all kits have their landing gear not to the exact measurements.Just lay your landing gear struts flat on clean surface then measure from top to bottom and you can spot the problem.One strut longer or shorter than the other.One main problem is that the connecting hole in the wheel well is deeper than the other.This can creat big problems at contest.
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